The Amp Garage

I always imagined that the defective OT was arcing internally. It got worse and worse and then died.

I had a failing 1987 that sounded like this and got progressively worse. Turned out to be an OT. If you have a spare might want to clip one in to see if it fixes it. I don't know of another way reliably tell if it's bad.

Just in case you haven't seen this.

https://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/fender.htm

Assuming you have an audio taper volume, are you sure you wired it correctly? What tone stack are you using? The standard fender TMB or TB are pretty lossy. The gain/tonestack/gain/PI/power arrangement is pretty common. Shouldn't need attenuation to get a workable amp.

And the sad, sad end: U_j3ApbeICM ~Phil Something similar happened to me. I was using an old vc3112 that was falling apart for the chassis and transformers and switches etc. for a rocket build. Both were 4 cathode biased el84's so a pretty good match. I built the whole thing, went through the first...

...Wait, I think I'm getting what you have been saying. Thinking of a signal as composed of many frequencies, and phase shift being a delaying effect, it alters each of the components of the signal. They won't all be multiples of the fundamental and won't be 180 degress out when the fundamental is....

as long as both signals have no time domain factor then they will null if they're identical if one is out of phase with the other, it doesn't matter how simple or complex the signal is as they will both have exactly the same phase/frequency response if you think about it. It's easy to try, as I say...

...once you get to 180 phase then it is in fact polarity swap... Again, only at one frequency. Maybe in the context of a gain stage, but you can get 180 phase shift digitally by shifting the signal. Even in an analog gain stage you could minimize the effect of frequency dependent shift by choosing ...

There does seem to be a misunderstanding of terms leading to confusion. I think that some are thinking of frequency dependent phase shift, like what you get running a signal through a RC network while others are thinking of something more along the lines of two speakers who are driven by the same si...

I think most, if not all of the PODs are stereo output. You should really consider a two channel power amp. The time based effects are pretty flat without the stereo and the sound won't measure up to the headphones or direct output. Edit: I don't think there is any need to overdrive the power amp. I...

Hey I like fendery cleans and overdrive, which covers a lot of amps, but I also really like the characteristic tones of early Marshall amps both cleans and overdrive. I can't imagine changing the cf in that amp except as a goof. It wouldn't be the same amp. After all the cranked Marshall is the yard...

So I'm building a micro amp. I got a 125c transformer. I got it because the price was right and I didn't want to pay good money before proof of concept. I have heard off the shelf hammonds weren't all that great but this is a bit much I think. I got 156.2r on one side and 120.7 on the other. I'm no...

Hey guys, some recommendations please. I have noticed on the amp, playing through a 4x12 cab, I have to dial all the bass out. The knob is all the way down, no kidding. Might be part of the problem. Some amps are voiced for open back cabs and will sound very bassy with large closed cabs. The SRV fe...

Yes, PS modulation is part of the sound of a good amp. Not too much, but without it the amp sounds sterile and flat. Modulation is fundamental to hearing.

What's wrong with the standard bridge? I don't imagine it's the .7 V drop or a couple diodes.

What's the split cap wire on the bridge shown? Most I've seen are pretty straightforward, bridge to cap.