The Amp Garage

Hi, I’ve started my 50w build - it’s a 1987 bright channel switchable to 2204. Its my third amp build but I might use this thread to ask some questions as I go if that’s ok. I posted this over at the Metroamp forum as well but didn’t get a response, I don’t think it gets much traffic these days. I’v...

There’s nothing at all wrong with the conductivity of the chassis coating. Use star washers and steel machine screws (stainless preferably) the brass stuff breaks before I get it tight enough for grounding. I’ve used at least 40 of these chassis’s over the last 5 years and no problem. That is great...

xtian wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 9:57 pm You're getting good advice on TGP. No need to crosspost.

Haha yes u got me, yes but there are some awesome experts in here, I was also wondering about the chassis coating for grounding points.

Hi, I’ve finally commenced my 50w 2204 build, I’ve ran the heater wiring as per the VS instructions and was just hoping to see if someone could verify my wiring is all ok before I continue. My last 18w build I did I ran the pin 9 black wiring over the top of the socket instead of around like in the ...

Not as pretty as the ones with ears, but this will work, probably with a dab of hot glue where the telly blu-tac is to hold it in place. I can’t seem to get hold of the ones with ears in my country.

I also have one of these ones below (25k), I could solder the middle pin to the bottom ground bus, solder the left pin to the capacitor lug (which is also ground) and solder the right pin to the 47k resistor led. Thoughts?

The pot I have doesn’t have ears, it only has the three pins, pretty sure the middle one is the wiper. I’m guessing the middle pin needs to be connect to one of the other ones?

This is the one I have:

I’m about to commence my 50w build, and am not sure where or how the middle leg of the bias pot is connected on the board? All of the instructions and diagrams only show the two outside pin connections on the board but no mention of the middle leg. On the schematic it has the wiper of the pot (middl...

I use split turrets. I just lay the components in the split with the legs hanging over. I lightly solder each turret then cut the excess length. After trimming, I lay a nice solder bead on top to hold everything nice. I use the bottom of the turret to wrap the wire. Here’s a picture of a 2204 I bui...

Nice! Just a question - when you put the component legs into the top of the turret, how much length do you poke down inside? And if you only have 1 component to put in there, do you fold/bend the component leg in half so it makes a good/solid contact with the metal part of the turret post? Edit: I’m...

I've found using double turrets and wrapping makes an initially cleaner design that's easier to modify later if needed. I generally use the bottom for wire connections and the top for components. I’ve also seen where people have used perf boards they bring the underneath wire up through one of the ...

Found this also:

https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2 ... inals.html

Completed a 5e3 build last year with an eyelet fine board, am about to start a 50w 2204 build with a perf double turret board. I’ve read that wrapping wire and component legs around the turret 180 and soldered is best practice, but I see a lot of gut shots (nice builds) with the component legs poked...

Thanks for the replies, when you say all pF values as ceramic - on the diagram I have, the only ceramic caps in pF values are the bright cap and 2204 gain pot 1000pF, all other 47pF and 500pF are listed as silver mica. Are you saying it is better to have all of these as ceramic?

Hi, I’m putting together a parts list for a 2204 build (not my first build), and have a question regarding which coupling and silver mica caps to use: - Sozo next gen vs Synergy royal mustard? - Sozo 1000v silver mica vs other silver mica caps? - Nos Cc resistors in certain positions vs all carbon f...