Chassis Update

[Funkalicousgroove]

OK Fellas, I am still working with the metal shop on the new chassis, and the shop I'm talking to may be able to make matching circuit boards. The Pre amp board wil be pre-drilled, but the PCB's will have to be etched by the end user. Unfortunateley it's looking like these may take longer than July.


I'd like to put a Logo (Not a Dumble logo) on them, so if the folks who want them could give some suggestions I will pick my 5 favorites and then we will vote on the best one.

[toneman]

Thanks for the update Funk,......... ToneHeaven Amps......

[HiGain]

Sorry to be confused, but is the preamp board a PCB, or just the PS and relay boards?

Also, it might be nice to provide a couple extra switch holes in the back of the chassis for some extra switching options (HRM, PAB, Local feedback, etc.) Would this be possible?

Thanks.

Jake

[Funkalicousgroove]

nope, I am not making any changes to the chassis, you'll have to drill your own extra holes. These chassis will be pretty Dead-on 90's ODS with an impedance selector and no convenience outlet. Drilled/punched for Fender Twin Trannies. You can always drill your own holes, look at a BF Fender chassis, they're full of extra holes.


The power supplies, relays, and FET are PCB. You don't have to get them, I just thought I'd make them available if the pricing is reasonable.

['67_Plexi]

Do you have the HxWxD diameters. Im having some work done in the cab shop and can add this extra cab order in to providing I know the basic dimensions.

['67_Plexi]

...in anticipation to getting a chassis Hope you have them soon.

[skyboltone]

I for one don't need PCBs, extra holes, or nothin' fancy. I just want one of those beautiful powder coated silkscreened chassis. Now. Waaa! Oh, and I would prefer mine without a logo if you don't mind.

Dan

[Funkalicousgroove]

I can do them with no logo's too, is that the general consensus?

[ampdoc1]

Funk,

I'd prefer no logo myself. I build most amps for friends who wanna put something personal on there!
I'm glad to hear you're gonna do the preamp board(s). I have had terrible luck trying to cut my boards. The garolite always flakes and splits. Tried a new blade with increased teeth,..no difference.

DEH

[Funkalicousgroove]

I always cut it on my table saw and use a finish cut blade, comes out great.

[Robert]

I always tape the section I'm going to cut, draw my line on the tape and then cut with a fine toothed blade. Comes out very clean.

[ampdoc1]

I've tried both of these and just can't get a good cut. It may be my table saw is not "steady". I think my dad bought it in the 1950s.

DEH

[Allynmey]

Hi all, I use a Dewalt Miter saw and it works great...razor edge cuts. A chop saw will always cut crosscuts better.

Allyn

[Luthierwnc]

For ripping garolite I use a fingerboard jig on the tablesaw. Glue a mitre-slot runner to the bottom some MDF scrap. Rip it so the new edge runs exactly along the blade. Screw the garolite down to the jig and rip it. The tight edge will minimize the tearout.

Important warning note. Garolite will throw sparks so clean out the tablesaw waste area and don't use your dust collector.

It will ruin a bandsaw blade (trust me).

Skip

[Bob-I]

These chassis will be pretty Dead-on 90's ODS with an impedance selector and no convenience outlet. Drilled/punched for Fender Twin Trannies.

Do you have any drawings of the chassis?