My Dumbleator

[ToneMerc]

Board set

[Structo]

Could building a d-lator be a good entry level into building? I got the D-clone already so I would like to build the d-lator by myself instead of waiting for ceriatone'sto come out or just buying one.


If any body has a build of materials and a some mouser part #'s I would greatly appreciate it? (I haven't searched for it yet)

I already have been skimming threw Funk's step by step and keeping up with Structo's build so far so I think I could do it.The only thing I
would have to do is find a little bit more on making the boards etc.
I do have the knowledge of basic electronics and do have the resource's/tools


Thanks to all you nice folks on the here for having this info available

I seemed to have a bit of trouble on this one because I used a lower B+ voltage. So the dropping string was different than shown.
The Fender Reverb PT puts out around 240vac x 1.4= 336-340vac.

The one Funk and others have used puts out 135vac but they use a voltage doubler rectifier so their end voltage was around 378-380.

As long as you remember the target voltages on the plates and cathode follower, you will be fine.

I ended up using the 1/8" G10 from Hoffman.
I couldn't find my power saw so I hacked on it to get it to the right size.
I wised I had used the 1/16" stuff, that is plenty thick for these small boards.
Between AES and Hoffman, I think I am into this about $180-200.
That's not counting things I already had like wire, solder, hardware.

If you want to get into amp building you should buy your wire from Apex Jr. as he has about the best prices on good Teflon wire and small shielded cable that is ideal for this type build.

Do you already have a D style amp with the preamp and poweramp jacks on the back panel?

[boldaslove6789]

Yes I do have a HRM Bluesmaster that has the skyline EQ with pre out and pwr in jacks - and it was built by Jon Mernyk at Mill Creek Audio from PA
I had found his information on the Ceriatone website and contacted him to build my amp, I have never built an amp but am going to start with the d-lator..
Thank you again for everyone's help & BE WARNED I am sure I will have lots of questions!

[Structo]

Cool!

Are you happy with the tone you are getting from your BM?

What speakers do you play it through?

If I can be of any help just give a shout out.

[boldaslove6789]

Well the clean side ,yes. The OD side Is a little different,I have only had the amp for about 2 weeks so I can't really judge yet but the OD isn't quite what I had in mind. In the future I am hoping to meet up with the builder and further tweak.

I am using a old boogie labeled Evm-12-l in a sealed back cab
with so-so results. I think I need to put the EV in a thiele cab or a ported 1x12. I also have a g-1265 and a g-1285 in a Avatar d-style ported 2x12 but they both sound thin compared to the Ev in the 1x12.

I have played the amp nonstop since I got it and I am slowly coming around to the tone.I come from playing Blackface fender amps and got rid of a Fuchs train 45(t-wreck) so D-syle is very inviting to me.I just am hearing all these different clips and really can't compare my amp to any of them so far.I just am not getting the d-style tone. I got the BM because of the clean I could get but I think I was looking for more of a Non HRM OD.

[Structo]

Ok, I played the amp some more last night and a couple things stand out to me.

The first bright cap on the drive control, .001uf is very bright and not really useful.

The second bright on the Recovery Output doesn't seem to add much if any brightness at all.

So I may tweak those values.

I did end up adding the 220K/250pf on the amp jacks per #124.
I can't decide if I am hearing anything from that or not.
But that is only in play when the loop is unplugged.


About the Loop controls.
Where do you set the Drive control for unity? Is that at max CW?

I've basically referred to the Kleinulator instructions in regards to using the controls. I would assume it is similar in regards to the settings.
It uses 250KA pots. At least I have a reference for it.

[JimiB]

But that is only in play when the loop is unplugged.

I believe that is backward. In the pics of #124 the only thing conected to the hot of the send jack it the resistor/cap combo. The send wire is tied to the switch on the return jack (where the other end of the resistor/cap is) so in order for signal to get to the send it goes thru the resistor cap but when nothing is plugged in the signal goes straight to the return. I think this is there to accelerate the highs a bit to compensate for the cables in the loop. Also wouldn't this pad the signal going to the loop a bit?

[Structo]

Thanks for that, I was wrong in the way I was looking at that combo and switching jack.

What is bizarre is I really don't notice much change in the tone with that there.

I also changed the bright cap on the Master to 15pf, I may need to up that to 30pf.

Before I built this loop I had an Ironsounds SS loop in and I had a 47pf on the Master.

[CHIP]

Tom, what difference did you notice when you changed the master bright cap from 47pf to 15pf?

[Structo]

Less bright!

I may up that to 30-40pf as I dial in the D'Lator.

[Structo]

Here is the final schematic for my build.
I removed one 47uf cap from the filtering after Tony recommended it.
It was too much for this circuit.
So now there is the rectifier, choke, 47uf, 30uf and 30uf.

I also added a standby switch.

I was having some extreme buzzing, I thought it was the tube, replace tube, worked for a while then the buzz was back.
I noticed if I pinched the two shielded runs from the Recovery pots to the board, that it went away. So my fingers were having a capacitance effect or something.

Anyway, after trying several things, I decided it was probably a ground loop.
I snipped the shield wire on the Recovery Input cable that was grounded to the front buss wire and poof! Gone.

The .001uf bright cap is way too much so I am going to try a 500pf cap there as recommended.

[Tonegeek]

But that is only in play when the loop is unplugged.

I believe that is backward. In the pics of #124 the only thing conected to the hot of the send jack it the resistor/cap combo. The send wire is tied to the switch on the return jack (where the other end of the resistor/cap is) so in order for signal to get to the send it goes thru the resistor cap but when nothing is plugged in the signal goes straight to the return. I think this is there to accelerate the highs a bit to compensate for the cables in the loop. Also wouldn't this pad the signal going to the loop a bit?

I am thinking Structo had it right. I have 2 #124 schematics that show the RC filter is only active when the loop is unplugged. (see odourboy's 124 schematic in the files section)

[Tonegeek]

Tom,
I used dry transfer letters on a Twin I modded in 1988. I take good care of my stuff but still there was no top coat applied, just the bare letters. Heres what they look like after 22 years.

[Structo]

Those held up well.

Do you know where to buy them anymore?

[ChrisM]

Those held up well.

Do you know where to buy them anymore?

+1