The Amp Garage

The more I have thought over, the more I am leaning towards changing it to have the separate masters for OD and Clean. The design I have seen the most for this is in the attached PDF. I have two questions on this; 1. Why is the clean master not connected to the ground bus? The outer (brown in this ...

…the CMF60s at 1w 500V should be fine right? That sounds fine, but do you have a link to the datasheet you posted? It seems to show much higher wattage ratings than the one I linked. [edit: found it, CMF series. Those should be fine. Even though 0.5W is enough for plate loads, I'd go with the CMF65...

I recommend adjusting the 3k9. Start by clipping or tacking another 3k9 across the one that's there and see where that gets you.

Here's a link to Dale RN65D: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vi ... b2kg%3D%3D
Not exactly cheap at $1.50 each for RN65D's, but you only need four for an ODS. The data sheet shows specs for Mil style RNXX, which are equivalent to CMFXX.

Matt J wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2024 3:35 pmWhat program do you use to draw your circuit board layouts? Corel Draw?

Now, don't laugh... PowerPoint. I've done faceplates with it too, just need to save as .pdf.

Do you know how they might have arrived at the screen stopper value of 22R? Most schematics of this model have 47R on those two sockets. My schematic glued under the hood actually has is marked as 22R from the factory, but it is sort of bold like they are pointing out that they had changed it. This...

I apologize for butchering one of your board designs in Microsoft Paint! No worries, but it's best to clearly mark the modifications. I was planning on using my phone as a signal generator later when setting the PI balance trim pot. Instead of running my phone directly into the amp, would it be bet...

bcmatt wrote: ↑Mon May 06, 2024 10:30 pm Just looking at the actual power section of this YGL:
YGL with KT88 screen VVR.png

Pretty similar to ODS. A branch from B+2 before the VVR could be used to supply the D'lator... I guess that's what you're thinking, and that's a proven approach.

Kudos for doing all of your own work on this!

Got a link to the data sheet for the RN60's you used?

This thread belongs in the Discussion section. Can someone move it, please?

**Moderator: moved**

I'm becoming quite happy with my other YGL-3a that was completely gutted and converted to an SSS... I'm feeling like this YGL-3a finally deserves a proper conversion to an ODS circuit. ...I think I am missing out without fulling embracing some ODS preamp and perhaps a more classic overdrive circuit...

Bought the parts that go in the Skyliner as opposed to the #124. Should still be a great amp No doubt, the #124 Skyliner version (that is what you mean to say, I think) is a great amp. The schematic and layout are here, https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=55006#p55006 with the first schemat...

award70 wrote: ↑Thu May 02, 2024 11:34 pm Here it is installed in my UTracer 3+. No leaks!

You are welcome, and it's nice to see it's installed and working! I guess you were able to find a bi-color LED that works. Separate LED's are also a possibility.

Are the two jacks above the T/N switch an external heater supply?

Raoul Duke wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2024 3:50 pm Am I reading this right?

Yes, I think so. Compare the eyelet boards .pdf. Basically, wrt the layout, the NO and NC's are swapped for "OD on" when the relay is energized.

Another common source of noise/hum is the loop jacks. If the switching contacts are dirty, you will get hum in the speaker. A good way to test for that is to put a patch cord across the send-return jacks.

Same person made a working CRT from scratch too.