The Amp Garage

Or could it be because I'm not using the PAB together with the OD? So much to try out when I get home!

mbeldyga wrote:

jakehop wrote:Just for kicks, I placed two 300pF from the anodes to the gates of both halves of the OD-tubes, as I see on some of the amps Howard made - no difference. Shouldn't that kill the oscillation?

solder these 300pF from anode to cathode, not to screen

Woops, that's what I meant.

Just for kicks, I placed two 300pF from the anodes to the gates of both halves of the OD-tubes, as I see on some of the amps Howard made - no difference. Shouldn't that kill the oscillation?

Hi guys, Thanks for the great suggestions. I've built a LOT of amps before. Been in the business as a builder and repairman since I was 13, which makes 12 years now. I guess my dad got me infected with this habit at an early age, lol! Anyways, I've narrowed it down to the oscillation, which I'm gonn...

Thanks buddy! I've tried every possible connection with the trim, volume and drive. I'm thinking it might be a connection problem. It has the internal loop as well - I've been A/B'ing with the clean channel and I don't *think* it's the loop. But to be scientific about this stuff, I'll try to bypass ...

As much credit as I give burn in for changes in tone, I don't think it'll cure my problem here.

The overdrive sounds like a misbiased tube, even though all values are withing spec. I think I'll leave it on till the next weekend, and see what happens. Any other advice is appreciated!

Hi guys, I just built a ODS-101, and i'm getting great clean-sounds, but the OD is fizzy and grainy, lacking the smoothness I've been hearing from these models, as well as the dynamics and sustain. I've recorded a clip. It doesn't show the great clean channel, but you can get an idea of how it sound...

OK, like 5 minutes on Google helped a lot. Sometimes you just happen to type in the right stuff and get the results you need! What I need is a "dimpling tool" - a kind of device that uses male and female dies to make the countersink. [img:708:756]http://www.vx-aviation.com/rv-9a/photos/Tools/tight_d...

I think that countersinking holes either requires some serious tools, or some serious know-how. I'm a learning-by-doing-or-perhaps-reading-stuff-online kinda guy, and I haven't been able to figure it out yet. Gotta do some studying. Anyhow, my enclosure had some mounting holes. I just used a piece o...

Hi guys, I have a question that's been bugging me for quite some time. Last month I had a customer who wanted me to build him "something to make the effects loop useable" for his Matchless (why they make their loops so useless, I don't know). I built him a D-lator. The 1U-enclosure I used had some f...

I would like to see it as well, please!

spam at jakehop dot com

Very informative and well explained. Great job!

I used the cheap, OEM 45W soldering station for 10 years: http://salestores.com/stores/images/images_747/SPC4004.jpg It was excellent, however pots took a while. I recently upgraded to a Weller WSD-81 and I've never looked back. I got a splendid deal on it, and everything from pots to chassis solder...

Hi Stanz, From my experience, the sound of the "Howard" comes from the preamp feeding into a very musical power stage with a huge Fenderish headroom. VVR might yield some interesting results, but I think it will compromise the dynamics and laid back character of the amplifier. Still worth a try thou...

Thanks John and Harry for your posts. Harry, I don't think that PS can give you the Plexi crunch at bedroom level. Just like with a dummy load, a bit reduction works fine, but clamping 50W down to 1W will kill the sound. And why? Because our ears aren't linear, because the speakers aren't linear, an...