Joining boards

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Phil_S
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Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:12 pm
Location: Baltimore, MD

Re: Joining boards

Post by Phil_S »

I'm pleased to report that I am past the "joining boards" stage. Thank you to everyone for advice, helpful hints, and encouragement. It's been a long journey, with many, many test cuts, experiments, etc. It takes practice to ramp up manual skills and to understand some of the not-so-obvious or even the obtuse (Porter Cable half blind dovetail jig.)

I finally got a good set of 3 small drawers from the PC jig. From that, I finally got the hang of how the corners work. Because the width of my boards was wrong for the spacing on that jig, following the instructions was never going to work -- opposite corners were going to half pin or half tail and that just wouldn't do. I wanted symmetrical corners that keep the joint blind from the front/back. Imagine, the nerve of me, to disregard the instruction book! I moved the left hand guide over a bit to make the "drawer side" (in a head cab, this is the short board) symmetrical to the cutting template. I cut off the last pin with a saw, resulting in a long one at the corner.

The pins and tails need a bit too much persuasion with the mallet. I will have to work on them with some sandpaper to ease fit. For a first time around, it's not too bad. There was some minor chip out that I'll have to work on, but that doesn't bother me any.

The top and sides are cut from one continuous board, side-top-side, so I think I managed to match them at the corners. The bottom is not as nice looking and not worth showing, IMO.

Next, I have to figure out how to make front and back panels without a band saw. I want to resaw for thin boards. There is a trick with the table saw, which will allow me 3", then flip end over end for another 3". I think I'll be able to get to about 3/8" and that should be good, I hope. I'll be working with a ~4.5" x 44" board. I need to resaw, then join them, this should be plenty of material for front and back. If all goes according to plan, I hope to book match them.

Edit: any hints on the best way to ease the fit of the dovetails? It seems I am having difficulty understanding where they are too tight. I had though a little bit of sandpaper would do the job, but they don't seem to be getting any better. Just more effort?
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Opps, the side is horizontal, top vertical
Opps, the side is horizontal, top vertical
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Phil_S
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Re: Joining boards

Post by Phil_S »

Ok then (seem to be talking to myself <shrug> that's OK). I found the proper persuader -- a big double cut file to reduce the size of the pins. This one gets into the grooves.
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TUBEDUDE
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Re: Joining boards

Post by TUBEDUDE »

Lookin' good Phil!
Tube junkie that aspires to become a tri-state bidirectional buss driver.
Geeze
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Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Joining boards

Post by Geeze »

Nicely done Phil!

The alignment issue is caused by jig movement or cutter movement between cuts. I find its a lot of paying attention to the jib and cutting tool. Not something I can do whilst distracted. Which brings you to the 'art' part of the woodworking - artfully fixing the oh craps!

When will you get to the finishing?

Russ
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Phil_S
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Re: Joining boards

Post by Phil_S »

Well, on the PC half blind jig, the directions say, if too tight, the cut is too deep. I figured, it would be so shallow, it would be silly, so I cut them too tight and used the persuader. Also, I did a bad job on the wide shoulder at one corner -- you can see daylight, more than I'd like. Thanks for the kind words. I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Today, I made front and back panels. I used the table saw to resaw a piece just under 1" thick and about 4.5" wide and 44" long. Resaw was so-so as you might imagine on a table saw where it is necessary to flip the board end over end. Boards were not of equal thickness; also not totally flat, but close.

The rip line glue edge wasn't good enough on one pair, so I had to set up a fence and use the router with a straight bit. Glue up is done, but it isn't pretty. I probably won't get to set up the router sled to level them until next weekend. I imagine I'll be left with 1/4" or 5/16" thickness, which really should be fine for front and back. I want to put some ventilation in them...maybe 3 slots 1/4".

To answer your question Russ, after all that stuff is done and the chassis is fitted, blocks for the front and rear installed, then I'll get to finishing. I'm going to figure it could be after we return from a visit to my brother-in-law for Thanksgiving. I wish I could make this go faster, but it is what it is!

Meanwhile I saw online a Sjoberg Smart Vise. This is just the thing I need, but it looked like a rip off to me. I have a vise that needs to be used. I think I can build one. I cut wood for it today, mostly 50+ year old Douglas Fir that came out of my roof when the tree fell on the house a few years ago. https://www.zoro.com/sjobergs-bench-vis ... lsrc=aw.ds Have a look. This is a portable vise. It's perfect for my outside work table, so I don't have to leave the vise outside and let is get rusty!
Geeze
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Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Joining boards

Post by Geeze »

Hi Phil,

Joints are always a challenge!

I don't know much about that style of vise. If you're concerned hit a few woodworking sites for review.

You'll laugh but this is my portable wood vise left over from my milling machine days, 62lbs of monster hold!

Russ
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M Fowler
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Re: Joining boards

Post by M Fowler »

Looking good Phil. :)
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JazzGuitarGimp
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Re: Joining boards

Post by JazzGuitarGimp »

Nice progress, Phil! The dovetails look nice, but I'm afraid I've chickened out on that approach. After seeing William Ng's box joint jig and sled, I'm convinced it will be less frustrating than trying to manage a dovetail jig. Kudos to you for sticking with it, I'm sure it just gets better / easier the more you do it.

I've ordered a 1/2" sheet of birch plywood to make my two sleds - should be here any day. Now if I could just "command the rain to STOP!" :-)
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cbass
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Re: Joining boards

Post by cbass »

Lookin good Phil !
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