The Amp Garage

Colossal wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:02 pm Glad you are still around Larry!

Me Too...

I've always wanted one of these cabs but shipping to the UK was $400.!! I've still not found anyone to make me one here in the UK sadly. M Although I haven't posted much in the last few years I still have been busy building cabinets Most of these have been going to high end players. On top of that ...

cbass wrote: ↑Thu Dec 06, 2018 9:57 pm yes its the way to go. better than dovetails and 10x faster

They surely would be faster, but why do you think they are better?

That's incredible. Was it stained at all or is that just the natural color of the wood with clear coat on top? Thanks for the complement. I like to mix and match stain colors. In my experience I like to use an orange stain on darker woods such as Redwood, Bubinga, and so on. The orange seems to hi ...

RJ, glad the cab made it to you in time for the show.
The cab did turn out very nicely
Here is a picture of the cab just after I finished buffing it..

[img768]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g268/ ... C09398.jpg[/img]

mhartman wrote:

rp wrote:I'd look into a Koa cab for sure

Oh man, if you could get Larry Mann to build you a Koa cab... That would be gorgeous.

I think that is a great idea...

Get a bunch of Koa and send it asap..
I would love to do a cab out of really nice Koa...

Hey guys
Thanks for the comments
Mark.. Seeing the pictures of your cabs bring back nice memories.
Hope all is well...

I built the cab for the Komet amp which is being discussed. It was originally built for a Komet 60 that I owned. I ended up selling the amp, but the buyer was not interested in the hardwood cab so it was sold with the original tolex cab. The hardwood cab was sold to Charlie Daughtery which was to be...

Every time I build a cabinet for a new style amp I make a plexiglass template for it. I personally use 1/4" plexiglass, but thinner material will work. The template is cut to exactly the same size as the chassis. I then mount the plexiglass to the bottom side of the chassis. Have it fit as exact as ...

If you want the joints to fit it is hard to beat big clamps. Here is a picture showing one of my cabs while it is drying. The cab has between 13 and 15 clamps. I would rather ober do it than have gaps in the miters. Another advantage to using these is it allows you to adjust the wood slightly so you...

Hey Mark,
I just found this thread.
You are a lucky man..
Get well soon...

I would have guessed that was dye, not stain. Its funny that the uneven coverage was not intended. I've been trying to figure out how you did it on purpose. John Actually the uneven staining was intended. What I was surprised about was the multiple colors that came out of the wood. When I stain a c...

I have to say it was a pleasure working with Mike on this project. And I also must admit I was a bit aprehensive when Mike told me he wanted the cab to be stained blue.. The cabinet is hard Maple and it absorbes stain a bit differently than regular Maple. Because of this the stain brought out severa...

I understand what you are saying..
The forum can always use an extra source for decent cabinets at a reasonable price.
Just out of curiousity, what wood were you planning to use for your own cab?

Again, good luck and definitely post some pictures of the cabs when you are done..

I think I could do one finished in the $150 range with faceplate no wood burning. If you can build decent cabs for $150 there will definitely be a market for them. I just don't see how you will be able to afford to sell them at this price. A Wreck style cab takes about 8 board ft of material. So ev...