IEC power inlet - heresy?

[mlp-mx6]

I really prefer the IEC power inlet approach due to convenience. I don't like having to figure out how to stash the permanently attached power cord in a head box. (I know, you can FORGET to bring the power cord too!)

I have a chassis from Allyn. Would it be heresy for me to swap the postions of the fuse holder with the AC inlet so I could cut a place for an IEC inlet? There isn't room for the IEC inlet in the current cord location - too close to the fuse holder hole.

Kinda kidding about the heresy thing, but whaddaya think?

[908ssp]

I never gave it a second thought.

[img:500:375]http://home.comcast.net/~908ssp/CageWreckTubes1.jpg[/img]

[skyboltone]

I hate them things. I'll never put in another one until somebody buys me the punch that makes the perfect hole, and makes the whole thing less than 3/4" deep. They take up too much room in the amp.

[drhulsey]

I really prefer the IEC power inlet approach due to convenience.

Me, too And I keep an extra cord in my rack. I keep an extra everything
I used one on one of Allyn's chassis and oriented the IEC differently.
Dan is right about it taking up room, but I detest dragging a permanently attached cord. I don't think a Powercon receptacle would take up any less room internally.

[captain_rusty]

I bought a Liverpool clone from Ceriatone, which arrived damaged. It had a permanent power cord, but the replacement amp they sent me has the IEC socket, which I much prefer.
[img:567:425]http://rustyzone.free.fr/images/liverpool_5.jpg[/img]

[klingo]

Old PC's are my favourite IEC socket suppliers...(as well as multicoloured 300v wires, HV ceramic snubber & mkp caps, MO resistors...) some IEC are coming with HF filter & Fuse.

[paulster]

IEC every time for me too. I get my chassis laser-cut, so I don't have the nightmare of cutting or punching them out myself though. Powercon is better for DIY I'd imagine, but you can't borrow a Powercon lead from anybody else generally.

It means you can use the right length/terminated power cord for the particular application, and it's much easier to transport a head without a cable dangling from it. It's also easier to replace if it gets damaged.

[Phil_S]

You can scavenge the IEC inlet from a PC power supply that's gone south. That makes it free. Or, you can buy them for under $2 mail order. I like them for all the reasons stated by others.

As for the one naysayer about cutting the hole...I agree and disagree. It is a PITA to cut the hole, but, if you do this for hobby work, it can be done well with more ordinary tools than an expensive punch in 15-30 minutes, which I view as a minor drawback.

First, draw your box on the chassis with a fine point Sharpie. Then, what I do is cut a 3/4" round hole with a step bit. You need roughly 3/4" x 1". Drill the corners with a 1/8" bit, careful to make the hole tangent to the cutout line (This is easy to muff.) I use a triangle file and a flat mill file to remove the rest of the material to get the hole to the correct size. When I get close, I keep checking the fit until it's right.

This goes much quicker on aluminum compared to steel. But I've done it several times on steel without difficulty. Take extra care on Aluminum not to oversize the hole as a few strokes remove quite a bit of material.

Some folks like a nibbler for opening the hole, but I don't own one of those. If you are going to do this, it is a good excuse for buying another tool.

[drhulsey]

It means you can use the right length/terminated power cord for the particular application

AND, if you carry one of these, you can substitute an extension cord They are available from: http://www.markertek.com/SearchProduct. ... &sort=prod

[mlp-mx6]

Folks - thanks for the good discussion.

Quick follow-up question - is there any code-related violation if I swap the placement of the IEC inlet with the fuse holder? Not planning to sell this (for a few decades, anyway), but don't want to create an unforeseen problem. (that I can't imagine right now)

[paulster]

There shouldn't be any code violation regarding the relative placement of the IEC inlet and the fuseholder, provided they are correctly wired and grounded.

I use this as my space-saving solution as it incorporates the IEC inlet and mains fuse:
[img:200:195]http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com ... 830-01.jpg[/img]

[JammyDodger]

To All,

Is there a punch available that would do this? What is the size of the hole (1.0 x 3/4" ???). I'd like to look at this option as me and files don't get along.

By the way I need to go thru 1/8 Aluminium.

Cheers, Mike

[skyboltone]

To All,

Is there a punch available that would do this? What is the size of the hole (1.0 x 3/4" ???). <snip> They're all over the lot. The only thing standard about them is the three little prongs and the shape of the inlet plug.
By the way I need to go thru 1/8 Aluminium. Well now you're really screwed. You need a CNC Mill and to learn the programming. Then you're all set
Cheers, Mike

You could look around for a nibbler that will do 1/8" aluminum, save up for a couple of months and buy one of them.

I always have a pack of tie wraps in my gear. Just make a nice round coil and tiewrap it. Looks "Vintage"

Dan

[skyboltone]

There shouldn't be any code violation regarding the relative placement of the IEC inlet and the fuseholder, provided they are correctly wired and grounded.

I use this as my space-saving solution as it incorporates the IEC inlet and mains fuse:
[img:200:195]http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com ... 830-01.jpg[/img]

This maybe I could tollerate, unless it uses some wierdo unobtainium fuse.

[skyboltone]

I never gave it a second thought.

[img:500:375]http://home.comcast.net/~908ssp/CageWreckTubes1.jpg[/img]

You running KT-66s? You rebel!