Most economical way to apply DAP weldwood?

[eddie25]

I suspect it might be a foam brush and it worked out ok for me, but the brush really falls apart quick. Am I better off using a paint brush and cleaning it? Is that even possible with this stuff?

Disposable rollers would be great but seems like it would be expensive.

[Ken Moon]

I use the red can smelly Weldwood for all my tolex.

I buy brushes by the dozen online and throw them away after use. I use a 3" brush for the large areas and 1" angled for the little flaps and such.

I've thought about sticking the handle in the ground and setting one on fire - might make a cool little torch

[Ken Moon]

Just in case you haven't seen it, this is my favorie tolexing video - man. this guy is fast

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz1Z16JIaaM#t=296

[statorvane]

I use those cheap chip bristle brushes to apply the glue, and a wallpaper seam roller to roll out the covering. Toss the brushes when done.

[rp]

I use the red can smelly Weldwood for all my tolex

Is this the solvent (MEK?) one, ie not the water based one? A little thinner helps spread and economize. Be care with this stuff, I used it 'till I noticed all my corners shrank back and opened as time passed. Seems the solvent softens the tolex allowing it to stretch. Maybe you have an easier hand then me and it worked for you.

[Ken Moon]

I hate the water-based stuff.

I haven't had any shrinkage or pull-back, and I've been doing it the same way for more than 10 years. I tried making a Marshall head, with the neatly cut corners and such, and realized I'd better find something simpler

I wish I had better pics, but I use one long piece of tolex that covers 3 sides plus 1-1/2" on each side of the bottom.

[img694]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... tPine2.jpg[/img]

I glue that on just the flat parts and let it dry for a day. The next day I cut and glue the little flaps that wrap around the sides, ending at the 1x2 cleats. (this pic includes the bottom piece of tolex, but it shows how far I like to wrap it around.

[img682]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... tPine3.jpg[/img]

The second piece of tolex is just a straight piece cut to the width betwwen the inside edges of the cab. This will result in a 3/4"overlap, 3/4 of an inch from each edge.

The corners hide any imperfections, and the feet are bolted through both layers of tolex, also helping to hold it in place.

[img761]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... head02.jpg[/img]

[jaysg]

I use a nylon putty knife with the Gel version.

[cbass]

I use foam rollers but I'm spreading a lot more than a amp cab.wrap it up real good in plastic keeps for quite a while. Disposable brushes I would think some of them really suck though and leave bristles everywhere.

[Phil_S]

[img694]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... tPine3.jpg[/img]

I love what you did for the handle!

[jhaas]

I use cheap 2" brushes with the wood handle from the home centers for $1 ea. In between coats I put them in a jar with mineral spirits that keeps them from hardening.

Prior to the next coat I wipe the excess mineral spirits off with a paper towel, and then take a wire brush to it for about 15 seconds to get out the left over glue. The brush is then as good as new for the next coat.

Even these cheap brushes last a long time using this method.

[rp]

I never tried this with solvent based weldwood but with various water based stuff including hide glue giving the cab a quick seal coat with shellac (alcohol based) first sure helped the glue go on faster and thinner.