The Amp Garage

Here's a site I use....

http://www.tedweber.com/webervst/tubes1/calcbias.htm

I second Phil S.....

You are using a bridge rectifier, so the bias circuitry is different. I had a similar problem with a build like this recently. I posted it here, and somebody chimed in with a working schematic for the bridge rectifier based circuit.

https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 9&start=15

Got it...thanks.

I'm trying Eagle to view this, and getting an error. What program do I need to view this schematic?

I'd use a hole saw. You can get them at lowe's or home depot etc. Not sure about 24mm, but a 1 inch (25.4 mm) hole saw is common. You attach it to your drill like a drill bit, and it has a small bit in the center for centering purposes. Drill a small pilot hole at the location of the center of the 2...

I print my faceplates on laminated paper stock at staples.

I always buy mine here:

www,jameco.com

Why not just put in a Meanwell 12VDC supply?

I set it to millivolts AC, and try to get zero. I found it too hard to hear the hum in headphones with all the background noise at my house. I usually experiment and move the OT around just to see what positions will give me a reading on my meter.

I've started hooking up to a multimeter (set on AC volts), rather than use actual headphones. That's seemed to work for me so far.

Those relays are pretty tolerant of voltage. I just run the 5V tap through a rectifier on mine. I don't bother with a voltage regulator.

I also bought a silver chassis and board set, and agree they are top-drawer. Not sure, but I have been selling a D-Style on here for the past year. Would be happy to hook you up. Super high quality. I can vouch for that too! I purchased a silver chassis and a set of circuit boards from Taylor for my...

Any way to check the tubes to see if they're good (without a tube tester)? Or is it best to throw them away?

Does this mean the tubes I had in this are also toast?