We had a warm day on Saturday which allowed me to attempt cutting parts for that 2x 5" cabinet outside. I don't have an inside place to make sawdust. So, what I do is primitive. I work mostly with a 5 1/2 circular saw. (It is an old B&D that I've had since about 1977 and hard to find blades these days.) I have devised ways to make controlled cuts. Though not nearly as good as a table saw, things tend to work out reasonably well.
I was very disappointed when I cut some plywood for a baffle. The rip cut (based on outer layer) went OK, but the cross cut showed what thought was excessive tearout on the top side of the board. I was using an old 100 tooth plywood blade. I didn't have a fresh plywood blade, so I took my chances. It was a little slow on the rip cut. The cross cut was less than 10" so I can't really say if that was also feeling slow.
I'm wondering, is this sort of nastiness because of a dull blade? Or do I really need to place a second board on top to prevent tearout?
Plywood tearout
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Plywood tearout
It could also be the gap between the blade and flat surface of the saw.
John
John
Do not limit yourself to what others think is reasonable or possible.
www.johnchristou.com
www.johnchristou.com
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dano-rator
- Posts: 150
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- Location: s.jersey
Re: Plywood tearout
Most likely what John said, you can try some masking tape on the cut line, but that in itself can lift the fibers. Cut it upside down and google "circular saw zero clearance" for ideas.
You could drop big bucks for a better set up, I have some nice stuff... And its nice, but I worked for a long time with a similar setup.
Good luck with your project!
Dan
You could drop big bucks for a better set up, I have some nice stuff... And its nice, but I worked for a long time with a similar setup.
Good luck with your project!
Dan
Oo De Lally
Re: Plywood tearout
Wow, I found a couple of articles on zero clearance! Very informative, very interesting. It really helps to know what to look for. I found one that is more complicated than it needs to be...the guy cuts a plexiglass window at the front and it is way cool. This seems straight forward enough and something that is long overdue in my tool bank. Thanks very much.
BTW, I'd be very happy to spend a few dollars for a table saw. Unfortunately, the only workspace I've got for a table saw is outside. That means I have to move it out to work and back in at the end of the day. It will aggravate my wire no end, because I'll leave it in the den. I'll do that because it is a PITA to move it into the basement. The basement is a 14' x 18' room with the furnace, water heater, sump pump, and most importantly, the electronics bench. Power tools and the e-bench aren't compatible!
If I am ever lucky enough to move to another house, there will be a dedicated room for a wood shop!
BTW, I'd be very happy to spend a few dollars for a table saw. Unfortunately, the only workspace I've got for a table saw is outside. That means I have to move it out to work and back in at the end of the day. It will aggravate my wire no end, because I'll leave it in the den. I'll do that because it is a PITA to move it into the basement. The basement is a 14' x 18' room with the furnace, water heater, sump pump, and most importantly, the electronics bench. Power tools and the e-bench aren't compatible!
If I am ever lucky enough to move to another house, there will be a dedicated room for a wood shop!
Re: Plywood tearout
Dan's suggestion on the tape works well. Some types of plywood are not very forgiving. Unless the wood is going to show I don't get too fussed about tear out. I fill in the voids with wood filler or epoxy and sand flat. I paint the baffle black so nothing shows.
Congratulations on moving forward with your project. Be sure to post pics.
Russ
Congratulations on moving forward with your project. Be sure to post pics.
Russ
Re: Plywood tearout
Take a look at the Eurekazone track saw.
It uses your circular saw with a supplied base.
No tear out and no kickback.
You can work on full sheets of plywood.
It can replace a table saw and the track is easy to store when it's not in use.
It's half the price of some of the others.
It will make tear out free cuts and you can get any length of track that you want.
http://www.eurekazone.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3emS0cn0cT0
Track saws start at $160 for a 36 inch track and you can add length to your track as you need more.
I am not affiliated with the company, I just like and use their products.
They are offering 15% off until the end of the month.
It uses your circular saw with a supplied base.
No tear out and no kickback.
You can work on full sheets of plywood.
It can replace a table saw and the track is easy to store when it's not in use.
It's half the price of some of the others.
It will make tear out free cuts and you can get any length of track that you want.
http://www.eurekazone.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3emS0cn0cT0
Track saws start at $160 for a 36 inch track and you can add length to your track as you need more.
I am not affiliated with the company, I just like and use their products.
They are offering 15% off until the end of the month.
Re: Plywood tearout
http://www.rockler.com/52-to-104-low-pr ... amp-system
I have this.
Works well with my Makita rechargeable saw, or a router.
John
I have this.
Works well with my Makita rechargeable saw, or a router.
John
Do not limit yourself to what others think is reasonable or possible.
www.johnchristou.com
www.johnchristou.com
Re: Plywood tearout
Get a good carbide blade. And make q zero clearance insert
Re: Plywood tearout
Additional posts are all very illuminating and helpful to see.
I'm not willing to invest too much in tools for this. I don't know anyone who wouldn't rather have a table saw, but, as I explained, it's not in the cards, nor do I expect it will be any time soon. It was still very helpful to see the Eurekazone track saw.
I am thinking 2 things are needed right now.
1) Zero clearance plate. I have some used plexiglas that is sitting. I can cut a piece off for the plate and attach with 2 sided tape as suggested in one of the articles I read.
2) An improved straight edge system. I have some long pieces of the U shaped metal with slots that is used for hanging shelves that can be adapted nicely. It is straight as an arrow if the placed on its side like a C -- almost zero flex.
I'm thinking some alterations to my outdoor work table are in order. At the very least, I should punch a few holes for some bench dogs, which would make the clamping of work much easier. Also, some slots for guides, but I have to figure out how to get them exactly straight. It occurs to me, any two bench dogs define a straight line. I'll think on this for a while.
Fill the tearout and paint the baffle is helpful to hear, too. I realize, that can be the inside and I can probably ignore it. I should be less compulsive about such things. And yes, the baffle should be painted black. I have two cabs I built without doing that and I regret not painting the baffle.
Really, your thoughts are very helpful and much appreciated.
I'm not willing to invest too much in tools for this. I don't know anyone who wouldn't rather have a table saw, but, as I explained, it's not in the cards, nor do I expect it will be any time soon. It was still very helpful to see the Eurekazone track saw.
I am thinking 2 things are needed right now.
1) Zero clearance plate. I have some used plexiglas that is sitting. I can cut a piece off for the plate and attach with 2 sided tape as suggested in one of the articles I read.
2) An improved straight edge system. I have some long pieces of the U shaped metal with slots that is used for hanging shelves that can be adapted nicely. It is straight as an arrow if the placed on its side like a C -- almost zero flex.
I'm thinking some alterations to my outdoor work table are in order. At the very least, I should punch a few holes for some bench dogs, which would make the clamping of work much easier. Also, some slots for guides, but I have to figure out how to get them exactly straight. It occurs to me, any two bench dogs define a straight line. I'll think on this for a while.
Fill the tearout and paint the baffle is helpful to hear, too. I realize, that can be the inside and I can probably ignore it. I should be less compulsive about such things. And yes, the baffle should be painted black. I have two cabs I built without doing that and I regret not painting the baffle.
Really, your thoughts are very helpful and much appreciated.