Choice of wood finish?

[Phil_S]

I had to look it up!
What does BLO stand for?
Barbie Liberation Organization. BLO. Boiled Linseed Oil (finishing oil applied to wood and metal) BLO. Back Loop Only (crochet instructions)
LOL!
Thanks again for the great suggestions. There's always someone here who knows something. Amazing.

[Geeze]

I know some guitar and gun builders that use Truoil and are pleased with the results. Easy to apply and leaves a hardish surface. Another option would be to oil BLO/mineral spirits on top of a lightly sanded amber dye [pop the grain] and then put a glass top for hot tea nazi. I mention this as some species of walnut mar easier than others.

If you're not in a hurry look for a copy of Understanding Wood Finishing - Bob Flexner it covers every finish, issues with and best practices for application.

Russ

[Phil_S]

Russ, that wasn't the question I asked, but it WAS the question I should have asked! Book ordered! I think you must know how difficult it can be to select the right book. There are all sorts of so-called experts who write books on all manner of topics. It is difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff. The suggestion is much appreciated. Thanks.

[Phil_S]

I'm nearly finished with the book recommended by Russ. It's both informative and enlightening. The author discusses all kinds of finishes, including proper thinning and application. There are a couple of real surprises. He asserts, with what I think is considerable authority, that there is very little difference among most brands of the same type of finish. He allows that there are always a few brands that are superior in some way, some of the time. He's also very clear that when you find something you like, stick with it. The other big surprise is that frequently the directions on the can are flat out wrong and he shows pictures to prove it.

I'm still not sure exactly what I'll do, but I've changed my mind about polyurethane. The author at least partly addresses my objections to it as a fine finish by discussed thinning and proper application. It is possible to get a better result. I'm still weighing a number of other good suggestions offered, especially the bona floor finish. Waterlox is still in the running, too. Cbass makes an excellent point about not being able to spray. I don't have the equipment or the place to do it. I need something that can be brushed or wiped on, and I need to do it outside or it stinks up the house for days. On that account, it won't be warm enough outside for about another 4-6 weeks, so I've got some time to sort this out.

Thanks to all for a great discussion.

[RWood]

Marine spar varnish that I used to use on the mahogany woodwork on my boat that was outside in the rain, sun, walked on, bumped against, salt water, fish guts, and scrubbed with a stiff brush would still look new for a year. It would surely stand up to a teapot.

[Phil_S]

Marine spar varnish that I used to use on the mahogany woodwork on my boat that was outside in the rain, sun, walked on, bumped against, salt water, fish guts, and scrubbed with a stiff brush would still look new for a year. It would surely stand up to a teapot.

Yes, thanks, for that and it's a great observation. Before I read the book, I thought there was some benefit to using spar varnish instead of the regular stuff, that because it is suitable for outdoors, it is harder and more durable. The book was an eye opener. So, it turns out that spar varnish is made to be a little softer and more elastic (these are my feeble words, not exactly what is says in the book) to stand up to changes in temperature and other changes in the weather. In fact, it is not as hard as regular varnish, and that is what allows it to hold up better outside. I suspect, for what I am doing, spar would work just fine. I finished an outside door a while back using spar, and after a few years, it still looks pretty much like new. I was very pleased with the result, so I can understand your suggestion completely.

The American Craft Council show blew through town a few weeks ago, and my wonderful wife suggested we go see it. I could see the furniture and she could see the jewelery and fashion. A good time was had by both of us. I talked with a number of the craftsmen, and these guys were making very fine, high end furniture in many styles, all very pleasing and nothing you could buy in an ordinary furniture store. I made a point of asking about finish. Everyone one of them was finishing the furniture with lacquer. Some were specific, catalyzed lacquer, and the others I suspect were also using catalyzed lacquer. Given the excellent finishing job, it was reasonable to think they have a booth, spray rig, and the experience to get a terrific result. The finish work I saw was universally flawless.

In a sense, it was a let down. I might try to apply lacquer without spraying. It's possible to do it. I'm not confident, I'd get good result. I concluded, however, that it's OK to thin the polyurthane I get at the home despot, that brand doesn't much matter, and that I'd get a decent result if I applied it correctly. It's almost warm enough to work outside. Along with this suggestion, there are many others, all good ones. I will make a decision soon, and finish that table.

[Tony Bones]

I remember that you said there is no leftover scrap from that particular piece, but maybe you can find another similar board to experiment on.

[Phil_S]

Tony, funny you should say that. Through Craig's List, I found a guy who works at a saw mill. (Who knew there was a saw mill anywhere nearby?) He's a young guy who takes the off cuts and other waste. Much of it can be cleaned up and used. He sold me a small pile of wood several weeks ago for a very low price. (He asked for $30. I handed him $40 -- still a bargain price, and told him I didn't want any change. He added several boards to the pile. Go figure.) This included some not so great walnut 4x4's. I can sacrifice some to test. I'm really glad you mentioned it. I'm not sure I'd have thought about it. Thanks!

[stelligan]

Late to the party.
If you have not completed this, I can highly recommend Waterlox as Martin has already. Easy to apply and looks great. Durability is good.

[MakerDP]

I know some guitar and gun builders that use Truoil and are pleased with the results. Easy to apply and leaves a hardish surface.
Russ

I have recently discovered the joy of Tru Oil. Sooo easy to apply but it takes a long time to build up. But then again, what proper finish doesn't either take either a long time to build up or cure?

[Tony Bones]

For anyone that might be interested, used copies of the book recommended by geezer (Understanding Wood Finishing - Bob Flexner, Donald Bain) are available for less than $5 including shipping through AbeBooks.com. Abebooks is a website that brings together many used booksellers in one place. It's a great resource.

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Search ... &kn=&isbn=

[Geeze]

I might try to apply lacquer without spraying. It's possible to do it. I'm not confident, I'd get good result. I concluded, however, that it's OK to thin the polyurthane I get at the home despot, that brand doesn't much matter, and that I'd get a decent result if I applied it correctly. It's almost warm enough to work outside. Along with this suggestion, there are many others, all good ones. I will make a decision soon, and finish that table.

Lacquer with a high solvent content is generally easy to apply with a brush - I did several 4x12 cabs - you can sand in between coats with 220 and polish it if you so desire. I tend to buff with 0000 steel wool and call it a day. Down sides - scratches [but easy to fix] and don't leave soft plastics in contact as they react and mar the finish.

I just built a wormy cherry and walnut trim coffee table and will apply polyurethane of the indoor variety probably with a brush as it cures faster - being the impatient fool fast is handy.

Russ

[Phil_S]

Russ,
Thank you for the good advice. I would never have guessed about reactive materials. I think you have convinced me to use polyurethane. It is the safe choice. BTW, Flexner's book was some of the best education I've received for very little cost. How the heck would someone know that materials can be thinned, what thinner to use, and that directions on the can are frequently wrong or inaccurate? Another key recurring theme seems to be the way he encourages the reader to find a finish that he likes and that it's OK to stick with it, not paying too much attention to this brand or that, basically because he says they typically get the basic chemical components from the same places.

It seems the latest edition for the Flexner book is dated 2010, suggesting it is current through 2009 given the delay between editing and printing. I imagine in the last 10 years things have changed in the industry, particularly in response to environmental concerns and laws. That aside, much of the information is still quite valuable.

BTW, the other day, I needed to finish something quickly, so I bought a can of water-based polyurethane. Really, it was much better than I had anticipated and was decent looking when I was done. It seems the trick is to mix with a stick and be careful not to allow bubbles to form in mixing or brushing. [1] As for brushing, the basic rule is no different from, for example, painting a house. The quality of the brush matters. Dry time to sand and recoat was about 1/2 hour. I was working outside -- a nice day, temp was about 80F and low humidity, a rare day for Baltimore.

[1] I like to watch Matt Cremona on youtube. He amuses me. He's a good woodworker and makes terrific looking cabinets and furniture with good technique. He also built a huge band saw mill and started an urban logging business basically obtaining big (I mean big -- 10-12' long x 40-60" diameter) logs for free and milling them into slabs. Anyhow, the other day, he finished something in water-based poly and got skewered by his fan base for shaking the can ;-} I think maybe it was his first time using water-based finish. Even an amateur like me cringed when I saw that.

--Phil

[dorrisant]

Great info guys... I ordered a copy of the book for $3.50. Score!

[Geeze]

Thank you for the good advice.

So, pics?

Russ