The Amp Garage

Bill Moore wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2017 4:26 pm I've been using bisquits for a while now, and have had no problems, even with speaker cabs. I also figure mine with the top and bottom over the sides, thinking the chassis weight will be distributed while sitting.
My machine is a DeWalt I traded from a friend.

Bill,

yes I do the same but screw and glue. Top and Bottom over the sides

there's some talented people here on this forum for sure.

I'm envious of you all for having space and workshops etc I live in London where recently someone was renting their van out for someone to live in for $400/month......that's how valuable space is here...

MC

When I build my cabinets I use a straight router bits for making slots and ledges on the boards. This helps to accurately position all of the boards together. For primary fixation and compression the panels when gluing I use the screws as a temporary method. After fixing glue, I remove the screws and drill holes with a large drill. Next I filling glue to holes and hammering fluted 3/8″ hardwood dowel pins into the holes. I'm waiting for polymerization of the glue and then I leveling the surfaces and round out the edge and corners with a round router bits.

Alexander

Vinyl arrived, and she's all dressed up:

xtian wrote:Vinyl arrived, and she's all dressed up:

monkeymatic_odslite2_1.jpg

monkeymatic_odslite2_2.jpg

Nice job !

Fred, learning everyday!

Nice job on the cab @xtian! Good looking finished head.

I too drill the holes for the chassis after the cab is done. I make a template - cardboard for one off's or lexan for reuse - to align holes then clamp a piece of scrap to prevent tear out. I tend to build exactly one of a particular design and the planning and execution requirements of predrilling and other pesky tolerance necessities violate my OOPS! building style.

Russ

Wow very nice!!!The only thing about the Festool is those beech tendons are un breakable.They come in 6 sizes for the main domino cutter.Great for furniture building.no nails.They work great on the 45 degree miter.But they are a bit pricy,I think mine was 1100.00 with the tendons.I needed one or I would have stuck with biscuits.Awesome cab

Due to this thread I just bought myself a Makita Biscuit Joiner so I can avoid doing the super slow/painful finger jointing

Thanks for the heads up!

~Phil

xtian wrote: ↑Sat Nov 11, 2017 1:24 am Bisquits! I like them!

Makes aligning the edges during assembly very easy. Much quicker than dovetails.

I forgot to cut the cutout on the top for the controls until after I glued up the box. Dumb. Had to use a jigsaw.


IMG_8714.jpgIMG_8715.jpg

Aaron,
That is a nice looking cab! I am building my first and am trying to understand all of the pieces. There are 3 pieces attached to the side panel. I believe that the purpose of the 2 vertical pieces that are attached to the side are for the front and rear panels to butt up against. I can't figure out what the 3rd (horizontal) piece is for. I had assumed that the chassis rested on this piece but based on where the cross panel channel is cut I don't think that my assumption is correct. What does that piece do?

Thanks,
Don

Yes the horizontal rail is to support the chassis during installation.

So just to be clear, once the chassis is bolted in, will there be a gap that is the thickness of the crossbar between the horizontal support and the bottom of the chassis?

No, there will be a small gap only, created by raising the chassis toward the top as you tighten the screws.

xtian wrote: ↑Fri Feb 22, 2019 5:25 pm No, there will be a small gap only, created by raising the chassis toward the top as you tighten the screws.

Are you sure there is just a small gap and not a 3/4 inch gap between the bottom of the chassis and the top of the horizontal support? Maybe I am just missing something really obvious but that doesn't add up for me.

I'm assuming the cross bar is 3/4 inch wide.

The first pic shows that the channel that you routed for the crossbar is *above* the horizontal support piece. So if the bottom of the chassis, when screwed in, is above the cross bar then there has to be 3/4 inch between the bottom of the chassis and the top of the horizontal support piece doesn't there?

Later in the thread there is a pic of the back of the amp that seems to confirm the 3/4 inch gap that I would expect but the angle makes it hard to tell for sure.

The reason this detail is important to me is because I was thinking that the *top* of the routed channel that the cross bar goes in should be even with the *top* of the horizontal support. That way, when the chassis is slid in, there is only like a 1/8 or 1/16 of and inch gap between the top of the chassis and the top of the cabinet.

Yes, when you lift the chassis up into its final resting place, there is 3/4+" between the bottom of the chassis and the support rails.

I meant that there is a small gap between the bottom of the chassis and the hardwood (walnut in my case) cross bar.

You can certainly raise your support rails, but remember to allow clearance for vinyl, sheilding, protruding screw heads, whatever.

Aaron, thanks for all of the responses. That helps a lot.