EVM 12S Installation

[Bombacaototal]

As a disclaimer I have only used Celestion and Eminence up until now and have been fairly used to soldering the leads onto the speakers.

I recently acquired a EVM 12S and have been struggling with the push method. I have stripped down the stranded wire and tried different gauges and number of strands but cannot seem to make the push in system to work, as it seems the wire is always thicker than the red and black push ins.

I am tempted on soldering the leads but before doing that I just wanted to check up on how to approach this

[sluckey]

18 AWG works fine for me...

[xtian]

You understand you must depress the buttons firmly, THEN insert the wire into the hole that opens?

[sluckey]

I strip the ends of the wires about 3/4". Make sure the strands are neatly twisted. Then tin about 1/8" of the wires, just the tips, not the entire 3/4" of exposed wire. This keeps the wires from fraying and also makes it very easy to insert the wires. And the spring loaded terminals can still get a good bite on the untinned wire.

[Bombacaototal]

Thanks Xtian and Steve. Stupid me, I was wrapping around like one would on a turret, and completely missed the fact that it had a hole opening

I am glad I asked.

I have twisted, stripped down and tinted the tip. Will attempt soon and revert back!

Many thanks!

[Bombacaototal]

Worked great! Many thanks!

Just need to wait for the correct mounting screws now which should be here soon

By the way, how tight do you make the screws. I am used to the back screw nuts and have used the link below as reference but with the normal screws this is new for me

https://www.scumbackspeakers.com/mount.html

[ER]

Over tightening can be an issue, I had one guy bring me a constipated Princeton that had been modded a bunch and besides messing with the power supply and negative feedback, de-torquing the speaker nuts was one of the key things that let that amp really open up. They guy had a green back in there tightened down like lug nuts on a dump truck.

It's less of an issue with the stiff cast EV frames than stamped steel, but fairly snug but not tight should do it. There's a lot of weight in those magnets, so I always go 3/4" baffle and relatively snug t-nuts for rear mounted EVs, and 4 edge blocks and t-nuts for front mounting like in the TL cabs, they've been my speaker of choice for 35 years now.

I do all of the suggestions as above, tin the tips etc., also when I install my wires on the EVs, I give them a little slight "wiggle/tug" so the spring and terminal can really seat and bite into the wire. Sometimes they'll slip right out and you want to redo it till they don't, I don't know if it's from the spring binding up, or the wire contact itself, usually it's good...but every once in a while. You'll feel them seat into place and "bite" into the softer copper, better contact and less likely to accidentally pull out, especially if you stow switches, cables, etc. in the cab.

[Bombacaototal]

Over tightening can be an issue, I had one guy bring me a constipated Princeton that had been modded a bunch and besides messing with the power supply and negative feedback, de-torquing the speaker nuts was one of the key things that let that amp really open up. They guy had a green back in there tightened down like lug nuts on a dump truck.

It's less of an issue with the stiff cast EV frames than stamped steel, but fairly snug but not tight should do it. There's a lot of weight in those magnets, so I always go 3/4" baffle and relatively snug t-nuts for rear mounted EVs, and 4 edge blocks and t-nuts for front mounting like in the TL cabs, they've been my speaker of choice for 35 years now.

I do all of the suggestions as above, tin the tips etc., also when I install my wires on the EVs, I give them a little slight "wiggle/tug" so the spring and terminal can really seat and bite into the wire. Sometimes they'll slip right out and you want to redo it till they don't, I don't know if it's from the spring binding up, or the wire contact itself, usually it's good...but every once in a while. You'll feel them seat into place and "bite" into the softer copper, better contact and less likely to accidentally pull out, especially if you stow switches, cables, etc. in the cab.

Thank you very much for the helpful information. I have committed the mistake of over tightening a speaker in the past and known exactly what you mean about the constipated sound.
Yes I have a 3/4” baffle, 4 t-nuts and the rest are wood screws and thanks for pointing it out. Ok, snug but not tight, I will aim for that.
I also did the wiggle test!