The Amp Garage

With that said, could someone supply me with a Komet schematic via PM? Hearing that it's a ballsy Plexi, that sounds right up my alley, and it sounds like I've got the right parts.

If you have failed twice to build an amp with a certain layout and with many people that can help you, I suggest you not to go to a project with a custom layout and so on, but to keep on the marshall project. When the amp will sound ok, then go to the custom one. I successfully finished a custom bu...

So, I've attempted to build a Ceriatone 50W Plexi twice now, with the same result (not a good one). I've gotten to the point where I want to try something different, so I've thought about trying to build a TW Express into the chassis. The chassis has the big cutout for the PT, and 2 cap can spots. I...

It reads like a page off the Dumb & Dumber movie sequel. Too bad we never found out what it costed Ricky Bobby to get his amp repaired. Funny story is that Ricky Bobby is more or less playing with the person on HCAF. He knows better than to do this with an amp....he tends to bat people around over ...

My old Trinity Triwatt had that type of switch - I really liked it. It was intuitive, and saved space on the front panel. And the picture from AES looks right - as mentioned, one side is the 120V, the other is the B+.

One of my first builds was a Trinity Triwatt. DR103-styled preamp tied to a 6V6 based poweramp. It did the Hiwatt thing at a far more sane volume level. As has been said, they're bright (but not in a bad way - I find Marshalls to have more "peaky" stuff going on) and tight. Fabulous rock and roll am...

So, I posted a few weeks back about building a brown Fender, but I've since decided that I want to start with a tweed - I find myself longing for something with a bit more grit. Since I'm a home player currently, I don't really need a 5F6, so I'm torn in two directions: 5F4 Super 5E7 Bandmaster I wa...

Anyone know of a good source for parts (chassis, faceplate) for a Fender brown/blonde Super or Vibrolux build? I've been thinking that'll be my next attempt, and I'm sure I could source a blackface chassis and make it work, but I haven't seen a whole lot for cabs/boards.... I would do a BF Super, bu...

As a belated update, had first power-up last night. Worked on first power up with no weird issues - all stages are grounded independently, and the filter cap ground is tied to the same point. There is almost no noise apart from the sympathetic buzz from the fluorescent lights overhead. I actually co...

Another update - making slow but steady progress.

[IMG:799:478]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ ... AG0076.jpg[/img]

Hmm.....now I wonder if I could repurpose my West Labs DC30 iron for this......the B+ would be a bit lower (easily remedied by going to a SS rectifier), but the 4K primary on the OT would be OK for a pair of EL34 - only concern would be the wattage, since according to the Duncan tube sheet, a pair o...

Very clean build. Out of curiosity, where did you source your front and back plates from? Thanks Weathered I made them from 1/8" or so clear lexan(plastic) used waterslide lables from behind and spay painted...they look decent enough for rock n roll Darin I think they look great - I may steal that ...

Very clean build.

Out of curiosity, where did you source your front and back plates from?

Well, we're making progress. [IMG:799:478]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/EmoIsAwesome/IMAG0068.jpg[/img] The preamp tube sockets are wired. I had just enough space to get the whole preamp/PI onto the strips - if I weren't putting in a LarMar MV (which means that I don't need the 220K bias fe...

Have a Tophat CR at the studio.. umm.. you are going to want more late gain based on your description! It has distortion on the front end, but the backside of it doesn't do much to compliment any instrument I have tried with it. Have a '63 AC30 too. Breathes fire, no fizz. The CR is like a mentos/d...