Unmarked TRAINWRECK Express

[Yapsterino]

Hi Guys,
I just registered today and this is my first post. I am NOT an amp builder although I could have been. You see my friend died recently and left me what I've been told is a "TRAINWRECK Express Clone". Identified from the circuitry pictures I posted on Reddit in the DIY Tubes Sub-Reddit. I knew nothing about this amp so I inquired on Reddit and from the beginning I was told how beautiful and special it was. And how carefully it was built and then that it was a Trainwreck.

Guts GreenTweedHead.jpg

Here's my problem. I has no markings on it. No logo or stickers or word descriptors like VOLUME. This is a true SLEEPER that I am selling for the family and myself but I need to list it by name or as a something. I am asking members of this group if they remember someone building this type of un-marked no name 60's vintage relic clone of a Trainwreck Express.I am asking for confirmation and was told maybe one of Allynmey's builds but it seems he has not been posting for years. I was looking into Sound Kings Amplifiers now called Siegmund Guitars but no one has responded over there. I just want to know who built it? A person or company? More pics here>https://imgur.com/a/LoOTRY1

Front Head GreenTweedHead.jpg

It's 2 piece Green Tweed and Vinyl piggyback amplifier meaning it has a head and separate speaker cabinet. The only writing on it is the word BIAS on the rear panel. pictures

RearGreenTweedHead.jpg

If anyone knows anything about this help an old man out and comment. Thanx in advance. Bob

[pompeiisneaks]

I saw this on reddit myself.

I don't know who built it, it looks like great quality.

I do know that the power connector needs to be fixed or someone's going to get hurt. That thing hanging out like that is a recipe for disaster. Get someone to repair/replace that asap.

I don't know the exact circuit but it does somewhat resemble a modified version of the trainwrecks I've seen.

~Phil

[dartanion]

That doesn't look anything like Allyn's work to my eyes. This looks like someone's home-brew version of an Express with tube recto and looks like maybe HV selector switch for high and low voltage PT secondaries. Can't tell from the photos what exactly is going on, but chalk it up to being a home-brew of some sort. A thorough cleaning is in order and yes, fixing the IEC socket is a must before someone gets zapped with wall current!!

[wpaulvogel]

Trainwreck amps are from the 80’s and 90’s. This is homebrew. Value is in the eye of the beholder.

[Yapsterino]

Thanks so much for your input gentlemen. I guess that the only way you identify this amps origin is this. The person who built it or someone else that was close enough to have witnessed its construction, sale or some use actually views my photos here in your forum. Then of course responds and verifies. This seems to be the only way for now and if that never happens I'll live. I think I'll name it and label it myself and use this forum and the Reddit posts as my provenance because... that's all I got.
It will be fun and of course It will be called The Incognito Green Tweed Trainwreck Express Clone, Unless someone comes up with a better name. Then pick a font, print out on clear (or not) label stock and stick them on. But first I''lll take off the front plate.
I have replaced the power connector and cleaned it up completely and would like to even fix up the intentional relic work or relic-ing (?) someone carefully did to make it look like shit. While I'm at it, put labels like Volume ect. on them all. BUT I just noticed that the front plate was added on. If removed, may expose labels on the the original metal chassis or frame. OR NOT. The dark plastic looks to only be held on by the pots and the small 5 sided nuts with the knobs on top. Under this plate I am left with what is normally the public facing front aluminum frame which is really all that is needed but as said, this amps got one EXTRA ! or goes to 11 ! We will see..
I will keep you all informed and post pictures if it is anything more than the standard blank metal holder of knobs that it already is.
Sincerely Thanx in Advance
Bob

[ChopSauce]

A better name than (...) green tweed... might be (...) green tolex... yet the name only needs to mention "trainwreck (express) clone", in my opinion.

With respect to revamping up the thing, if you plan to sell it, I do not see the point of changing its look. If you could make it look like an orignal trainwreck, buy some fancy woodwork, etc, that could be a plus, but a potential buyer needs not have the same taste as you, and your expenses might add just a negligible value for him.

That being written, do what pleases you most, or what you feel like doing in memory of your friend (RIP).

Nice amp, by the way...

[Yapsterino]

After educating myself as fast as possible on all things boutique I've learned a lot in a very short time and you are correct. I'm not planning on changing a thing. I noticed that if it don't say TRAINWRECK (logo) then it don't say nothing. This seems to be standard among builders so me naming it might not be the best way of attracting TRAINWRECK lovers aka possible buyers. Also the chassis and layout are so classic and the form so identifiable that it is not necessary to put anything other than the knobs, switches and the light on it because if you own a TRAINWRECK you know how everything works. Except for me and those 2 rear toggles.
I must continue looking at hundreds of schematics. I have specifically been searching for something similar to mine with 5 big blue caps next to a row of 7 big and small fat orange ones and have had no luck. Seems there are either 3 or 6 blue ones or none.
Is there a possibility that this is a Liverpool or Rocket? Just asking because I wouldn't know the difference in layout or form or components used that would identify each specifically for use of one thing or another unless someone knowledgeable pointed me in the right direction. It's possibly an original but unless the builder lands on my post I'm guessing I'll never know. I'm hoping maybe I can get closer to what it's wattage is. Anybody have an idea how I can deduce its power in watts? Oh and those two toggles in the back. They are connected to everything but Yesterday I plugged in an SG and they did nothing I could audibly hear. Thanks.

2 switches.jpg

[pompeiisneaks]

To me the yellow wired ones look like a means of toggling between solid state and tube rectification. It's on the 5V supply to the rectifier tube. If the tube is 'on' then it has the 5V supply and is tube rectified. IF you turn it off, then the solid state diodes do the rectification.

I honestly can't see enough of the wires and where they connect for the one to the right.

It has blue/brown wires which are usually connecting the OT leads to the anodes of the tubes, but that may be incorrect. If they do, it might be a switch to turn off B+ to two of the power tubes like a 50/100 switch? But that's a wild guess with wire colors that could be wrong.

~Phil

[Yapsterino]

Thanks for your input. I just put a lot more pictures of the guts here >https://imgur.com/a/LoOTRY1. Click< Just scroll on down to see more.
Thanks in advance
Bob

[pompeiisneaks]

Yeah I'm definitely more confused now that I can see the photos that second switch seems to connect the output of the brown/blue wires to pin 6 on the power tubes. Pin 6 is not used at all on 6L6GC or EL34 tubes. It is usually used to connect into something else like a turret/eyelet. Otherwise I might have suspected it being some kind of triode/pentode mode on the power tubes OR an ultralinear mode where you choose to pull the B+ for the screens from either ultra linear taps OR directly from the same as the anodes...

But I'm definitely confused. Maybe it allows use of 7027 tubes or something?

I'm really stretching on that one.

~Phil

[Yapsterino]

At least you are trying. I have only one other idea from a friend who wrote this;
"One of the back switches is probably for power attenuation based on the third small PC board in the rear of the chassis and the good sized power resistors onboard".
He had no guess on the other one. And do you know why the 2 front power toggles would be 3 way switches?
Meaning up is on, center is off, down is on. But there seems to be no change. I really need to do some fine testing with my ears because every time I have turned it on so far there are noisy people around.
I just haven't taken the time for listening. I have great ears - I must say. If anything the bottom position may be less power or volume but I only slightly and I could be wrong. A bad guess but logically WHY?
Thanks again

[sluckey]

You are in a much better position to figure out those switches since you have the amp in hand. Just trace out the wires and draw a schematic. It'll make more sense than us trying to guess based on
a couple 2-D pics that don't clearly show the switch wiring.

[Yapsterino]

Good idea, will do.
Stay tuned

THANX

[Yapsterino]

I haven't looked at the board to draw a diagram yet but I have new info regarding these darmed switches. I learned that one of the switches is probably a rectifier selector toggle. One choice being the original tube design and the other being the tube bypassed and pointed at the silicon diode circuit.
The video is from the TubeDepot channel about a Marshal clone build of a JTM 45 Plus. It's cued to start where he explains it and is very short. The other switch could possibly a feedback toggle to suppress or engage it. Feedback that is. It's explained in the same video at 10:38.
This seems to be what I'm looking for which has been any amp with the same number and type of rear panel switches.
I will continue looking to find a closer match but this seems to be on track except different switches and mounting locations and a whole different Amp brand. Correct me please gentlemen if any of this is crap.
I'm new here but learning fast.
Thanks in advance
Bob

[wpaulvogel]

Vs. looking at how other amps are wired with option adding switches, confirm the operation of the amp you have. It’s possible the builder had certain switches on hand and used them for no purpose other than saving from ordering something else. Draw up a schematic for what is in front of you and then conclusions can be made for you have.