New Build: Ceriatone Replica OTS 50W

[davebolden44]

tip, anything you can solder to the jacks before you install them in the amp helps too.

[pompeiisneaks]

heater wires are the last thing I put in an amp. to each his own but you are building an obstacle course. good luck with your build.

odd, they're often the first I do, but I lay mine down on the chassis and send them away from the sockets.

To each his own

Phil

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk

[davebolden44]

Depends on how you build. Ken laid his down but he had much more real estate. Howard had his flying in the air. If one doesnt mind fishing underneath them and manuvering a soldering iron around them great. D styles have a lot going on in there and filament wires are known to cause hum so its good to keep them up away from everything else. Again, my opinion fwiw

[dwietzel]

Thanks for the great discussion everyone.
Actually I just positioned the wires so no solder in place yet. So I could potentially remove if they become problematic.
This is only my third build.
First two were the Deluxe Tweed (5E3) and Tweed Bassman (5F6A) kits from Boot hill amps whose kit prices are amazing. Both amps are serving me very well.
Compared to those chassis I feel like I am swimming in an ocean
But as someone mentioned there is a lot going on in this build.
Think I will leave the wires unsoldered for now as I progress.

[davebolden44]

Heck yeah buddy, wish you the best. You will love it when its done

[erwin_ve]

On what to do first: http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4657. That particular topic helped me to build my first ODS.

[dwietzel]

Thanks erwin for the link. Decided to go with this order:

1. Mechanical assembly with screws, threaded stand-off's, tube sockets, Terminal Strips, and ground lugs first.

Build your boards, and connect all the leads to the boards with an additional 1-2" of lead just in case, since the screws are already there, hold your boards in place to make sure you get long enough leads BEFORE you clip

2. Install relay supply board, route wires along the back of the chassis- these are the longest runs of wire in the amp. Install and wire footswitch jack, manual/pedal switches, also wire up the voltage regulator and pilot lamp on the "Lamp end".

3 Install Bias supply/ rectifier board, and bias pot. Route wires along the relay switch leads, bind together with zip ties, leaving an area unbound to attach the output of the bias pot to the preamp board later.

4. Install OT and Choke, Wire power tube sockets: Screen grid leads first, plate leads, cathode resistors(or wire if you don't use 1ohm's to ground), pilot lamp power assembly, screen resistors, grid stopper resistors & Bus, attach OT plate leads.

5. Install FET board with Power lead(leave extra length for routing).

6. Route shielded wires: If you are using coax solder the shields to the back of their respective pots, if you are using foil shield Install the pots and ground bus. Wire the input jack.

7. Wire the switches, pots, and PAB relay, Install leads from Relay board grounds to Manual/pedal switches

8. Install the preamp board with flying leads attached, Wire from v1 toward power tubes, then wire the other side of the board starting with the grid leads/ bias supply lead(routing it along the back of the chassis) Wire presence, then master volume. Wire shielded leads for OD Drive and volume, wire tone control leads.

9. Wire channel relay

10 Install power supply board and wire (all leads should be in place by this time and just need to be attached) and wire stand-by switch.

11. Wire Up OT Secondary (This step can take place anytime after v2 and v3 are wired with plate, grid, and cathode leads) Impedance selector, and speaker Jacks.

12 Mount PT and wire B+, Bias Supply, Grounds, and filament LEads.

13. Install twisted filament leads

14 Install power cord and wire Power switch, and fuse holder ( I don't EVER wire the death cap, if you choose to it is your perogative)

15 Install fuse

16. Check all Grounds, and leads for continuity, take your time and go over each lead to make sure it is wired correctly.

17. Plug into a current limiter or variac and fire it up

18 If everything is good, fire it up at full AC and check voltages

19. If everything is good, Install tubes, bias, and give her a listen!

[dwietzel]

1. Mechanical assembly with screws, threaded stand-off's, tube sockets, Terminal Strips, and ground lugs first.

I believe I may have the wrong type of switches for the footswitch, I need another fuse holder that mounts to the bottom of the chassis.

Does anyone else see something missing or incorrect type?

Hardware 1.jpg

Hardware 2.jpg

[davebolden44]

I think those switches will work fine. they are spdt and most layouts use dpdt but they tie the lugs together.

[dwietzel]

Thanks Dave.

Also, the FET jack shows as a stereo jack. Supply had two different kinds, shorted and switched:

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/j ... s-switched
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/j ... s-shorting

From what I could find

A shorting jack is used e.g. on guitar amp inputs, to prevent hum/clicks when a jack is inserted or removed. It shorts (or can be wired to do so) the tip to ground when nothing is inserted.

A switching jack can be anything. Make or break contact(s). e.g headphones jack with speaker disconnect contacts.

Looks like more than just a short to ground. Can someone confirm I need a Switching Jack here?

FET Input.jpg

[davebolden44]

3 conductor switched like a switchcraft 14b. I find that staring at an actual schematic helps you to understand to fet grounding/switching function. I bought all switchcraft jacks for my d style as I dont care for the plastic ones provided

[dwietzel]

2. Install relay supply board, route wires along the back of the chassis- these are the longest runs of wire in the amp. Install and wire footswitch jack, manual/pedal switches, also wire up the voltage regulator and pilot lamp on the "Lamp end".

Do I need to bolt the regulator to the chassis and if so do they make them with longer legs so I can reach the terminal strip?
Do I need to use liquid heat sink as well?
Is it OK to wire wrap the footswitch to the heater wire for the light?

Thanks

Relays - Regulator.jpg

[norburybrook]

I don't use any thermal paste but I bolt it to the chassis so it uses it as a heat sink. to be honest if you've got 6v or 12v going into the regulator that is 6 or 12v then it' s not working that hard anyway.


you can bend the legs gently to splay them out so they go into the strip. Put the legs through the bottom holes not the actual terminals at the top.

Marcus

[davebolden44]

if the legs arent long enough you can pry the terminal strip back toward the legs. I did that and mounted the regulator on a standoff and it worked out

[dwietzel]

Thanks for the quick replies!