ODS #183 PCB build.

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digi2t
Posts: 23
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ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by digi2t »

Using the AA Electronics PCB to build a #183 ODS. This has been a bucket list itch for sometime now. Finally got up the gumption to scratch it.

Initial observations;
- PCB, while clean and neat looking, has some minor points that I would have done differently. These points basically revolve around some wiring connection points and jumpers. Perhaps nitpicking on my part I suppose, but there you have it.
- Layouts are.... alright, I suppose. But, you need to do quite a bit of back and forthing with other layouts to decipher proper grounding points.
- BOM's are lacking. You'll have to go through the project item by item and figure out the parts list and sources before you begin.

Insofar as the BOM is concerned, I took the liberty of updating the AAE 183 Excel file that I was sent. Keep in mind that this is for the #183 build, but there are parts that cross reference to the #102 and #124 builds. While the parts are what I've chosen to use in my build, it may help you narrow down to similar parts that you may wish to use instead. I also made a point of indicating the supplier, and alternates if possible. Note that I'm in Canada, so the suppliers are mainly located in North America. Apologies to the Euro crowd. Also, due to availability issues, many of the parts in my BOM may be from different manufacturers than what is called for. If this presents an OCD issue for you, look away now.

BOM Dumble (102, 124, 183, 183 Dino_new.xlsx

Chassis-wise, I opted for the SOLandFA chassis. Sacrilege here, I know, but I've covered the offending TM infringement with a P-Touch label. Infringement aside, if I may say one good thing, it would be that the gentleman that I dealt with is a more than fair vendor. The chassis that he sent me had a verrry minor blemish on the face plate, right between the input jacks, due to the spot welding. Nothing earth shattering for most, but once I saw it, it was hard to unsee. Anywho, I email him about it, simply to point it out for his own QC reference in the future. He promptly emailed me back that he would gladly refund my money, or send me a new chassis at no charge. I was shocked. Since I had bought two PCB's (second one for a future build) I took the free chassis. Kudos to the customer service, for sure.

So, this is where I'm at so far....

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Right now I'm waiting on the tube sockets and transformers to move on to the next step of dropping the PCB into the chassis and wiring. Transformers will be Edcor's for this build, and Heyboer's for the second build. Edcor doesn't make a 240v primary for the PT, and the second amp will be going to my pal in the UK, hence the Heyboer's for build two.
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professormudd
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by professormudd »

digi2t wrote: Sat Jan 23, 2021 8:40 pm Using the AA Electronics PCB to build a #183 ODS. This has been a bucket list itch for sometime now. Finally got up the gumption to scratch it.

Initial observations;
- PCB, while clean and neat looking, has some minor points that I would have done differently. These points basically revolve around some wiring connection points and jumpers. Perhaps nitpicking on my part I suppose, but there you have it.
- Layouts are.... alright, I suppose. But, you need to do quite a bit of back and forthing with other layouts to decipher proper grounding points.
- BOM's are lacking. You'll have to go through the project item by item and figure out the parts list and sources before you begin.

Insofar as the BOM is concerned, I took the liberty of updating the AAE 183 Excel file that I was sent. Keep in mind that this is for the #183 build, but there are parts that cross reference to the #102 and #124 builds. While the parts are what I've chosen to use in my build, it may help you narrow down to similar parts that you may wish to use instead. I also made a point of indicating the supplier, and alternates if possible. Note that I'm in Canada, so the suppliers are mainly located in North America. Apologies to the Euro crowd. Also, due to availability issues, many of the parts in my BOM may be from different manufacturers than what is called for. If this presents an OCD issue for you, look away now.
I am inclined to agree with your initial observations regarding the documentation and the jumpers, but all in all it was a fun little scavenger hunt.

I am looking forward to watching your build come along. I had also considered a 183 using my PCB, but opted to save that for an eyelet build.
-Matt

It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
digi2t
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by digi2t »

Alrighty-O, first unit is built. Went through all the tuning info regarding the trimmers and such, and it sounds ab-so-lute-ly GLORIOUS! Having cheated death in 2018, I'm grateful to the surgeon for bringing me back to experience this tone. I can die again, happy now. :lol:

Just one question regarding a ticking noise that I'm getting...

Right now, the amp is still on the bench. At low to moderate volume levels, the amp is dead quiet. When I crank it up, say past 7 on both volumes, I'm hearing a ticking noise coming through the speakers. I calculate it at about 3 to 5 ticks per second. If I move around with my guitar, the ticking changes in intensity, but it's always there. If I turn the volume on the guitar down, ticking disappears. Like I said, the amp goes dead quiet, like it's not even on.

Tried three different guitars, single coils and buckers. The buckers (Bill Lawrence 500's, and PAF copy) seem to give the loudest ticking. Two different cables as well, one old, one new. Same results.

I'm leaning towards something in the house that the guitar pup is picking up. Opinions?

I'll get some pictures up soon. Just waiting for my 12vac xfo to show at the moment so I can stick a fork in build #1. I'll also post a revised BOM that I put together for the AA board for a 183 build, as well as a corrected layout (there are errors in the wiring and one of the cap connections), as well as the voltages I'm getting.
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ijedouglas
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by ijedouglas »

Congrats on the build!

I have something similar with a wireless router and my phone. I get a ticking from the router and various intermittent sounds from the phone. Easy to test by unplugging router and moving phone to a different location :)
Ian
digi2t
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by digi2t »

Thanks! Wouldn't of happened without all the info and fine support of this forum.

The router angle is definitely a possibility. I have one in the basement, where the shop is, and a big ass range extender upstairs. May well be the issue. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks for the suggestion.
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pompeiisneaks
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by pompeiisneaks »

I'd also think about turning off lights near it as well, I've gotten the oddest noises from LED lights sometimes. Again, does this sound happen with the guitar unplugged? If not, then it's pretty likely it's some kind of environmental interference.

~Phil
tUber Nerd!
digi2t
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by digi2t »

Yeah, I thought about that as well, but turning the lights off didn't alleviate it. I even placed a 2mm aluminium sheet shield over the enclosure as well, but I really believe that it's the guitar pups that are picking it up. If I turn down/off the guitar volume, it disappears. If I have nothing plugged into the inputs, no ticking. I'm sure it's being injected into the amp via the input, and not generated within the amp. Also, the hotter the pups, the louder the tick, so I'm assuming some sort of local radiation.
professormudd
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by professormudd »

Sometimes noise can be introduced from the wall outlet as well. Having other devices plugged into the same circuit can cause weird things to happen.

Do you have any pics of your build? I would love to see how it came together.
-Matt

It may very well be that the sole purpose of your life is only to serve as a warning to others.
digi2t
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by digi2t »

professormudd wrote: Tue Mar 02, 2021 7:17 pm
Do you have any pics of your build? I would love to see how it came together.
Will post some tonight, along with other info I've gathered.
digi2t
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by digi2t »

Well, tonight I wound it up again, and.... no ticking! Must be something that was running this morning getting picked up by the guitar pups. Scratch that off the list.

Here's what I have so far. The 12v transfo is still outstanding, so I have a 12vac wall wart standing in for testing.

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Here's my version of the AA layout, with some corrections that I picked up along the way. I also added the polarities for the orange drops, and the ground points which I gleaned from a #124 build layout.

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Schematic with my voltages. I've included both readings in 50 and 100 watt modes.

Image

Updated BOM for the #183 build on the AA board.
Copy of BOM Dumble (102, 124, 183, 183 Dino_02 Mar_2021.xlsx
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jazzbass
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by jazzbass »

Hello digi2t,

I also bought two motherboards from frusciante84 (Andrea Antonello) in early 2020. I was fascinated by the cleanliness of the constructions that were achievable with that mother board and by the fact that being possible to build more types of Dumble amplifiers, it would have solved the eternal doubts about "which model I can build ".

After having finished the construction of a 50 Watt JM and after having listened to many clips on You Tube I found the courage to start the construction of the Dumble # 183.

I live in Italy and I chose to have the transformers built by a local company (good and competent). Fearing that due to the size of the mother board it would not be possible to install the PT horizontally I chose to have it built vertically. The chassis that I buy from TubeTown
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/
is without holes and I drilled the holes with punchers and drill bits of various sizes.

I had the front and rear face plates built by a local craftsman but for the next amp I will use the SolandFa reference that I did, it seems to me an excellent solution.

I saw how you solved the installation of the second Bias capacitor and I like it, but, I had already adopted Andrea Antonello's suggestion.
I chose not to use the PAB but to use the FET as a signal overdrive under relay, which involved a modification to the scheme that I made with the generous help of Martin Manning.

Now I go down to the "laboratory" to continue the work good day. I attach the photo of the JM and the # 183

Franco
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franco mezzalira
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by jazzbass »

Hello everybody,

Criticism arose today in the construction of # 183 using the mother board designed by frusciante84:

In my opinion there are too many ground points not connected to each other, probably it was enough to prepare wider eyelets in which to weld the wires destined to go to ground. Now it is impossible or very problematic to use an eyelet to insert two ground wires while, to reduce the number of wires that go to ground, it would be necessary to concentrate more pins in a single mass.

Another doubt, where should the 4k2 Ohm resistor for the NFB be connected? on the 4 Ohm output as shown by the Ceriatone lay-outs or on the 8 Ohm output as indicated by the rustling pattern 84? Thanks for your feedback. :D

Franco
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ijedouglas
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by ijedouglas »

Hi Franco,

I think it is a 4K7 GNFB resistor and it should go to the 4 ohm tap
Ian
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by jazzbass »

hello ijedouglas (Jan),

I did not have the scheme at hand when I wrote and you are right on the value of the resistor of the NFB. :roll:

Why do you think the 4 Ohm socket is better than the 8 Ohm one? In the John Mayer ampli I made the choice to connect that resistor on the 4 Ohm socket and the sound, in my opinion, has changed for the better.

Now I'm soldering all the connections to the motherboard of this #183, a real nightmare with such a large board .... :shock:

Grazie per la risposta.

Franco
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ijedouglas
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Re: ODS #183 PCB build.

Post by ijedouglas »

Hi Franco,

The layout for 183 has it off the 4 ohm tap https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13095. I was going to point you in that direction when I noticed the schematic has it off the 8 ohm. I think this may be an error as I verified with the 102/124 layouts and schematics and they are both off the 4 ohm tap.

I have always used the 4 ohm tap and never had an issue.

Ian
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