redshark wrote:Shaunf, congrats for starting with an express to be your first build. I did the same with almost NO electronic knowledge but it helps my roomate is an electronic technitian. Anyway I'm sure you can succeed!!
Thank you very much. I've read many build threads over the last couple of months and I'm sure yours was one of them, so thank you and others for sharing them and inspiring me.
Feeling like a bit of an idiot at the moment. I've just finished wiring all the controls and was transferring the whole lot back into their positions inside the chassis, and tightening the nut on the bright switch, when the whole barrel and toggle batton just snapped right off. I swear the nut didn't even feel close to tight yet. Damn, these things are fragile! Either that or I've been spending too much time on the biceps in the gym!
Anyway I just spent the last 30 minutes or so looking for a local source for a replacement. I think I found something, but it will only probably be here sometime next week. Bloody Hell! That is annoying.
Great job Shaun, I also chose an Express as my first build. I was curious what resistors were used for the external biasing points? They almost look like 8 ohm. My wreck doesn't have them but I would like to set it up with some.
Thanks
Erik
PRS, Gibson, Fender, and Teye gitters
Two-Rock Studio Pro 22 and Emerald Pro 50
Ekometti wrote:Great job Shaun, I also chose an Express as my first build. I was curious what resistors were used for the external biasing points? They almost look like 8 ohm. My wreck doesn't have them but I would like to set it up with some.
Guys, wonder if someone can assist me. I'm thinking of implementing the DC blocking caps to allow the VVR to operate down to very low levels, without voltage leaking back to the amp controls. My question is what voltage is one likely to see between the amps input and v1 as well as between the amps volume control and v1, as these are the 2 locations where the blocking caps should be installed. Would a cap rated at 100v be suitable for these positions?
Secondly, does anyone have any experience with an express, Vvr and blocking caps? I was wondering if these caps have any noticeable impact on the tone or dynamics of the amp as opposed to just having a Vvr without the blocking caps implemented.
Ideally I'd like to have the flexibility to scale down as low as possible when I want to.
The chassis has a large lip around the edge of it, which makes wiring up the tone controls in situ tricky. I flipped the chassis over and mounted them on the outside so I could use the chassis as a jig, in order to maintain the correct spacing. I also took the Dremel to the back of the pots in order to assist with obtaining a proper solder connection:
[IMG768]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/ ... G_1613.jpg[/img]
Looking great!! You ought to end up with a very fine amp there.
Don't forget to put a little dab of silicone between the bright caps.
I overlooked that and got some serious ringing at certain settings.
Thanks Dave. You can't really see it in the pictures, but I used a dab of hot glue to to stick the bright caps together, and then also glued both caps to the side of the switch itself to anchor them. Is that ok, or does it have to be silicon?
Another question - The diode strings over the power tubes - install them or not? My uncertainty stems from the recent thread on the subject, and I'd like to hear some additional views.
Looking very good Shaun.
For a first build it's outstanding!
I had the diodes on the output tubes. I clipped them out after the recent threads. Couldn't hear any difference either way, so I left them out.
Bob
Bob S wrote:Looking very good Shaun.
For a first build it's outstanding!
I had the diodes on the output tubes. I clipped them out after the recent threads. Couldn't hear any difference either way, so I left them out.
Bob
Thanks Bob. I think I'm going to leave mine off too.
Guys, please can someone check my logic for me here.
I see when wiring up the input jack, one grounds the shielding at the jack itself, and not on the tube side, which is all fine, and I understand the reasons for this.
In my case, I have a DC Blocking capacitor that will be installed in line on this shielded line, so how do I handle the grounding of the shield?
I was thinking that I should ground the shield at the input jack as normal, insulate the shielding and don't ground where it connects to the DC Blocking Capacitor, then on the other side of the capacitor, again connect the shield to a ground point, and then at the tube, don't ground and insulate the shield.
So with my shielded input cable divided in half by a capacitor in the middle, I would have the shield grounded at input jack, and on the output side of the DC blocking cap.
Does that make sense and if so, is this the right thing to do?
If I understand your question, could you just connect the two shields with a wire across the cap and ground the shield at the input side once? Both sides would then be grounded and connected as one shield with the cap in middle.
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