Noob wants to build his first Wreck. Request guidance.

[wpaulvogel]

Something that occurs to the output waveform once heavy clipping sets in is that there’s asymmetrical width between the top and bottom portions of the output. It’s said that the close proximity of V5 to the output transformer influences the tube because of the magnetic field of the transformer. I purchased a clone of an Express that had the transformers positioned on opposite sides of the chassis and the output transformer was distant from the EL34’s. It didn’t exhibit this behavior on the waveform. The transformers were clocked 90 degrees. The amp also had stability issues and oscillation occurred once gain reached certain levels. I changed wires from being reaching over the sockets in the air to keeping them snug to the chassis and this improved the instability. The amp never could reach full clockwise rotation of the pots but I found that full rotation wasn’t really needed because the sound gets mushy and just too much per say after 2:00 on the volume pot. The amp sounded good but until I built a clone with the original layout and position of components, the magic didn’t occur. Playing both amps side by side revealed the difference. Original layout is a little noisier idling but the harmonic content explodes and made me a believer in the not so optimal positioning of transformers. I don’t know if Ken intended to put things where they were because of testing or moving them or if luck and convenience located them from the start. I do know he never compromised any of the amps and wouldn’t release them until they were perfect. This meant picking through transformers and components until they made the cut. There’s a magic to the amps and changing the design will net negative outcome.

[gktamps]

wpaulvogel: I definitely concur with your observations and statements specifically for the Express and Liverpool, at least in my experience. If others have captured/retained the Express or Liverpool magic despite substantive changes to layout, components and placement, that's great, but I haven't.

Where I've found this to not necessarily be the case is with the Rocket, which is not as subject to negative effects from some variations in components and placement, but there are definitely limits. I have no stability issues with my amps even with switchable tonestack and PI modifications for toneshaping and added crunch. The underlying tone reveals itself when the guitar volume is turned down, then the more aggressive tones kick in with full guitar volume.

Here's one I'll be playing tonight with some other players. The two additions that do negatively affect the tone are the master volume and the VVR. I've not put these into any other Rocket since building this. You'll notice the full board and different placement of filter caps and other components; I haven't found this to negatively impact the tone of the amp compared to my traditional Rocket builds, but it was a huge pain in the butt and I'll never do it again. Ken's approach works.

Tatarian2017RocketFullBoard.jpg

Full_Board_Rocket_GTatarian.jpg

[Matthews Guitars]

I'll take your advice and keep the build as close to original specs as is practical.

Now the question is, there appears to be documentation for specific amps that are different from each other in several ways.

Which specific version would you recommend I start with?

[gktamps]

Trainwreck Files, Express Documents, first post.
Cheers

[Matthews Guitars]

I think I have every part in hand that I'd need to start the build. Except....my sheet metal shop's quote for a chassis was a bit stiff for my liking. 350 dollars. I've asked what they can do for a price break if I have them made in quantity. I figure that if I can get the price to competitive levels I could sell them to other builders.

More likely I'll just have to find a source for a lower cost chassis. Who's got them? Prefer a US source.

[gktamps]

Are you able to do the hole drilling yourself? If you can, and are OK with using a Bud chassis (same as Ken Fischer real TW) I have one available. You will need to make a bottom plate and decide how you will mount the chassis in your cabinet. PM me if you want more details.

[Matthews Guitars]

I'm handy with chassis punches and every metalworking tool. I no longer own a knee mill but I did for about fourteen years.

I've got a box full of every common chassis punch size. I can punch from 1/8" to over 2 inches so I'm pretty well set there.

But I'm also kind of lazy. I could just spend a hundred dollars or so and have one shipped to me from Modulus in the UK.


Unfortunately I'm in the process of losing my workshop. The greedy new landlord just boosted my rent by 72.3 percent effective 1 April (Same for all tenants) so I'm packing up and will be gone
and off to a new location if I can find one. And everything goes to storage if not until I have a place to resume work.

[Matthews Guitars]

Incidentally I started playing with the Trainwreck Express model in my Fractal Axe-FX II and it's the closest I've been to actually playing a real Trainwreck so far.

If it's a faithful model (and I'm sure it is, Fractal units are seriously good professional grade gear) then I know I'm going to love this amp when I'm done building it.

I'm not going to suggest that the modeller will fully equal the real amp, but it's going to be very close, as attested to by the fact that many national acts use modellers in their live rigs and they aren't lacking for good tones.

[wpaulvogel]

Incidentally I started playing with the Trainwreck Express model in my Fractal Axe-FX II and it's the closest I've been to actually playing a real Trainwreck so far.

If it's a faithful model (and I'm sure it is, Fractal units are seriously good professional grade gear) then I know I'm going to love this amp when I'm done building it.

I'm not going to suggest that the modeller will fully equal the real amp, but it's going to be very close, as attested to by the fact that many national acts use modellers in their live rigs and they aren't lacking for good tones.

Steven at Synaptic Amps has 17 x 8 x 2 aluminum chassis blanks listed on Reverb and EBay. I bought 6 of them and they are fantastic. The Buds bottom plate 17 x 8 fits these chassis perfectly. They’re about $50 each here’s some pictures.

[wpaulvogel]

Here it is.
https://reverb.com/item/2551614-blank-a ... 17-x-8-x-2

[pompeiisneaks]

I've used his chassis' two times now, they're great, I did custom sizes myself with the IEC knockout so I could put the IEC power connector in.

Love his work, highly recommended.

~Phil

[Matthews Guitars]

I've asked him if he can do the full punched pattern for additional cost. Either way I'll buy the chassis from him.

This project is going to take longer than I originally anticipated as I will have to move my shop due to the insane 72.3 percent increase in rent thanks to the nutcase that's my new landlord.

[pfarrell]

Any news with your build? How did the move go? Good info in this thread....