The Amp Garage

It's PCB-based. Seems well designed, but still PCB based. The OT isn't a proper 5E3 version but designed for BF amps. The PT is a BF version, way too hot at 350 V AC. Recto is a GZ34, too stiff for a 5E3. I've not tested it, but IMO this amp won't sound like a 5E3 and will fry the output tubes in a ...

All TWE 6.6K xformers are OK with EL34s as well as 6V6GTs.

Are there any benefits or pitfalls to using it later? Using // sections gives more gain (around 30 %, depending on the actual tubes used) with twice the transconductance (more dynamic response, better touch sensitivity) as well as lower noise and doubled current swing. Purrfect for a front end, but...

Anyone tried these? Apparently they are are just released, according to the E-Bay site I got this pic from.

They've been around for a while.

Too large glass for some amps, silly KT66-style base not compatible with bear claws... Can be OK - they are 6L6GCs inside.

Tech Caps seem to be made in Shanghai, China?

Used to be manufactured by UCC (United Chemi-Con), dunno about the current situation.

Any ideas on this?

The layo is for a very early build, the schemo for more or less the current version, which uses an Heyboer PT with a 290-0-290 secondary.

The Stout is an excellent sounding high gain variant of the classic 18-watt. Quite simple, easy to build.

Sadly the VTV is no longer made.

The Tube IMP mini TT from the UK can be a suitable replacement.

Any bets? Using 16V caps on a 6.3V AC source should be OK. But voltage ratings are only part of the specs : half-wave voltage doublers are very hard on the caps. C1 sees 120 Hz pulsating DC; C2 gets a lot of ripple. They should be fully qualified for high ripple and preferably be very low ESR models.

it looks to me like its made by WGS

"ASSY BY WGS" on the motor. The WGS G12C retails for $76, their 12LC version for $110, but it has been sprinkled with invisible faery dust.

Has anyone used this caps in a wreck style build?

Multisection caps shouldn't be used for new builds. Their noise performance is sub-par because of the common ground return.

Just use some quality radial caps, they'll work better, longer and cost you less; the amp will sound better.

So are the 19W 6BG6 guys closer to a 6L6ga or real 5881?

I'd say 6BG6s were 807s in octal guise, with a slightly different - and more fragile - screen geometry when compared to 6L6Gxs. 6BG6GAs were basically 6L6GCs.

OK, so now I'm a little confused. I see 7591A and 7027 are both marked as equivalent to KT66, 6L6 or both, depending on the brand. What gives? Anyone know for sure? The 7581 - not the 7591 - was sold as the "American KT66" but was much closer to a 6L6Gx construction-wise. The 7027 was a repackaged ...

The Sylvania ones sound just like their 6l6gc's. Similar wattage ratings too.

They are the same tube based on the 7581A templates and materials, with only the anode connection differing.

but boy these things are TALL!

You may try the 807W / 5933 / 5933S / P17W, a compact ruggedized version.