Larry carlton ported/sealed EVM-12-L cab made

[Colossal]

Very nice work on that cab by the way Marcus. Interesting about the sonic differences with the Larry cab versus the Thiele.

[norburybrook]

thanks.

also aesthetically , the Larry cab is the same dimensions as the head...not a coincidence.......the thiele is small and looks silly with an amp on top of it.

here it is at the moment in use this week in the studio.

DSC_1099.JPG

going to recover the #102 to match after my holiday next week.

m

[MakerDP]

I'll mention the fact that for speaker cabs (and my amp heads if they're tolexed) there is absolutely no need to do any fancy joints if you're using 18mm(3/4) plywood. I just screwed and glued, the front baffle gives the whole cab rigidity so it's a very simple thing to make with basic hand tools. I used P38 quick dry car body filler to fill over the countersunk screw holes , then a quick sanding and routing of edges.

Marcus

i would tend to agree with this statement. I wasted a lot of money and time trying to perfect my dovetail technique and finally gave up. Now I just use a Kreg pocket-hole system with good wood glue. They are extremely strong joints, almost entirely self-righting, and the baffle does indeed make it so strong it will never break under reasonable (ab)use - including pickup-truck loadouts by unknown individuals. SO simple to do too. Only thing is you have to be very careful rounding the edges along the joints so you don't go down into the tips of the screws.

Works great with just plain old solid pine and poplar too, not just with plywood.

After extensive use of the Kreg system I have also formed the opinion that Congress needs to pass a law banning Phillips-head screws and make the Robertson-head the National Standard!!!

[norburybrook]

Thanks, just checked out the kreg system and it looks great. I think I'm going to buy the basic K3 and some 1 1/4 screws .

M

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[andresound]

My 2c worth. I built 2x TL EV cab's and was impressed when loaded with EV. However... the Dumble "rear oval" open back speaker design from this forum sounds much bigger than the theile design. My go to small cab

Andre,

I have done a lot of reading on this. I have long considered a pair of Thiele TL806s for a very compact stereo rig. I have read that they are directional but have a huge, clear sound with exceptional punch. I have EVs and like them. For me, it's not about volume, but the stereo 3D spread and bubble. Now, in a smallish room, an open backed cab(s) can have that music-from-everywhere sound because of room reflections and dispersion. So for you, do you feel that your choice for a D-open back being better for your application is based on the room size or just the aural qualities the D-style open backed design brings versus the Thiele/EV?

What speaker are you using with your Dumble open back?

I built the 806 cabs (built 2 of them) exactly to spec from the EV tech data. They do have fibre wool as designed and are balanced sounding. I have 2 EVI 12's for them (150w Version of the EVM). I also tried the my mid 70's EVM 12L in them. But somehow the Dumble design is "bigger" sounding. I believe you are correct in the "sound from everywhere" scheme of things.

Next will be the front ported cab discussed here

BTW, the theile's sound shite with anything other than an EV speaker. Go figure

[didit]

[...] Robertson-head the National Standard!!!

It is, north of 49th. Admire as example vintage '60s & '70s Garnet amp cabinetry.

Best .. Ian

[MakerDP]

Thanks, just checked out the kreg system and it looks great. I think I'm going to buy the basic K3 and some 1 1/4 screws .

M

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I've used it to build bookcases and garage cabinets too. I absolutely love it. Lots of Kreg system inspiration here... https://www.buildsomething.com/

[JazzGuitarGimp]

I am using the Kreg system to build a six foot long kitchen cabinet. I've done over 200 pocket screws already and I'm not quite done with it. Great system. But you need to be real careful with making face frames; a face clamp needs to be securely set so that it covers both pieces of wood at each corner joint when you put the screw in. Otherwise, the two pieces will drift and cause an uneven joint. Don't ask me how I know this....

[norburybrook]

I am using the Kreg system to build a six foot long kitchen cabinet. I've done over 200 pocket screws already and I'm not quite done with it. Great system. But you need to be real careful with making face frames; a face clamp needs to be securely set so that it covers both pieces of wood at each corner joint when you put the screw in. Otherwise, the two pieces will drift and cause an uneven joint. Don't ask me how I know this....

Ah..good point, didn't think about that. I imagine a set square around the outside would do, no?

I'm going my head cab tomorrow so will post some finished pics of the two together.



Marcus

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[JazzGuitarGimp]

I am using the Kreg system to build a six foot long kitchen cabinet. I've done over 200 pocket screws already and I'm not quite done with it. Great system. But you need to be real careful with making face frames; a face clamp needs to be securely set so that it covers both pieces of wood at each corner joint when you put the screw in. Otherwise, the two pieces will drift and cause an uneven joint. Don't ask me how I know this....

Ah..good point, didn't think about that. I imagine a set square around the outside would do, no?

Actually no. The first time I did this, I used only a corner clamp, and that's when I had problems. It's hard to describe the misalignment with just words in a way that makes sense. Imagine you have a joint in a corner clamp, and you're ready to insert the screws. Say it's laying flat on a table. Now, squat down to lower your perspective so that your eyes are level with the wood. The misalignment happens between the two pieces in the vertical plane. I think this is because the screw is not going straight into the wood, but at an angle. When the two pieces of wood are pulled tight to one another, the piece accepting the pointy end of the screw wanders up. Once my first face frame was built, I would have had to take a belt sander to the outside face to make the four pieces lie in the same plane. So, in addition to the corner clamp, I suggest you use a face clamp, and tighten it down _tightly_.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/produc ... 7_1000.jpg

[norburybrook]

Thanks, that makes sense. I think I'll stick with my old fashioned method of screws and glue with filler [emoji16]

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[MakerDP]

Yeah if you are doing face frames that clamp is essential.

[JD0x0]

I'm curious as to what Hz the ported cabs are tuned to

[andresound]

Me too!

[ChopSauce]

BTW, the theile's sound shite with anything other than an EV speaker. Go figure

It looks like everyone does not agree upon that point