OTS #102 to #060 (without reverb)?

[ynor]

Thanks for sharing on the high-plate classic

I'm attaching an inside pic of mine, before I rewired from 120 to 240 V (bought it second hand from the US. 2021 model). What do you think of the quality of the components and craftsmanship? When I order new components they must be at least as good as the ones I'm replacing.

[martin manning]

C-tone isn't using anything special. New manufacture, name-brand parts from Mouser or the various guitar amp specialists in the US or EU will be at least as good.

[ynor]

I just completed my High-plate classic rebuild and it's an absolute strat killer! I have a #0124 (low-plate skyline) and its not even close. I have a 3rd Gen (low-plate classic) and its pretty good with a strat but the HP classic has no real competition. You may want to leave your amp as a high-plate for now and do the "blue", "red" (leave the slope at 150K) and "purple" mods suggested by Rootz. The high-plate to low-plate is pretty simple and can be done later.

What really opened my eyes on that AN ODR was this youtube video where there is a beautiful break up on the clean channel using a strat, and the highly overdriven but focused and tight sound on the OD channel:
https://youtu.be/jwzA-CI8AcA?si=xP5V8ZDfcRNkXkRy

Mine has almost no break up at the clean channel at all, while this can get quite crunchy on those clips. Also more "character" on the OD channel. This amp sounds astonishing in every video I've come across. Which do you think comes closest, the low plate classic or the high plate classic? I will try them both for myself though, eventually

[ijedouglas]

Thanks for sharing on the high-plate classic

I'm attaching an inside pic of mine, before I rewired from 120 to 240 V (bought it second hand from the US. 2021 model). What do you think of the quality of the components and craftsmanship? When I order new components they must be at least as good as the ones I'm replacing.

I am always amazed at the parts and build quality at that price point. Nothing special in the parts but they are good quality and certainly not cheap and nasty I do love those Roederstein cathode bypass caps though...

[rootz]

Well I guess it does the job Bepone, but I tend to agree it is not very pretty. On the other hand: this is ODR #79. These retail around 4k? No idea which year this amp is, but looks like Taylor is doing well. I added the internals of his ODR here. Might be good to add it to the #60 thread too, as it probably contains some more clues about the real #60.
Now there are some beautiful PCB's out there. Saw one of Suhr lately. 2Oz, rounded traces, even shielding with ground traces between signal traces. Absolutely stunning beautiful work.

[rootz]

Looks like I'm not the only one who rather plays a high plate classic with a Strat than a low plate skyline... My #94 is an absolute menace with a Strat, but also with buckers.

Just as Ian I'm always amazed by the neat work Ceriatone does. No period correct parts and you could have lengthy discussions these are as important to the sound as the circuit itself. But they are just nicely made.

All parts for every possible mod between 120, 124 and 94 would probably set you back 20 Euro's. I'd buy them all and let the fun start.

[ynor]

All parts for every possible mod between 120, 124 and 94 would probably set you back 20 Euro's. I'd buy them all and let the fun start.

I can't wait

[ynor]

Hi. I've received the C-lator. Sounds better and different now, I think. The tone is warmer and more fluid. More compressed and less harshness. Still the amp is best for LP and tele, so I will chase those mods.

Doing the tone stack mod first will convert my amp into a high plate classic like the #94? I've also seen clips of the #128, which I believe is a high plate classic too? Is the schematic of the #128 known, any differences compared to the #94?

[rootz]

Hi. I've received the C-lator. Sounds better and different now, I think. The tone is warmer and more fluid. More compressed and less harshness. Still the amp is best for LP and tele, so I will chase those mods.

Doing the tone stack mod first will convert my amp into a high plate classic like the #94? I've also seen clips of the #128, which I believe is a high plate classic too? Is the schematic of the #128 known, any differences compared to the #94?

If I understand it correctly, there are a couple of differences between 94 and 128:
- 100k slope resistor in #128. 150k in #94;
- 220k/470p combo on V1b grid in #128. Only 220k there in #94;
- 100k trigger trimmer in #128. 1meg in #94 (at least, that's on the casing);
- High frequency filter at the end of the OD in #94. That is a 20n cap in series with a 500k trimmer hanging of the input lug of the OD ratio pot (so right after the 150k resistor). That is probably not in #128. Ian knows this part for sure I think. I've seen #94 in pictures, but never 128.

#94 is a rather dark and very gainy amp, but you can also leave on the bright switch when in OD without harshness. Still my favourite circuit to date, but I tend to like darker amps/OD's with Strats.

[ynor]

I'm gathering parts to try different variations. I have not found pics, layout or schematics of the #128 here yet. Is that circuit known?

[ijedouglas]

I'm gathering parts to try different variations. I have not found pics, layout or schematics of the #128 here yet. Is that circuit known?

I have seen pictures of #0128. It is pretty much standard fare. You can use the following schematic of #094 and change the V1b to 220K/500pf and remove the high frequency taper (0.002 with 500K trimmer) after OD2 out (150K)

BTW the #094 schematic is wrong as it has a 100K OD trimmer which was marked (and I believe read) 1Meg as well as 250pf OD snubbers.

In my build I preferred the higher OD trimmer (470K), no HF taper and 250pf OD snubbers. I am not sure what the OD snubbers are on #0128 but I'm pretty sure they are 250pf

#094 Schematic 1.2 (1).pdf

[ijedouglas]

Hi. I've received the C-lator. Sounds better and different now, I think. The tone is warmer and more fluid. More compressed and less harshness. Still the amp is best for LP and tele, so I will chase those mods.

Doing the tone stack mod first will convert my amp into a high plate classic like the #94? I've also seen clips of the #128, which I believe is a high plate classic too? Is the schematic of the #128 known, any differences compared to the #94?

If I understand it correctly, there are a couple of differences between 94 and 128:
- 100k slope resistor in #128. 150k in #94;
- 220k/470p combo on V1b grid in #128. Only 220k there in #94;
- 100k trigger trimmer in #128. 1meg in #94 (at least, that's on the casing);
- High frequency filter at the end of the OD in #94. That is a 20n cap in series with a 500k trimmer hanging of the input lug of the OD ratio pot (so right after the 150k resistor). That is probably not in #128. Ian knows this part for sure I think. I've seen #94 in pictures, but never 128.

#94 is a rather dark and very gainy amp, but you can also leave on the bright switch when in OD without harshness. Still my favourite circuit to date, but I tend to like darker amps/OD's with Strats.

I believe #0128 is 150K slope, 500pf snubber on V1B

[ijedouglas]

Here is an article on i#0128 with a cool gutshot

https://www.vintageguitar.com/25112/198 ... e-special/

[ynor]

So I'm preparing an order from Tube Town in Germany to experiment with classic/skyliner tone stack and high plate/low plate values.

Summarizing your suggestions I've come to these components:

RESISTORS:
Plate and cathode resistors: 100k, 130k, 180k, 1k, 1k5, 1k8
Slope resistor: 150k
Bass pot resistor: 1k8

Are these the kind of resistors I want?
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/en/me ... 150-k.html

Which dropping resistors (rating and suggested values to play with) should I choose?

CAPACITORS:
I think these values should cover the different options:
Coupling cap V1a: 0.002 uF, 0.003 uF
Tone mid cap: 0.047 uF, 0.05 uF( is 0.047 uF the same as 0.05 uF???)
Bass pot cap: 2x0.001 uF, 0.005 uF

Are these the capacitors I want?
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/en/or ... 600-v.html

Presence cap: 1 uF
Master cap: 15 pF, 68 pF ( tantalum?)
Suggestions on which would cover these?

POTS:
I think I’ll use regular Alphas..?
Treble Pot: A250k
Mid Pot: B100k
Bass Pot: A250k
Trim pot: B500k

[ynor]

Also wondering your suggestions on which precence cap valuated at 1 uF from Tube Town you would suggest? Absolute best quality prioritized over price