The Amp Garage

I just got a DSL20HR and wondered the same thing. My first thought was single-ended parallel, but the cathode-biased + lower watts probably makes more sense.

Thanks for the tip on dissection. I'll see what I can find out.

Structo wrote:What value are the black ones?

There are several values. The guy has a maybe a couple hundred of the spragues. Same for the orange drops.

Thanks for the input!

I'm not much of a NOS cap fanatic, so I thought I'd get the group's input on the caps shown below. A buddy of mine ended up with a buttload of these and wants me to help him sell them. So, do these have a decent value, or are they just kinda "meh"? Sorry to be so naive. :oops: Thanks! [IMG:500:375]h...

The problem is that with a can cap, all the caps have a common ground. Single, axial lead caps can be wired in series or parallel, whatever you need, wherever you need on the chassis. A can cap limits you in that manner. I guess I just haven't worked on a project that required high-voltage, series-...

ChrisM wrote:The only thing I don't like about cap cans is you cant wire the "individual" caps in series.

Right. I guess that would be sort of impossible.

I agree and I have had no problems with grounding of can caps and no huming, buzzing or ghost notes using them. The 40/20/20/20 I have used in several builds the last being my Route 66 and that amps sounds great. Thanks! I'm glad I'm not totally crazy for not understanding what the problem might be...

I particularly like the JJ 40/20/20/20 can, since it's a whole amp's worth in one can. Whoa, I hadn't even seen that one. That's like the entire power amp filtering in a single can. I'm totally doing that next time. 8) I'm not sure about the meaning of previous comments about trouble with grounding...

skyboltone wrote:Ease of assembly I think. Neater underchassis look without tone penalty.

Thanks.

skyboltone wrote: When my current (large) stock of Nichicons and Xicons (yuk, those probably will be offered in the sale forum for free. ) are gone I'll be moving to cans.

Yes, but what is your reason for switching to can caps?

I've avoided can caps in the past because I didn't really understand why I should use them. It seems to me that the main advantage to can caps is that they save space, since two or more caps fit in one package. Also, with the mounting rings, they look pretty cool. :) What other reasons would anyone ...

I found that by the time I drilled that large hole for the punch stud I could just as well drill the rest of the hole with the step bit. :) This is a great point. For everything besides the tube socket holes, I'll just pilot hole > step bit. But I do like the way the punch works for the 7/8" and 1"...

Thanks for the tips, everyone!

But be advised... the sizes listed are for holes [Includes punches and dies for 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1-1/4" pipe and conduit, in a blow mold case] that will accommodate that size plumbing pipes. Ultimately, the holes are larger than that size. Exactly. A 1/2" conduit needs a 7/8" hole. The Greenlee c...

Harbor Freight has something almost the same for $25:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=91201

The issue is that the punch/die for the 1/2" conduit makes a 7/8" hole, and that's the smallest hole size.

I did a bit of searching here, and I see several references to using punches in chassis fabrication. But I don't see references to brand names, etc, or sources for the punches themselves. I see Greenlee has a cheap kit with at least one or two useable punch sizes (7/8"is the smallest hole size). Wha...