[QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

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Bombacaototal
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by Bombacaototal »

Interesting interview with Robben Ford where he comments about mahogany ply (18min mark)
https://youtu.be/LO-QZNeIBYU

And an old post about woods http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... k&start=15
Haversidne1981
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by Haversidne1981 »

Bombacaototal wrote: Mon Nov 28, 2016 4:59 pm Wondering what is everyone's opinion of which one to use for a 2x12 cabinet

The poplar (a.k.a hardwood) is much lighter weight than the Ply? which I bought here https://sheetmaterialswholesale.co.uk/ It is closer to Pine but harder and dents very easily.

Both have different acoustic properties.

I own a Plywood cab and the guy who built it for me convinced me out of Poplar when I commissioned it. Now I am planning on getting a second 2x12 and wondering if I should go Poplar this time
There are few things a woodworker will ever face that are as confusing as plywood. It seems simple: I want to build some cabinets out of oak, so I’ll get a few sheets of 3/4″-thick oak plywood and get started. But when I go to buy it, the storm clouds come rolling in. Where do I buy it? What do I ask for? Do I want rotary cut or plain sliced? What grade? What core? How much thinner than 3/4″ will it be this time? Will the edges split if I try to put screws in it? Will the veneer be so thin that I sand through it with the first pass of the sander? Should I try the imported stuff? Can I remember the name of the imported stuff that I bought last time?

Is it just me, or does plywood get a little worse every time I buy it?

The first question to answer is this: Are you looking for something that looks like it belongs in a piece of fine furniture, or is utility your main concern? Plywood that looks nice, in a species such as cherry, oak or walnut, is graded and priced mainly on the quality and thickness of the face veneer. Hardwood plywood is considered to be an appearance product, as opposed to softwood plywood, which is considered a structural material. Different rules and grades are used for different types of plywood. Hardwood plywood has a distinct face and a distinct back. In a cabinet door, for example, you want the best appearance possible on the outside. On the inside, you still want it to look good, but small areas of burl, mineral streaks or sap wood won’t be the distractions they would be on a surface that is always exposed. For hardwood plywood, the grading system for the face veneer is designated by letters: A is the best and D is the worst. There is a different standard for backs: 1 is the best and 4 is the worst. A1 or A2, with plain-sliced veneer, is usually the best grade available for work that will receive a clear finish. Grades B and lower for faces, and 3 and lower for backs, are generally considered only suitable for paint-grade work. Rotary-cut veneer will look like plywood, rather than solid wood. You can probably get away with using rotary-cut veneer for something such as the interior of a cabinet, but it won’t look right on an exposed surface next to solid wood.

The grade should be stamped on the side of the sheet but it is often missing in imported plywoods. Expect to pay $75 or more for a 4′ x 8′ sheet of A2 plywood with plain-sliced veneer. The oak and birch plywood the big home-improvement stores had in stock (about $40) at the time of writing this was graded C3. The difference in price is mostly in the difference in the veneer. In addition to being a lower grade, the face veneer on inexpensive types of plywood can be as thin as 1/100″ compared to about 1/40″ on better material.
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statorvane
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by statorvane »

For a low cost wood poplar is a great wood to work with compared to pine. No knots, significantly less warp and cup and easily obtained in wider widths than pine.
This has been my experience. I have build four cabinets - 2x10" Bassman narrow panel (poplar), 4x10" Marshall slant (pine), 4x12" Marshall slant (ply) and Fender narrow panel style 1x15" cab (ply).

The pine was by far the worst to work with; about the same weight and hardness of poplar but without the sap. I found that clear poplar is cheaper than clear pine.

Ply and poplar - as far as construction - I did not see much advantage between the two. All mine are covered so the aesthetics of the wood was not important. I think the pine would have looked superior in a natural finish.
Last edited by statorvane on Fri Dec 18, 2020 9:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Geeze
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by Geeze »

Great replies from all!

Another wood option would be African mahogany - most likely a wood store product not a home store - generally on the lighter side available in wide widths seems to be in the middle of the resonance curve between a higher grade pine vs. the BB style plywood. Dyed orange and lacquered.

Image

If you plan to leave the poplar uncovered hit it with a black tea wash [10 bags in a cup or so of water] if it has the green & tan sections as it blends them together a bit. Tea washed and oiled.

Image

Please post your builds as I learn something every time - or steal something. :shock:

Russ
R,i,c,k
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by R,i,c,k »

Russ,

That is top drawer work, man

Like the wood choices, wood corners and natural stain idea.

I've heard walnut oil will polymerize (set up), but with the outside of the old bottle still sticky I've not risked it.

(I use pure tung oil).

May try the tea bag stain.
Geeze
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by Geeze »

When I oiled I used 33% mineral spirits and 66% boiled linseed oil as it will dry. I switched to lacquer - first brushed then I went to rattle can spray - as the oil dulled the wood grain as it aged and the gloss lacquer maintains the beauty of the grain better.

Russ
Redwood
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Re: [QUESTION] Birch Plywood vs Poplar vs Pine

Post by Redwood »

I am currently salvaging a large 1890 vintage pipe organ that was shipped to the west coast from Wisconsin in the mid 1980s and has been in storage ever since. The majority of its 786 pipes will be used for new builds or other organ restoration projects but all the largest pipes will likely be knocked down and the wood reclaimed. There may be a few oddballs in the collection but I'm given to believe most of it is poplar, milled well over a century ago and having spent over 8 decades played on a daily basis. I anticipate it will be far superior to any modern wood available for amp cabinets. If anybody is interested let me know.
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