The Amp Garage

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 10:28 pm**

Deric, that really does help a lot, thanks!

Posted: **Fri Nov 28, 2014 2:30 am**

I use the high strength spray 3M glue and a heat gun and it works wonders. The heat gun is really useful especially in the winter. Just my $.02

Posted: **Tue Mar 17, 2015 5:50 pm**

amplifiednation wrote:Home Depot stopped carrying the H20 about six months ago, I cleared out a few stores...one of them actually gave me all their stock! They still sell the flammable stuff, but I would not recommend it.

I now get it right from Wilsonart, who has a warehouse nearby. The water based cements are challenging to store in quantity-if it freezes, it gets lumpy, and will ruin. In another forum I read that Mojo was re-branding the H20 as 'tolex glue' but I have no idea if that is true. Maybe they got a bad batch or it froze?

jhaas, if you had a bad experience with H20, I bet you didn't let it dry long enough. I use marine vinyl frequently, and it absorbs more glue because of the thicker backing and drying times increase. I like to dry the pieces in the sun, but usually am stuck to putting an oscillating fans on them inside. I have some old clothes drying racks that work great. I get bonds that are stronger than the plywood!

Make sure to put a medium coat on the cabinet and the vinyl/tolex and let both completely dry. I usually get everything painted and then go do something else for awhile. Sometimes I come back an hour or two later!

Waiting is the worst part, but it makes wrapping cabs as easy as that video shows, no staples, no super glue, and no heat gun needed!!

Of course heat will speed up the drying times if you gotta be somewhere though, which is why I like drying in the sun. Man, I should be selling this stuff...

Thanks for the tutorial. It helped tremendously with tolexing my cabinet.

I used the Wilsonart H20 and while I had a bad experience on the first piece I did, the rest went much better. The sun....it works fantastic.

I found getting a good even coat so that it all dries fairly evenly, letting it dry in the sun, 20 minutes is all it needs. It stayed good and tacky for a long while.

The first day I did it it was rainy and humid. It took forever to dry and even then, I don't think it dried evenly. It just didn't work as well as the second day with the sun drying.

Definitely getting it good and dry makes this stuff work great!

Thanks again for the tutorial. Still have to work on the corner cuts. I'm using corner pieces so it's okay, but I'd like to be able to do one with using corners one day.

Oh, I've got a gallon of Wilsonart H20. I'll never use it all before its shelf life is over. Anybody in the middle TN area that wants a quart or two, bring me a container and I'll give you some.

Posted: **Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:38 pm**

I'm new here, I joined while gleaning info for my first cabinet. I am a countertop fabricator by trade and work in a kitchen and bath store. Wilsonart is a big brand like Formica, they make everything from laminates to solid surfaces like Corian to flooring. You may have luck finding products locally if you can find a laminate fabricator and or supply place around you or a flooring store.
I chose the Karndean vinyl floor adhesive for a couple of reasons; It's water based, I've used it before, it is only necessary to coat one surface and we had some leftover from an install and it was free.

Posted: **Fri Apr 24, 2015 4:59 pm**

When I installed a laminate floor in my house we chose Wilsonart flooring.

The glue is very good and creates a very strong bond.

I have heard from more than a few people that it works great for Tolex.

Posted: **Sat Apr 25, 2015 2:23 am**

Wilsonart H2O kicks butt. I still use it. Man I use it on everything. Tolex, suede, leather, I even do pedal enclosures with it. I get 5 gallon huge drums of it. It's pricey but I've never had ANY issues.

Now that it's almost summer I use the sun to dry it. In the winter I hit it with fans, or work on the baffle while the glue dries.

Posted: **Fri Sep 25, 2015 6:13 pm**

hello everyone I'm Simone
to coat with a round area tolex how can you make?

Posted: **Sat Sep 26, 2015 2:41 pm**

for cut tolex in a curved hole like this

Posted: **Sat Sep 26, 2015 3:18 pm**

Posted: **Sat Sep 26, 2015 4:30 pm**

Not certain I understand your question. But I think the answer is, make small cuts in the tolex, and use a hair dryer to help form the material around the curves.

Posted: **Sat Sep 26, 2015 5:31 pm**

i've try but ...
this is my last job .
little cut tolex with under a piece of the same tolex , but reaaly i see the cuts

Posted: **Tue Sep 29, 2015 2:18 pm**

Looks like you may also have some air bubbles under the tolex.

You can use a roller when installing or later stick a pin in the bubble to release the air.

There is an art to this stuff.

Posted: **Fri Oct 02, 2015 12:46 pm**

thanks structu !
take a lookto the hole
in the upper side , there are the cut
there is a best method for toxeling cover rounded holes ?

Posted: **Fri Jun 29, 2018 3:01 am**

Nice video.

I too would like to see someone do an oval cutout. I have a TRM 3D cab coming soon.

Posted: **Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:36 pm**

I think it helps to use thinner wood, here is one I did, seemed to be able to hide (most) of the flaws! Now if I could just get the corners round!

The Amp Garage

Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial

Re: Amplified Nation Tolex Tutorial