Assembling the wooden faceplate?

[Mark]

I finally sprung for the wooden cab by Larry Mann and it is up to Larry's normal high standard. The next conundrum is assembling the wooden faceplate onto the chassis without crushing the wood/lacquer and still getting a good contact on all the earth points.

Has anyone else done this and what tips do you have for having a good earth connection without damaging the wooden front panel?

Thanks for your assistance.

[sluckey]

I would use a buss for all the front panel grounds and not rely on the tightness of jacks, pots, etc to provide a good ground.

[RockinRocket]

I use normal Cts pots with the flat washer on the faceplate and tighten the nut. Doesn't damage the wood faceplate and grounds have a solid connection, just the way Ken did them.

[Mark]

Sorry for the late reply and thanks for your replies.

I'm using Clarostat pots and had considered looking for wider washers so the load is spread out more evenly across a larger area of wood. The earths are via the input jack and the buss across the four pots as you would expect with a Trainwreck build. The power switches will be tricky as they like to be tight.

[RockinRocket]

The power switches I use very thin star washers like what normally come with mil spec pots but fit the shaft of the switches.

[Schmirleroo]

Is there any 'long bushing' pots that are preferred?

[RockinRocket]

Supposedly Ken liked PEC pots in latter years. I've seen inside 10 or 12 Wrecks and never seen PEC's though I don't know the build date of all of those.
I have seen AB mid pots and Dave Funks build used a Clarostat presence pot.

If you have a original spec thin chassis then normal pots will barley thread on the 1/8" faceplate. Plenty of room for those pots if you can locate 5 thin lock washers that come on Mill spec Pots.