The Amp Garage

For those of you that are learning to roll your own cabinets, here's me giving a short tolexing lesson. This is a Dumble cabinet in rough black.

I gotta find some way to give back to you evil geniuses

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sX_WeWAW4IY



This cab was for sale earlier this week in the For Sale section.

Learn to tolex in less than 10 minutes!

Kudos to you. Thank you very much for your sharing here.

That was great! Thanks for sharing your technique and experience, Taylor.
Cheers,
Greg T.

Do you have another video out there wrapping a 5150 head?

Thanks buddy!

Nice!

You don't mention the glue. Painted on the back of the vinyl? What type? Let it dry first?

Holy sh*t Taylor!
You make it look easy.
Thanks-
George

I like wilsonart H20 for glue. Water based, non toxic, cleans up with dish soap. I paint in on both surfaces and let it completely dry, then stick it!

M Fowler wrote:Do you have another video out there wrapping a 5150 head?

Thanks buddy!

I don't know Mark...maybe you can find one when I wrapped this thing!!

[IMG602]http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz97 ... CF2662.jpg[/img]

Thanks for sharing! Very helpful !
Mario

Thanks Taylor!!!!!! you make it look so easy!

and just in time as I've been studying up on how to cover these cabinets I made. Hope you don't mind a few questions.

It looks like you:

1. don't use a heat gun? Does this change with other types of covering?

2. don't cut to accommodate the top panel cut out, just stretch through the curves? or did I miss something?

3. I'm on the west coast, can't seem to find the Wilson art H2O but Home depot had this water based contact cement. Are you familiar with it?

4. any tips for the back panel?

Thanks again!

Eric

Eric,

Have you used that Weldwood yet? It works, but not the best IMO. I've used it for a couple of cabs but it doesn't quite have the sticky factor that I want. I've used the stuff from Mojotone and it works a little better but they are inconsistent with quality. I got a lumpy batch last time. I can't get the H20 here either unfortunately.

sonicmojo wrote:Eric,

Have you used that Weldwood yet? It works, but not the best IMO. I've used it for a couple of cabs but it doesn't quite have the sticky factor that I want. I've used the stuff from Mojotone and it works a little better but they are inconsistent with quality. I got a lumpy batch last time. I can't get the H20 here either unfortunately.

Haven't used it yet. It is their water based formula. The VOC formula looks the same but the color is red instead of green.

Eric

I used the non-toxic green kind like you bought. FWIW, I won't use it again and try really hard to find that Wilsonart H20 next time.

sonicmojo wrote:I used the non-toxic green kind like you bought. FWIW, I won't use it again and try really hard to find that Wilsonart H20 next time.

http://www.wilsonartadhesives.com/produ ... .aspx?p=ca

Good tip, can't seem to find an online seller. Closest distributor is 22 miles,not bad.

Eric

Finally got around to watching. You make it look too easy Taylor- comes with having done a hundred or two probably. Thanks for posting!

sonicmojo wrote:Eric,

Have you used that Weldwood yet? It works, but not the best IMO. I've used it for a couple of cabs but it doesn't quite have the sticky factor that I want. I've used the stuff from Mojotone and it works a little better but they are inconsistent with quality. I got a lumpy batch last time. I can't get the H20 here either unfortunately.

I used the Weldwood too. I know what you mean by not seeming to have the "sticky factor" that a non-waterbased has, but the cabinet I used it on is now over a year old and nothing has started to come loose. I chalked it up to just the inherent issues with a waterbased adhesive. I did add some low heat to areas to get it to stick quicker. It seemed the "contact reaction" wasn't as quick. A little heat helped with this.