Shielding a Dumble Cab
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Shielding a Dumble Cab
I've got my mostly completed Dumble build sitting here with a completed Dumbleator, now I need to get the trannies, tubes, and build the cab. I'm going to be building my cab either next weekend or the one after, and I had a question about shielding the cab.
Is shielding an issue with Dumbles?
Where's the best place to get the shielding material in the US? I'm only doing at most one amp a year, so I don't need too much...
Thanks!!!
Is shielding an issue with Dumbles?
Where's the best place to get the shielding material in the US? I'm only doing at most one amp a year, so I don't need too much...
Thanks!!!
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Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
For what you need I'd just get a roll of copper sheilding tape from StewMac and just put it on the underside of the cab top providing it's a top mount.
Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
How about a roll of that aluminum tape in the hardware stores?
Mark
Mark
Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
I've got a roll of that Aluminium Foil Duct Tape (the real metal stuff) here already. Do you think that would be good enough?M Fowler wrote:How about a roll of that aluminum tape in the hardware stores?
Mark
- martin manning
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Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
My ODS has been running fine without any shielding. I've been slow to build a cab for it, mostly because it is very playable as-is bolted into a cradle with a plexiglass top (and it looks cool, too!). IIRC from the photos #124's cab had no shielding. Does anyone know about other D amps?
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Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
Mine runs fine without any shielding as well. At least at home. It has a cabinet with shielding, but it never seems to be in it. Somebody can't stop tweaking the damn thing long enough to put it in the cab. This works at home, but I wonder what will happen when I put it in a noisy environment with those damn neon signs hanging everywhere? At that point I would suspect that I might find shielding necessary. So why not just do it?
Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
My head shell has a piece of aluminum flashing sheet metal.
It's pretty thin and is stapled to the top.
Then the chassis when bolted in contacts it on the bare chassis lips.
You can find that flashing at any home improvement store.
If you have a pair of heavy duty scissors, you can trim it to size.
It's pretty thin and is stapled to the top.
Then the chassis when bolted in contacts it on the bare chassis lips.
You can find that flashing at any home improvement store.
If you have a pair of heavy duty scissors, you can trim it to size.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
Somebody posted pics of a wooden sided amp chassis a bit ago, and it was only shielded on the signal side.
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Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
Aluminum tape for duct work is great and real cheap at home depot. You need to make sure it touches the chassis (to ground the tape) so it will work. You can use it to shield your guitar too. Good stuff
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- David Root
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Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
I've built three, they're all in head cabs without shielding and I've had no problems with them.
One of them has also been exposed to fluorescent lightng, not real close up, but no problem there either.
One of them has also been exposed to fluorescent lightng, not real close up, but no problem there either.
Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
Go to the hobby store or on the web and buy aluminum tooling foil (it's like a quadruple thickness aluminum foil). It's around $8 for a 1' X 25' roll. Cut to size and attach with contact cement.
Former owner of Music Mechanix
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- Luthierwnc
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Re: Shielding a Dumble Cab
I contact cement aluminum roof flashing too -- usually with a couple staples.
Mostly I want to add that if you do use something rigid, it is going to want to pull away from the surface when you repunch the bolt holes -- especially since they are near the edges. Rather than try to line-up pre-drilled holes, I just C-clamp a butcher block to the cab to absorb the pressure. I also use a brad-point wood bit that cuts with the outside edges so the aluminum doesn't try to spin and tear out.
FWIW, Skip
Mostly I want to add that if you do use something rigid, it is going to want to pull away from the surface when you repunch the bolt holes -- especially since they are near the edges. Rather than try to line-up pre-drilled holes, I just C-clamp a butcher block to the cab to absorb the pressure. I also use a brad-point wood bit that cuts with the outside edges so the aluminum doesn't try to spin and tear out.
FWIW, Skip