DIY Airbrake...
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
-
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:54 am
- Location: Stockholm/Sweden
Re: DIY Airbrake...
I don’t think you have done anything wrong as maximum attenuation is about -20db with a 16 ohm speaker load. That would equal about 1W with an input of 100W. Speaker sensitivity is usually around 100db which means that 1W will be pretty loud. This statement is from DR Z homepage. (The Air Brake has a "bedroom" level control that, when selected, will allow for fine adjustment and maximum attenuation down to 1 watt (with amps less than 100 watts.)
Mike
Mike
Re: DIY Airbrake...
Factory adjusted for 1.8 dB of attenuation each step and to change settings you loosen the sliders and move the first slider towards the out to speaker jack which increases the amount of attenuation in the number 2 position of the Attenuator control. This is the same for the other sliders.
Mark
Mark
Re: DIY Airbrake...
Position 0-4 is not my problem.I only want less volume at bedroom level.I will try to solder another resistor behind the rheostad.M Fowler wrote:Factory adjusted for 1.8 dB of attenuation each step and to change settings you loosen the sliders and move the first slider towards the out to speaker jack which increases the amount of attenuation in the number 2 position of the Attenuator control. This is the same for the other sliders.
Mark
More Bedroom for my Air Brake
Hi, I've finished my Air Brake yesterday and sounds great for me. But the "bedroom" is stil too loud for my only 5 watt epiphone valve special (I used also DIY OD-308 Monte Allum pedal). If I push it more than 12 O'clock of Vol. , I think my neighbour will kill me Can I put just a 47 Ohm 50 watt resistor between tap resistor and rheostat? Any experience?
Re: DIY Airbrake...
could i replace those resistors you all used with this resistores i found easyly here?
[img:400:250]http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture9 ... oduct2.jpg[/img]
the goal is to get the values by adding different resistor ('cause i can't regulate the value ) to a LORLIN switch
would this idea be VERY VERY Wrong?
[img:400:250]http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture9 ... oduct2.jpg[/img]
the goal is to get the values by adding different resistor ('cause i can't regulate the value ) to a LORLIN switch
would this idea be VERY VERY Wrong?
Soy de Chile y tu?
Re: DIY Airbrake...
Hi!
I built an Airbrake clone without rheostat and it sounds pretty good. Only last two clicks starts to bring some "fizziness" to the sound.
Does anyone else have same problem?
I read somewhere that someone put a zobel filter to his Airbrake to tame fizziness. Has anyone tried a cut control ála Vox?
I built an Airbrake clone without rheostat and it sounds pretty good. Only last two clicks starts to bring some "fizziness" to the sound.
Does anyone else have same problem?
I read somewhere that someone put a zobel filter to his Airbrake to tame fizziness. Has anyone tried a cut control ála Vox?
Re: DIY Airbrake...
Hey Guys
Ok, after breaking one of the Ohmlite resistors last week and waiting on my new order to come in, I finalized the Airbrake with the "final" settings noted.
I played it thru my Trainwreck Express with my custom closed-back cabinet, Les Paul (72 Custom & 06 Premium Plus) with a Celestion G12H30-70th Anniverary at 16 Ohms).
It sounds AMAZING! It does EXACTLY as it's supposed to and basically keeps tone all the way down and thru bedroom-levels! I'm not sure why people want to adjust attenuation TTY the truth. Maybe they want "whisper-levels" lol Well, I did use 6V6's, soo maybe EL34's is the reason!
Anyway, besides doing what its supposed to, I didn't see any change to treble roll off (at least with the system I was testing it with) and the bass stayed woofy and tight all the way down again! VERY happy! Thank you!
@richon - NO, don't use the gold colored heatsinked wirewounds!! I tried it and for you and let me tell you, after under 30 minutes, the CASE was soo hot, you did not want to touch it!! You don't want that heat transferred directly to the case. You want it to AIR and why the Hammond vented (top) case was chosen. The heat is thru air and out the top. I played for 2 hours at bedroom-levels and high attenuation and the "case" wasn't but maybe warm (90 degrees)?? Totally sustainable for long durations.
Robb
Ok, after breaking one of the Ohmlite resistors last week and waiting on my new order to come in, I finalized the Airbrake with the "final" settings noted.
I played it thru my Trainwreck Express with my custom closed-back cabinet, Les Paul (72 Custom & 06 Premium Plus) with a Celestion G12H30-70th Anniverary at 16 Ohms).
It sounds AMAZING! It does EXACTLY as it's supposed to and basically keeps tone all the way down and thru bedroom-levels! I'm not sure why people want to adjust attenuation TTY the truth. Maybe they want "whisper-levels" lol Well, I did use 6V6's, soo maybe EL34's is the reason!
Anyway, besides doing what its supposed to, I didn't see any change to treble roll off (at least with the system I was testing it with) and the bass stayed woofy and tight all the way down again! VERY happy! Thank you!
@richon - NO, don't use the gold colored heatsinked wirewounds!! I tried it and for you and let me tell you, after under 30 minutes, the CASE was soo hot, you did not want to touch it!! You don't want that heat transferred directly to the case. You want it to AIR and why the Hammond vented (top) case was chosen. The heat is thru air and out the top. I played for 2 hours at bedroom-levels and high attenuation and the "case" wasn't but maybe warm (90 degrees)?? Totally sustainable for long durations.
Robb
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:37 pm
- Location: USA
Correct schematics
Hi All,
I guess I board the train late, but here is the correct schematic for the attenuator on page 1 EXCEPT - as was pointed out - the jumpers are not installed on the switch.
I guess I board the train late, but here is the correct schematic for the attenuator on page 1 EXCEPT - as was pointed out - the jumpers are not installed on the switch.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: DIY Airbrake...
anyone know the part number for the 50 watt resistors. I want to save space and use it with 18 watt heads only. thinking of mounting it on the top of the chassis like the mini z and putting the 5 position on the rear panel. have one output jack for the attenuated side, and one for non-attenuated.
i think these are correct so far
D50K25RE
CK1455
L50J25RE
i just need the mounts and clips i suppose
i think these are correct so far
D50K25RE
CK1455
L50J25RE
i just need the mounts and clips i suppose
Re: DIY Airbrake...
there really isn't a layout i don't think, but you can see pictures on the proguitar.eu website
essentially resistors on both sides, guts and wires in the middle.
essentially resistors on both sides, guts and wires in the middle.
Re: DIY Airbrake...
for all those who are complaining that the bedroom volume is still too low, here's what i did that i think would help you.
i have the komet air brake. it doesn't have the bedroom level. instead it has a line out. i use the air brake as a load. and feed the line out into another power amp. it's the best way to get a lower volume. if you can add a little reverb and eq between the new amp and the air brake, even better.
i have the komet air brake. it doesn't have the bedroom level. instead it has a line out. i use the air brake as a load. and feed the line out into another power amp. it's the best way to get a lower volume. if you can add a little reverb and eq between the new amp and the air brake, even better.
Re: FYI on switch
I built the AirBrake (without the rheostat) a few years ago, and was really happy with it, but after I took it on the road a few times, the plastic Lorlin switch broke when something got loaded on top of the airbrake. I replaced the switch, but the replacement broke the first time we played out. So the airbrake has been in a drawer for a year or so. But I came across the above post recently, and even though that switch is $25, I decided to give it a try.danotron wrote:Found a nice switch to use....expensive but good...I was woried about how robust the cheap switch is so I went with this:
Mouser Part #: 633-HS16-2SN-RO
It just arrived, and man -- it's very sturdy, but it's a lot bigger than it looked in the little picture on Mouser.
[img:800:598]http://binrock.net/permanent/2012/0625_airbrake/01.jpg[/img]
[img:800:598]http://binrock.net/permanent/2012/0625_airbrake/02.jpg[/img]
It's certainly not going to fit in the existing enclosure. Heading back to Mouser. But I AM much more optimistic about this one standing up to touring.
Anyway, just wanted to post about the switch in case anyone else is considering it.
Dan
Re: DIY Airbrake...
Just a dumb idea but
If i was more concerned about roadworthiness than looks.I would cut the shaft on the switch down then cut a slot across the shaft.Kinda like hum balance pots are.You would have to change settings with a screwdriver or a quarter.
If i was more concerned about roadworthiness than looks.I would cut the shaft on the switch down then cut a slot across the shaft.Kinda like hum balance pots are.You would have to change settings with a screwdriver or a quarter.
Re: DIY Airbrake...
That's not a bad idea. I also considered protecting the knob with the same sorts of drawer pulls that they use a lot for tube-based pedals, like this:
http://www.synthtopia.com/images/Tube-Vibe.jpg
But I was also wanting to get away from the Lorlin switch because its datasheet says it's only rated for 150mA, and 50w + loads are surely more than that. Mine has been fine so far, and I see that many others have built AirBrakes with the same switch and are apparently having no problem, but I'd rather use a switch that's rated for the current I'm driving through it.
As a followup to my previous post, I considered a larger enclosure but didn't really want the increased size, so I went switch shopping again and found part number 690-C4D0206N-A. It's not much cheaper -- about $19 -- but it's significantly smaller, and still metal-bodied and rated to make or break 500 mA, and to carry 15 A. So I ordered that one, and it seems perfect:
[img:800:598]http://binrock.net/permanent/2012/0625_airbrake/03.jpg[/img]
[img:800:598]http://binrock.net/permanent/2012/0625_airbrake/04.jpg[/img]
So for future builders, I highly recommend the 690-C4D0206N-A switch. $19 is obviously a good bit more expensive than $4.50, but I think it's a small enough price to pay for a durable switch that's not going to explode into a shower of small plastic parts when subjected to mild pressure, like two of my Lorlin switches did.
Dan[/url]
http://www.synthtopia.com/images/Tube-Vibe.jpg
But I was also wanting to get away from the Lorlin switch because its datasheet says it's only rated for 150mA, and 50w + loads are surely more than that. Mine has been fine so far, and I see that many others have built AirBrakes with the same switch and are apparently having no problem, but I'd rather use a switch that's rated for the current I'm driving through it.
As a followup to my previous post, I considered a larger enclosure but didn't really want the increased size, so I went switch shopping again and found part number 690-C4D0206N-A. It's not much cheaper -- about $19 -- but it's significantly smaller, and still metal-bodied and rated to make or break 500 mA, and to carry 15 A. So I ordered that one, and it seems perfect:
[img:800:598]http://binrock.net/permanent/2012/0625_airbrake/03.jpg[/img]
[img:800:598]http://binrock.net/permanent/2012/0625_airbrake/04.jpg[/img]
So for future builders, I highly recommend the 690-C4D0206N-A switch. $19 is obviously a good bit more expensive than $4.50, but I think it's a small enough price to pay for a durable switch that's not going to explode into a shower of small plastic parts when subjected to mild pressure, like two of my Lorlin switches did.
Dan[/url]