First time mounting these relays...tips?

[Fischerman]

I build my own boards using 1/8" thick G10 (it's what I have so it's what I use). I have never had to mount anything like these NTE relays I just bought for my first ODS prototype. These are the 5/6v ones that (I think) Funk uses (I think he called them out by P/N in a recent thread). These look like they are made for PCB mounting (i.e. when placed on the PCB, the 'pins' will protrude through the bottom of the board for easy soldering). But the 'pins' are not exposed on the top side so it will be hard to get a soldering iron in there from the top without melting the plastic casing (unless I somehow elevate the relay above the board a little).

Should I just make some extra holes, adjacent to the 8 holes required to mount the relay, and then have little jumpers connecting each extra hole to one of the 8 mounting holes? I'd like to make it so that it's not a nightmare to replace a relay.

Thanks for any tips.

PS - this will be in a Fender Bandmaster Reverb chassis so the board will not be elevated with standoffs but rather flat against the chassis with an insulator board underneath.

[Funkalicousgroove]

Use a DIP16 socket and mount turrets to your G-10, then just plug your relays into the socket.

[Fischerman]

Thanks Funk. I had considered sockets but since I didn't order them I was trying to figure out another way. But it's virtually guaranteed I'll need to order something to complete this amp so I'll just get sockets then.

[Stanz]

I saw one build where they were mounted on top of turrets so you could solder any wire to the turret. Another option is to secure the relay upside down with legs pointing up. Doesn't leave much to solder to though.

[Funkalicousgroove]

It's best not to directly solder relays unless it is to a PCB where you can be really quick about it, Turrets take long enough to heat up that you could easily fry your relay.

[Normster]

+1 on the DIP sockets. There's a "wire wrap" version that has nice long leads. Relays do fail occasionally and it's much easier to unplug/plug than it is to unsolder/solder.

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=575-293316

[skyboltone]

+1 on the DIP sockets. There's a "wire wrap" version that has nice long leads. Relays do fail occasionally and it's much easier to unplug/plug than it is to unsolder/solder.

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=575-293316

Ok how about the link to the relays?

[heisthl]

It's best not to directly solder relays unless it is to a PCB where you can be really quick about it, Turrets take long enough to heat up that you could easily fry your relay.

I do this a lot (I solder the relay direct to the underside of the turrets to save space and double as board standoff) and there is an easy method. It's actually an old XLR trick. Insert the relay into the turrets and flip the whole piece over so gravity will flow the solder to the relay pins, next use solder that fits into the turret and press it down into the hole and snip it off about 1/16 above the turret. Put a little solder on your iron tip and heat the side of the turret - you will know when it is all melted and you're done. Remember to put a little solder on your iron tip for each pin - it accelerates the heat transfer. I try not to do adjacent pins until it cools and I've never had one not work or not be connected. If you have a relay fail down the road just cut it off and solder suck the pin remains out of the hole. I used to use sockets and they are much harder to solder without melting the plastic around the pins (or getting solder in the contacts) not to mention you really should use something to keep the relay seated in the socket when the amp is bouncing around in the band van (like a cable tie).

[Normster]

+1 on the DIP sockets. There's a "wire wrap" version that has nice long leads. Relays do fail occasionally and it's much easier to unplug/plug than it is to unsolder/solder.

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=575-293316

Ok how about the link to the relays?

The Mouser P/N is 526-R40-11D2-12 for NTE 12V (same as the ones in Dumble #234).

[Fischerman]

Thanks very much everybody. Appreciate the link Norm and also the methods you've used heisthl. I'm gonna get the sockets.

Not that it matters but I don't use turrets...I use eyelets. I just like them way better (especially for a prototype amp like this one...I expect to be going back in there quite a bit at first).

[mlp-mx6]

Not that it matters but I don't use turrets...I use eyelets. I just like them way better (especially for a prototype amp like this one...I expect to be going back in there quite a bit at first).

Funny, I prefer turrets for exactly the same reason. I wire them so there are no shared turrets - one component per pair, please. Usually when I do an eyelet board the cathode resistor and cap will be in the same pair, or the PI will have LOTS of shared eyelets. It's the shared eyelets that cause a problem when swapping parts a lot, IMHO. Plus, with my solder sucker I can totally clean out the turret every time. Eyelets are a little more difficult.

[skyboltone]

+1 on the DIP sockets. There's a "wire wrap" version that has nice long leads. Relays do fail occasionally and it's much easier to unplug/plug than it is to unsolder/solder.

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=575-293316

Ok how about the link to the relays?

The Mouser P/N is 526-R40-11D2-12 for NTE 12V (same as the ones in Dumble #234).

OK just to be clear that's two relays to one dip 18 socket?

[paulster]

OK just to be clear that's two relays to one dip 18 socket?

No, the DIP socket has pins that will sit between the relay pins. Just pop them out so you end up with a socket the size of a DIP16 but with only 8 pins remaining.

[skyboltone]

OK just to be clear that's two relays to one dip 18 socket?

No, the DIP socket has pins that will sit between the relay pins. Just pop them out so you end up with a socket the size of a DIP16 but with only 8 pins remaining.

That makes sense. Thanks. I just glue the darn things upside down on the chassis with RTV.

[RJ Guitars]

Thank you all for the very useful info...

I am attempting my first ODS build - basically following a D'Lite layout.

I want to make a relay board to control the PAB - Brt - OD - using a foot switch... If I'm on the wrong link, gently smack me into reality...

I think I need to fully expose my ignorance of how the relay board works in hopes that you will all be kind and I can gather an education simultaneously...Is it possible for someone to send me or post an image &/or schematic of the relay board? I'm still a little fuzzy on the specifics of how it all works:

1) How does the relay work in conjunction with the switches?
2) Is there a separate DC power supply needed?
3) Can I even do this on a D'Lite
4) Would someone share their board design with me?
5) AES sells a generic three button footswitch with a 5 pin DIN connector... will this work? part # P-H473 http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/fox ... tem=P-H473

Thanks in advance

rj