Nothing wrong with your ground buss like that... I keep scraps of 14/2 and 12/2 to strip out just for busses. I usually bend them and solder the end into one of those ground lugs with the teeth, exactly like the one bepone posted.
Like this:
Canadian Rocket build
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dorrisant
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
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"Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned" - Enzo
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
dorrisant wrote: ↑Wed Jul 13, 2022 4:54 pm Nothing wrong with your ground buss like that... I keep scraps of 14/2 and 12/2 to strip out just for busses. I usually bend them and solder the end into one of those ground lugs with the teeth, exactly like the one bepone posted.
Like this:
IMG_20220712_215513643.jpg
Your builds are amazingly clean! That's a great looking way to do the ground buss.
Re: Canadian Rocket build
What coaxial wire is that? Your center conductor looks nice and beefy.dorrisant wrote: ↑Wed Jul 13, 2022 4:54 pm Nothing wrong with your ground buss like that... I keep scraps of 14/2 and 12/2 to strip out just for busses. I usually bend them and solder the end into one of those ground lugs with the teeth, exactly like the one bepone posted.
Like this:
IMG_20220712_215513643.jpg
Just plug it in, man.
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dorrisant
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
"Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned" - Enzo
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Ok, I've got proof of concept for the Mod-Podge photo transfer for my faceplate. I did have a couple issues, so I'll need to sand it off and redo it, but it worked surprisingly well.
I couldn't find my J-roller so I just used a rounded object to smooth out the image but this caused a small tear. I continued on with the transfer though, just to see what other issues might arise.
For anyone not familiar with Mod Podge photo transfer (like myself before this) you basically paint on what looks like white glue onto your image (laser printed images apparently work the best). You then lay the transfer medium side down on your wood, smooth it out, then let it sit for 24 hours. After the 24 hours you take a slightly damp sponge and wet the paper and gently rub the paper off. By some sort of voodoo, the toner image has adhered to the wood below and the paper rubs away. Because I couldn't properly roll out the image onto the wood I was left with slightly thicker areas of transfer medium and you can see where my fingers pressed into it. The tear is another problem spot caused by no roller.
My main issue is the seam in the image. My printer wont allow me to print a single image longer than 14", so I had to print it in two pieces and join it together. I thought it mind blend together, but that didn't happen. I'll have to find a way to deal with that. Other then that, I'm quite happy with how this turned out. I'll sand this off and give it another go.
After 24 hours, just placed a damp sponge on one spot before taking the photo Beginning to remove the paper Pretty much all paper removed at this point What it will look like in the head cab
I couldn't find my J-roller so I just used a rounded object to smooth out the image but this caused a small tear. I continued on with the transfer though, just to see what other issues might arise.
For anyone not familiar with Mod Podge photo transfer (like myself before this) you basically paint on what looks like white glue onto your image (laser printed images apparently work the best). You then lay the transfer medium side down on your wood, smooth it out, then let it sit for 24 hours. After the 24 hours you take a slightly damp sponge and wet the paper and gently rub the paper off. By some sort of voodoo, the toner image has adhered to the wood below and the paper rubs away. Because I couldn't properly roll out the image onto the wood I was left with slightly thicker areas of transfer medium and you can see where my fingers pressed into it. The tear is another problem spot caused by no roller.
My main issue is the seam in the image. My printer wont allow me to print a single image longer than 14", so I had to print it in two pieces and join it together. I thought it mind blend together, but that didn't happen. I'll have to find a way to deal with that. Other then that, I'm quite happy with how this turned out. I'll sand this off and give it another go.
After 24 hours, just placed a damp sponge on one spot before taking the photo Beginning to remove the paper Pretty much all paper removed at this point What it will look like in the head cab
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
WOW!
That does work really well... gonna look great.
What about having the image printed at a local(?) copy place with bigger paper and avoid the seam? Would be laser too—are you saying that you used inkjet? If so, I didn't think that would work due to the water based ink sitch. Cool. You could also try "gloss medium" or "matte medium" they apparently work too—similar to modpodge...but modpodge comes in a lot of varieties these days—which flavor did you use?
Nice work!
That does work really well... gonna look great.
What about having the image printed at a local(?) copy place with bigger paper and avoid the seam? Would be laser too—are you saying that you used inkjet? If so, I didn't think that would work due to the water based ink sitch. Cool. You could also try "gloss medium" or "matte medium" they apparently work too—similar to modpodge...but modpodge comes in a lot of varieties these days—which flavor did you use?
Nice work!
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Thanks, I'm pretty impressed with it.
Just started looking into this and it seems like I can get it done quite easily. That will solve that issue.What about having the image printed at a local(?) copy place with bigger paper and avoid the seam?
No, I have a colour laser printer. I can even feed whatever length paper I want into it but it has some weird limitation to print only 14" length. I can't find a way to override it either. Apparently the photo transfer doesnt work with inkjet, it needs to be a toner based print.Would be laser too—are you saying that you used inkjet? If so, I didn't think that would work due to the water based ink sitch.
I used this one...Cool. You could also try "gloss medium" or "matte medium" they apparently work too—similar to modpodge...but modpodge comes in a lot of varieties these days—which flavor did you use?
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Hey everyone, it's hard to believe it's been a year since I've had time to work on this!
The Mod Podge front panel has been a source of frustration and disappointment. The Mod Podge I pictured above is white and makes for a fairly vivid transfer of the print but I've been unsuccessful at removing the paper backing without removing ink. When the ink rubs away it leaves the glossy white of the Mod Podge. I switched to another flavour of Mod Podge which is clear and I've had more success with it, however after 3 complete do overs I have still been unable to successfully remove all the paper backing without removing some ink. This version of Mod Podge is nice because the wood grain is still visible through the ink transfer but I lose too much definition in the print by the time all the paper is gone.
Needless to say I'm pretty frustrated with this process, so I'm going to ditch it for now and just do up a traditional woodburned front panel so that I can get this amp finished up.
The Mod Podge front panel has been a source of frustration and disappointment. The Mod Podge I pictured above is white and makes for a fairly vivid transfer of the print but I've been unsuccessful at removing the paper backing without removing ink. When the ink rubs away it leaves the glossy white of the Mod Podge. I switched to another flavour of Mod Podge which is clear and I've had more success with it, however after 3 complete do overs I have still been unable to successfully remove all the paper backing without removing some ink. This version of Mod Podge is nice because the wood grain is still visible through the ink transfer but I lose too much definition in the print by the time all the paper is gone.
Needless to say I'm pretty frustrated with this process, so I'm going to ditch it for now and just do up a traditional woodburned front panel so that I can get this amp finished up.
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Nice looking build! I use this stuff for PCB/faceplate toner transfers. Never tried it on wood, and it won't work with inkjet, but it is way more consistent than other methods I have tried. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Pu ... GifA%3D%3D
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Thanks Max, I'll check it out.
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Reeltarded
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Tip!
Two things.
Use plexi because soaking the item in water until the paper comes off with a fingertip is perfection..
OR
Use 4 coat sealer then sand dead flat before using the glue. Make sure the piece is sealed all edges front and back. You can be rougher with the water and never break the sealer. Clean up the edges if you need after the piece is complete and coated.
Looks great though, huh? It will be supernice when you get it right.
Two things.
Use plexi because soaking the item in water until the paper comes off with a fingertip is perfection..
OR
Use 4 coat sealer then sand dead flat before using the glue. Make sure the piece is sealed all edges front and back. You can be rougher with the water and never break the sealer. Clean up the edges if you need after the piece is complete and coated.
Looks great though, huh? It will be supernice when you get it right.
Signatures have a 255 character limit that I could abuse, but I am not Cecil B. DeMille.
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Hmm, plexi is an interesting idea. Sealer is actually a really good idea. I wanted the woodgrain to show through a little so that should still do it but the ink transfer might actually grab more evenly to the sealer. I'll give that a try.Reeltarded wrote: ↑Thu Jul 27, 2023 6:15 am Tip!
Two things.
Use plexi because soaking the item in water until the paper comes off with a fingertip is perfection..
OR
Use 4 coat sealer then sand dead flat before using the glue. Make sure the piece is sealed all edges front and back. You can be rougher with the water and never break the sealer. Clean up the edges if you need after the piece is complete and coated.
Looks great though, huh? It will be supernice when you get it right.
Thanks for the suggestions Miles!
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Reeltarded
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Try the sealer first. If it comes out clean that is the easy route.
I love it ghosted on in the attempts! It will be great!
I love it ghosted on in the attempts! It will be great!
Signatures have a 255 character limit that I could abuse, but I am not Cecil B. DeMille.
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aceofbones
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
It's alive!!!
Got a woodburned faceplate finished up, solder up the pilot light, threw it on the lightbulb limiter and fired it up. All was good so fired it up without the limiter and all looked good. This amp sounds so good!
My voltages mostly look like the expected values. The PI values are a little off. I'm not sure if that's an issue or not. Maybe someone could chime in.
It was late last night so couldn't crank it full on, but I'll get to that today.
Got a woodburned faceplate finished up, solder up the pilot light, threw it on the lightbulb limiter and fired it up. All was good so fired it up without the limiter and all looked good. This amp sounds so good!
My voltages mostly look like the expected values. The PI values are a little off. I'm not sure if that's an issue or not. Maybe someone could chime in.
It was late last night so couldn't crank it full on, but I'll get to that today.
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Re: Canadian Rocket build
Looking great! Beautiful work.
What Heyboer PT did you use?
Did you measure power tube plate current and dissipation? If it is high your other voltages will get pulled down.
You can adjust your different node voltages by changing the dropping string resistors. Sometimes tube selection will affect voltages if they draw more or less current than others.
What Heyboer PT did you use?
Did you measure power tube plate current and dissipation? If it is high your other voltages will get pulled down.
You can adjust your different node voltages by changing the dropping string resistors. Sometimes tube selection will affect voltages if they draw more or less current than others.