Tolex adhesive help please

[sixstringer]

Over the past few years I have covered a dozen or so cabinets with various recommended Tolex adhesives. Over time, many of the lap seams (tolex over Tolex, in the Fender style) come loose. Also the back panel Tolex begin to lift after being warmed by the amp tubes. After the glue lets go, the adhesive between the tolex surfaces is sticky but will not hold the joint together any longer. I've tried several different contact adhesives, the water-based glues from Mojo, AES, and Wilsonart. Also Dap contact cement. I have no problems using these adhesives on the flat surfaces or corners of the cabinets.

I've tried cleaning the Tolex to be covered in the joint with alcohol (to remove any oils on the surface) and still the lap joints begin to lift at the edge over time. Sometimes I can Superglue the edge back down, but sometimes repeated superglue beings to build up and look awful. I always use the adhesives are directed by the manufacturer, waiting for the surfaces to dry or tack up before mating the surfaces and never working in cold or wet weather. The only glue I know of that works consistently is hide glue and I hope to find a more convenient glue than that. Any advice you can offer is most appreciated.

[stretch2011]

I've covered 2 tweed cabs with high strength 3m spray glue and it works pretty good. I still staple around the slots for the tubes

[Phil_S]

If you are doing a lot of this type of work, the good stuff is sold in 5 or 10 gal cans, making it too expensive and the can too big. There is a good thread on this somewhere at TAG. Here: http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7936


Otherwise, I'll second 3M spray on adhesive, which I've used and can say I'm very pleased with the result.

[JMFahey]

FWIW Fender always used animal hide based glues, applied hot with Potdevin machines.
They also sell their proprietary glue in bulk.

Mesa uses the same, way beyond what a hobbyist needs or can afford.

See the Potdevin applying hot glue at 1:49 seconds.

http://youtu.be/6hRJqwhUCPQ

Incredibly even and fast.

Very strong and durable, unless the amp gets soaked in warm water (think tropical rain or Hurricane Katrina ) which is very unlikely.

Next lower step: solvent based contact cement, still very good.
I lightly wipe the plastic side which will be glued (under the lip) with a toluene or xylene soaked rag to prime and degrease it .
The cloth backed side does not need it, because cloth is porous and absorbs cement well.

Anything else , say water based contact cement or white carpenter's glue is not up to par.