You need to cut the hole out with a saw first then clean up the edge with your router and jig. Or make about 5 passesshoggoth wrote:2 steps forward, 1 step back.
So I built a jig to cut out the square holes for the detuned ports - basically a picture frame. Then went to run the router along the edge, with a bit with a beraing, and it just kept kicking all over the place. Pretty dangerous and the edges have all kinds of divets now where it kicks, so I stopped.
I'm thinking it's because I'm cutting through plywood without anything holding the router in place, so it just wants to wander wherever.
Maybe if I cut out a slightly smaller square with a jigsaw and clean up the edges using the jig & router, if it only had to cut away 1/8" or something? Would that kick so much?
The circular holes were much easier, it was all bolted into place and couldn't kick.
kevin o'connor detuned speaker cab
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: kevin o'connor detuned speaker cab
Re: kevin o'connor detuned speaker cab
+1 on what cbass says. I am sorry I gave incomplete information about a jig and bit with bearing. With a router, taking off too much material at one time can lead to problems. You've got to consider both depth and lateral cutting distance. You really want one side of the bit to be free from the material being cut. The circle is different because of the way the jig holds things. Even then, it is best to make several passes that are progressively deeper.
On the paint question, I use spray can paint. A coat of black primer (the kind with 10 minute dry time) is helpful in getting the finish coat to lay down properly. A quick spray with the primer, a little sanding, then a finish coat in flat black should do it. All you really want is to make it dark for effect so it doesn't flash through the grill cloth. Mount any hardware that might show and paint that, too.
On the paint question, I use spray can paint. A coat of black primer (the kind with 10 minute dry time) is helpful in getting the finish coat to lay down properly. A quick spray with the primer, a little sanding, then a finish coat in flat black should do it. All you really want is to make it dark for effect so it doesn't flash through the grill cloth. Mount any hardware that might show and paint that, too.
Re: kevin o'connor detuned speaker cab
Well, I'm finished with this project. The way I do things, is I start big projects, and get distracted about a third of the way through and complete them years later. This speaker cabinet took about 2 years from buying speakers to actually wrapping it up...
The biggest problem I had was routing finger joints into plywood. Everything got torn up, some fingers were missing... fortunately the adage "you can always remove wood, but you can't put it back" is a lie thanks to epoxy. I thickened epoxy with wood flour and filled everything in, then routed it.
Tolexing was another pain due to the cold weather (see http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26724), lots of air bubbles. Put pinholes into the bubbles and then a heat gun to soften glue and shrink the vinyl. Problem solved.
I only set the inner frames for baffle & back in by 3/4", I should've done an inch, so everything is kind of flush with the front. Not a big deal. I also put the bottom piece of tolex on first, should've done it last, so the seams would be hidden underneath the corner protectors. Barely noticeable so again not a big deal.
My last mistake was not getting the grill cloth tight enough. No idea how to do it right, I pulled and pulled before stapling but it still seems too baggy. When I get a logo plate made up it'll hold it tight in the center but I expect some sagging will eventually occur and I'll have to redo it.
I first tested it through my 6505+ 112 combo. It absolutely roared, sounded way better - as would be expected with any bigger cab really.
I've also borrowed a buddy's H&K Coreblade (he got an ENGL Invader and doesn't use the Coreblade anymore), but I'm having issues dialing in a decent sound. Too many options, and all the presets change the values with no visual indication... not loving this amp at all. But that's neither here nor there.
At some point I'll get the cab to my buddy's house and do a proper comparison with his Diamond 4x12 cabinet. But so far I'm liking it quite a bit, very well defined low end with the cheapo SGR C7 seven string I just picked up on sale from Guitar Center (the low end Schecter).
Oh and speakers are a pair of G12T75's. Much maligned but they sound really nice in this cab so far, and they're not even broken in yet.
Anyhow, here's the insides:
[img
1024]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee25 ... 1a6667.jpg[/img]
And here's the outsides:
[img1024]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee25 ... 665ad2.jpg[/img]
The biggest problem I had was routing finger joints into plywood. Everything got torn up, some fingers were missing... fortunately the adage "you can always remove wood, but you can't put it back" is a lie thanks to epoxy. I thickened epoxy with wood flour and filled everything in, then routed it.
Tolexing was another pain due to the cold weather (see http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26724), lots of air bubbles. Put pinholes into the bubbles and then a heat gun to soften glue and shrink the vinyl. Problem solved.
I only set the inner frames for baffle & back in by 3/4", I should've done an inch, so everything is kind of flush with the front. Not a big deal. I also put the bottom piece of tolex on first, should've done it last, so the seams would be hidden underneath the corner protectors. Barely noticeable so again not a big deal.
My last mistake was not getting the grill cloth tight enough. No idea how to do it right, I pulled and pulled before stapling but it still seems too baggy. When I get a logo plate made up it'll hold it tight in the center but I expect some sagging will eventually occur and I'll have to redo it.
I first tested it through my 6505+ 112 combo. It absolutely roared, sounded way better - as would be expected with any bigger cab really.
I've also borrowed a buddy's H&K Coreblade (he got an ENGL Invader and doesn't use the Coreblade anymore), but I'm having issues dialing in a decent sound. Too many options, and all the presets change the values with no visual indication... not loving this amp at all. But that's neither here nor there.
At some point I'll get the cab to my buddy's house and do a proper comparison with his Diamond 4x12 cabinet. But so far I'm liking it quite a bit, very well defined low end with the cheapo SGR C7 seven string I just picked up on sale from Guitar Center (the low end Schecter).
Oh and speakers are a pair of G12T75's. Much maligned but they sound really nice in this cab so far, and they're not even broken in yet.
Anyhow, here's the insides:
[img
1024]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee25 ... 1a6667.jpg[/img]
And here's the outsides:
[img
1024]http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee25 ... 665ad2.jpg[/img]
Re: kevin o'connor detuned speaker cab
Your cab looks great!
One of the absolute best things about tolex is it makes anything look better! Good job on finishing - I have several projects that have marinated a while.
Russ
One of the absolute best things about tolex is it makes anything look better! Good job on finishing - I have several projects that have marinated a while.
Russ
Re: kevin o'connor detuned speaker cab
The cab looks great and most important sounds good to your ears.