1960 B build - the sickness continues....

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Geeze
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1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Geeze »

I cleaned my shop and the void spoke to me. Loudly and often. I have a 1960A built a couple of years ago and just had to have a B cab for the full stack appeal. This one has two types of African mahogany and zebra wood trim. I decided not to use the sapele as the cap.
DSC_0229.JPG
The main stick of AM wasn't long enough so I stuck in a cap of a contrasting AM.
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Splits on the end.
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Epoxy to the rescue.
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First major screw up - forgot about the ZW trim wood and foolishly [yet beautifully - gotta take solace where ever you can find it] notched the main carcass. Now a wider piece is used for the corner block.
DSC_0255.JPG
Russ
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by xtian »

Oh, boy.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
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Phil_S
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Phil_S »

Oh my :o
Full stack, huh? Are you playing the pavilion at <fill in medium-large outdoor venue>?
Geeze
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Geeze »

Phil_S wrote: Sun Aug 06, 2017 7:06 pm Oh my :o
Full stack, huh? Are you playing the pavilion at <fill in medium-large outdoor venue>?
It was either this or chase younger hot women - and I'm sadly low on the hottie bait. Mostly because I can.

Corner block in place.
DSC_0256.JPG
failed attempt to keep 'squirmy' wood straight. Zebra wood is not a happy wood - it loves to warp and cup after cutting.
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Needed to pull the front edge down and not move the back edge. Naturally this issue was determined AFTER the glue had been applied. Nothing like extra clamps and a crescent wrench to make wood behave.
DSC_0259.JPG
Russ
Geeze
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Geeze »

Never lend your camera to your son - 'But dad, how about a few more days!?!' I had to escalate to Grave Bodily Harm level. Cell phones are ok for photos but not my preferred.

All trim and corner blocks glued. This one shows some of the bottom where I generally use plywood. No sense in wasting beauty. Witness lines drawn to begin the 1" round over with an orbital sander. I start with 40 grit then 60/80/150/220 for the whole case. All joint parts are cut .020" 'proud' then sanded flat.
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Initial 1/2" 45° bevel sanded. This stick of zebra was challenging - even with the sanded round over I had tear out. A router would have been a cluster.
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Then progressively angled toward the flat side. Then the round over is sanded in.
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A view of the top.
Web image 00004.jpg
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Phil_S
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Phil_S »

Lookin' good. You already know this, in wood working the test of one's skill is in dealing with the goofs so they aren't noticed. You've done well.

I have a question about this picture, with the caption:
The main stick of AM wasn't long enough so I stuck in a cap of a contrasting AM.
I'm not understanding the joint. Did you simply cut the block so it's proud of the two pieces being connected, or is there something fancier than a little glue and clamps? I've got a few shorts I'd like to do something with. Given my lack of experience, I hadn't considered that a reliable joint can be made so simply.
Geeze
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Geeze »

Phil_S wrote: Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:01 pm Lookin' good. You already know this, in wood working the test of one's skill is in dealing with the goofs so they aren't noticed. You've done well.

I have a question about this picture, with the caption:
The main stick of AM wasn't long enough so I stuck in a cap of a contrasting AM.
I'm not understanding the joint. Did you simply cut the block so it's proud of the two pieces being connected, or is there something fancier than a little glue and clamps? I've got a few shorts I'd like to do something with. Given my lack of experience, I hadn't considered that a reliable joint can be made so simply.
HI Phil,

Sorry for the delayed response. I cut / milled the block and then evenly shimmed the two sides up about a 1/16" so the block would be proud on all four sides. Then ran it through a drum sander to get it close and finished with an orbital. I edge glue all sorts of cabs and haven't had any issues even with handles and heavy trannies or speakers.

My wood building buddy told me that with modern glues - Titebond II & III - the joint is stronger than the wood surrounding it. I thought bullcrap until I glued in pine bracing to support a cherry slant cab baffle. The next day I noticed [insert naughty words] the bracing was at the wrong angle. I thought 'No big, I'll just bash them out.' Hah. 2lb hammer, blocks with an inspired and vigorous bit of bashing later [more naughty words] those damn braces just laughed at me. Thank god for a shoulder plane to correct the angle.

I used dado joints, biscuit joints and they don't do anything more than the edge glue. If you threw them off a building maybe but I'm not in that habit.

Image

This was the first project I dyed orange and finished with a satin lacquer. The lacquer application was a lot easier than I thought. For finishing I clamp a pair of pine L brackets to my fab bench and 'hang' the cab on the brackets so I can access all four sides by 'rolling' the cab. I started on one side and worked my way around the cab in about 10 minutes. A bit of sanding with 400 grit and another coat was applied. I planned to put another coat on but FUGGIT! bit me and I put it together.

The yellow is light 'splash'.

Image

Image

Image

The office full power test. Yummy!

Image

The living room of the MAN cave.

Image

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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Coyotesgator »

Very Nice!
What Happened?

Who let the magic smoke out?
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by pompeiisneaks »

WOW outstanding work!

~Phil
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Roe »

how do the cab sound compared to the ordinary birch ply cabs?
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Geeze
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Geeze »

Roe wrote: Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:50 am how do the cab sound compared to the ordinary birch ply cabs?
I doubt there is much difference - though there will be the crowd that insists otherwise. I believe the amp is about 75%, the speakers are 20% and the rest is everything else. I built a pine TL-806 cab for a working guitarist who loves it so much he is afraid to put any kind of finish on the raw wood as he believes it will change the sound.

To REALLY test this a rigorous scientific process must be used -

1 - same size cabs allowing the hot swap of the speaker loaded baffle otherwise the test is flawed - speakers are like women they may have the same plumbing but they ain't the same. This is why a sound engineer listens to all the speakers in a cab to find the 'sweet' one. The same internal volume is a requirement as well for pressure 'loading' [there is a high falutin' scientific word that I can't remember] otherwise the test is flawed.

2 - same room, temp, humidity, BOP otherwise the test is flawed.

3 - most important - a spectrum analyser to actually record and visually compare the data. The mark one earball suffers from confirmation bias and other faults otherwise known as - the test is flawed.

In my unhumble opinion - no. It doesn't matter enough to matter. What really matters is does it sound good to you? I hate tolex and really like figured wood so I get the 'it sounds and looks great' all in one package.

Russ
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Phil_S
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Phil_S »

Geeze wrote: Sat Aug 19, 2017 5:56 pm
Phil_S wrote: Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:01 pm I have a question about this picture, with the caption:
The main stick of AM wasn't long enough so I stuck in a cap of a contrasting AM.
I'm not understanding the joint. Did you simply cut the block so it's proud of the two pieces being connected, or is there something fancier than a little glue and clamps? I've got a few shorts I'd like to do something with. Given my lack of experience, I hadn't considered that a reliable joint can be made so simply.
HI Phil,

Sorry for the delayed response. I cut / milled the block and then evenly shimmed the two sides up about a 1/16" so the block would be proud on all four sides. Then ran it through a drum sander to get it close and finished with an orbital. I edge glue all sorts of cabs and haven't had any issues even with handles and heavy trannies or speakers.

My wood building buddy told me that with modern glues - Titebond II & III - the joint is stronger than the wood surrounding it. I thought bullcrap until I glued in pine bracing to support a cherry slant cab baffle. The next day I noticed [insert naughty words] the bracing was at the wrong angle. I thought 'No big, I'll just bash them out.' Hah. 2lb hammer, blocks with an inspired and vigorous bit of bashing later [more naughty words] those damn braces just laughed at me. Thank god for a shoulder plane to correct the angle.

I used dado joints, biscuit joints and they don't do anything more than the edge glue. If you threw them off a building maybe but I'm not in that habit.
Hey Russ! I was in no hurry and I appreciate the reply. I hadn't considered it could be done so simply. As you know you can't do much with 12" so I got to overthinking how to join them and gave up on the idea until I saw you do this. It's a bit of good inspiration.

Outstanding work on that cab!

Phil
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stelligan
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by stelligan »

Killer Cabs! Enjoyed the thread.
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by M Fowler »

Great looking cabs love that red hue.
Roe
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Re: 1960 B build - the sickness continues....

Post by Roe »

Geeze wrote: Sun Aug 20, 2017 2:31 pm
Roe wrote: Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:50 am how do the cab sound compared to the ordinary birch ply cabs?
I doubt there is much difference - though there will be the crowd that insists otherwise. I believe the amp is about 75%, the speakers are 20% and the rest is everything else. I built a pine TL-806 cab for a working guitarist who loves it so much he is afraid to put any kind of finish on the raw wood as he believes it will change the sound.

To REALLY test this a rigorous scientific process must be used -

1 - same size cabs allowing the hot swap of the speaker loaded baffle otherwise the test is flawed - speakers are like women they may have the same plumbing but they ain't the same. This is why a sound engineer listens to all the speakers in a cab to find the 'sweet' one. The same internal volume is a requirement as well for pressure 'loading' [there is a high falutin' scientific word that I can't remember] otherwise the test is flawed.

2 - same room, temp, humidity, BOP otherwise the test is flawed.

3 - most important - a spectrum analyser to actually record and visually compare the data. The mark one earball suffers from confirmation bias and other faults otherwise known as - the test is flawed.

In my unhumble opinion - no. It doesn't matter enough to matter. What really matters is does it sound good to you? I hate tolex and really like figured wood so I get the 'it sounds and looks great' all in one package.

Russ
Thanks, even a spectrum analyzer will only help with sound, not response, right?
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4x12" w/H75s
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