4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Interesting. Somewhat different from the standalone 2 watt power amp schemo posted at AX84.com. Looks like this has a newer date. Thanks!
edit
OK I see whats up... I was looking at the 2 watt PP power amp standalone, and you are using the October 2 watt schem.
edit
OK I see whats up... I was looking at the 2 watt PP power amp standalone, and you are using the October 2 watt schem.
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
The changes were only recently made. The 2 watt PP power amp over at the AX84 site is the older version. Cliff used to have to play his October~Studio with the MV on 5 to keep from overpowering the 6SN7. With the newer version, you don't need a stinking MV.doctord02 wrote:Interesting. Somewhat different from the standalone 2 watt power amp schemo posted at AX84.com. Looks like this has a newer date. Thanks!
edit
OK I see whats up... I was looking at the 2 watt PP power amp standalone, and you are using the October 2 watt schem.
Brian
- RJ Guitars
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Which Trainwreck Preamp and layout are you going to use?
I was also curious about the chassis. Will you stick to the 17x8x2 inch chassis dimensions? It seems that all of Ken Fishers work used this chassis and it seems to make some contribution to the mojo... wondering if it will be a standard wreck with low power section or a hybrid with a wreckish preamp?
rj
I was also curious about the chassis. Will you stick to the 17x8x2 inch chassis dimensions? It seems that all of Ken Fishers work used this chassis and it seems to make some contribution to the mojo... wondering if it will be a standard wreck with low power section or a hybrid with a wreckish preamp?
rj
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
I think we are starting with the A1a from the Blueguitars site. Thought about doing a standard Wreck with a low power output section following Ken's layout, etc. but decided to go the hybrid with a wreckish preamp route for the first one. It will never sound exactly like a wreck anyway because I don't think Ken ever built one with a 6SN7 output section but if it can get the same flavor and feel I'll be happy.RJ Guitars wrote:Which Trainwreck Preamp and layout are you going to use?
I was also curious about the chassis. Will you stick to the 17x8x2 inch chassis dimensions? It seems that all of Ken Fishers work used this chassis and it seems to make some contribution to the mojo... wondering if it will be a standard wreck with low power section or a hybrid with a wreckish preamp?
rj
Most of the criticism about low watt builds is that they don't get the same blooming feedback. Likely because most of them use a single ended output section. The PI is a big part of the tone and I am hoping using the 2 watt PP output section will cure that.
Brian
a 6SN7 wreck - Woohoo!
Brian,
Any update on your Wreckless progress?
I love my wreck but my ears and my neighbours are not so pleased.
For the studio, I built the simple uTube 6SN7 amp and I really love the mellow and clean sounds.
I had been thinking a wrecked preamp version for a while when I saw your msg. I hope we can hear some samples soon...
Meanwhile, I am building the October studio 6SN7 output for american and crunch sounds and depending on the results of your experiences, I plan to build a wreck pre amp version as well.
If the wreck version is able to capture some of that singing lead sound at low volumes, it would certainly be a great addition to any amp stable.
M
Any update on your Wreckless progress?
I love my wreck but my ears and my neighbours are not so pleased.
For the studio, I built the simple uTube 6SN7 amp and I really love the mellow and clean sounds.
I had been thinking a wrecked preamp version for a while when I saw your msg. I hope we can hear some samples soon...
Meanwhile, I am building the October studio 6SN7 output for american and crunch sounds and depending on the results of your experiences, I plan to build a wreck pre amp version as well.
If the wreck version is able to capture some of that singing lead sound at low volumes, it would certainly be a great addition to any amp stable.
M
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Re: a 6SN7 wreck - Woohoo!
I have the parts together and am punching the chassis this weekend. Should have it up and running in a couple of weeks. I'll definitely report back when it is through. Maybe post a few build photos in the mean time.MSS wrote:Brian,
Any update on your Wreckless progress?
I love my wreck but my ears and my neighbours are not so pleased.
For the studio, I built the simple uTube 6SN7 amp and I really love the mellow and clean sounds through a 12", at low volumes.
I had been thinking about a wrecked preamp version for a while when I saw your msg. I hope we can hear some samples soon...
Meanwhile, I am building the October studio for american and crunch sounds and depending on the results of your experiences, I plan to build a wrecked version as well.
If the wreck version is able to capture some of that singing lead sound at low volumes, it would certainly be a great addition to any amp stable.
M
If you build the October Studio, you have to add the series parallel switch. It is a bit of trouble to eliminate squeal (watch your layout) but man does it add a new dimention to the amp. The tonal range covers everything from the 50s to the 90s.
Even at 2 watts, mine is pretty loud. I usually use a Mass for everything but cleans to get it to low bedroom volumes. But it won't make the neighbors call the cops if you dime the volme.
Brian
- Lonely Raven
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
As a highly certified HP printer tech with 10 years of experience....I say good luck with that.
I have another option that may work using a laser printer, but I want to test it on one of my own faceplates first so if it fouls up, I don't ruin someone elses work with my suggestions.
I'll see if I can test my theory out this weekend, and post my results here on TGP for everyone to benefit from.
I have another option that may work using a laser printer, but I want to test it on one of my own faceplates first so if it fouls up, I don't ruin someone elses work with my suggestions.
I'll see if I can test my theory out this weekend, and post my results here on TGP for everyone to benefit from.
GainMaster wrote:I was thinking just tape the veneer to the paper and run it through the printer. If it works, I'll do a tutorialRJ Guitars wrote: Very Cool - do you want to do a tutorial, that sounds like an awesome technique. I never really thought about running a veneer sheet through a printer - how does that work?
I have made front panels using a laser printer and clear acetate (overhead projector) sheets, but the ink didn't seem to like the poly coat so it got a little tricky, but I didn't work at real hard.
rj
Brian
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Lonely Raven wrote:As a highly certified HP printer tech with 10 years of experience....I say good luck with that.
I have another option that may work using a laser printer, but I want to test it on one of my own faceplates first so if it fouls up, I don't ruin someone elses work with my suggestions.
I'll see if I can test my theory out this weekend, and post my results here on TGP for everyone to benefit from.
Well actually I did do some initial testing. I was able to run the veneer through the printer but you have to watch the grain as the veneer is more flexable if the grain is oriented correctly.
The print came out very nice. There were only two problems. The print can rub off so you have to becareful how you handle it, and if you don't sand the veneer first, you don't get as good a coverage of the veneer with the ink. The printer wants a smooth surface for best coverage.
Next time I will sand the veneer and after it is printed, lightly coat it with a couple of coats of spray poly (brushing will smear the print) to seal it in before further handling. Then I can cut out the words and glue them to my faceplate. It will work. I'm just waiting untill I get further along with the amp. Here is a picture of the latest logo.
Brian
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
I am also interested in how this project is progressing. I think it's a great idea and may well follow your cue - depending on results...
Keep us posted.
Keep us posted.
__________________________________________
Cheers and Beers.
Cheers and Beers.
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Well, the chassis is punched. I'll be populating the turret board next weekend. Here is a pic of the cab Cliff Chappell over at http://chappellamps.com/ built for me. It included matching wood faceplatesBeerman wrote:I am also interested in how this project is progressing. I think it's a great idea and may well follow your cue - depending on results...
Keep us posted.
Brian
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Niiice Cab!!!
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Wow, what a fantastic looking cab!
Jack of all Trades,
Master of None
Master of None
Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
That is s very nice cab, whats the wood that he used to make it?
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Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
Cliff has a lumberyard down the road from him that stocks exotic wood. The whole cab is made from one piece of flame maple dyed redish brown. The piping on either side of the front pannel is undyed flame maple. The veneer I have to do the logo and the lettering under the knobs is also flame maple to match the cab and faceplate. Should look real nice if I don't screw it upDocJames wrote:That is s very nice cab, whats the wood that he used to make it?
Brian
Re: 4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]
It's a good thing that knot on top is off-center. That way it won't be in the way when you drill the holes for the handle. (ducks and runs)GainMaster wrote:Cliff has a lumberyard down the road from him that stocks exotic wood. The whole cab is made from one piece of flame maple dyed redish brown. The piping on either side of the front pannel is undyed flame maple. The veneer I have to do the logo and the lettering under the knobs is also flame maple to match the cab and faceplate. Should look real nice if I don't screw it upDocJames wrote:That is s very nice cab, whats the wood that he used to make it?
Brian
Cliff does some great work. One of the guys I built an amp for is getting a cab from him for it.
Matt