Starting to populate the chassis....

[Dragon1]

WOW, that was fast, Do you live on here??? Anyway, thank you once again.

[Raoul Duke]

Brian,
You must “TIM”…

Trust in Martin. He always comes through in the clutch and will never steer you wrong

Looking good - keep moving forward and you’ll be there before you know it.

[Dragon1]

I love using this solid wire, you bend it and it stays where you put it. Stays tight in all the corners...
Brian

[dbharris]

Looks like you are making good progress!

What wattage are those screen resistors? You may also want to situate them more in front of the socket than over it for a little less heat convection.

On your footswitch jack, you will want to jump the case ground tab down to one of the conductor tabs. Most commercial midi cables will not connect the two case grounds through the cable.

Looks like you have the voltage regulator grounded at the terminal strip and the relay ground star. I am not sure this will cause an issue, but maybe better to pick one point for all of those grounds.

-Dan

[martin manning]

On your footswitch jack, you will want to jump the case ground tab down to one of the conductor tabs. Most commercial midi cables will not connect the two case grounds through the cable.

Looks like you have the voltage regulator grounded at the terminal strip and the relay ground star. I am not sure this will cause an issue, but maybe better to pick one point for all of those grounds.

I would let the DIN jack case connect to the chassis through its mounting bolts, and move the relay PS ground wire to pin 3. That way the relay PS is only grounded to the chassis at the regulator tab and the terminal strip ground lug near the relay PS board. Ground the relay PS board to the terminal strip ground lug, which should have the regulator center pin soldered to it.

[ijedouglas]

What wattage are those screen resistors? You may also want to situate them more in front of the socket than over it for a little less heat convection.

I was also looking at those screens too and they look like 1/2W 470R. You definitely want to get something bigger like a 3W or 5W...

[Dragon1]

Yeah, they're 1/2 watt, I can go bigger...

(dbharris wrote):
Looks like you have the voltage regulator grounded at the terminal strip and the relay ground star. I am not sure this will cause an issue, but maybe better to pick one point for all of those grounds.

Your are correct, I didn't even think of that while soldering it on......Makes sense, I'll change it. Funny grounds do funny things!!!

Brian

[dbharris]

Martin's suggestion is a good one, to move your relay ps ground wire to the middle tab on the terminal strip.

Bigger screen resistors is a good idea. As Ian mentioned, 3-5 watt preferred there.

-Dan

[Dragon1]

So I'm trying to solder one of the coax wires. I can't get the solder to stick to the braided
Shielding wires, am I not getting it hot enough?, is it the wrong kind of coax?
It's the kind you use for cable TV, solid core with a braided shield.
The braid is silver colored, could it be stainless///

[martin manning]

I would get some proper RF cable, like RG-58. Should be no problems soldering to that. A nice to have is cable with Teflon insulation between the core and shield so it can take heat without melting.

[Dragon1]

I'll give it a shot, Brian

Question, do the two coax cables from location "A" (black marker) go to location "B"

[Dragon1]

^^^^^^^^^^^New question, one step up ^^^^^^^^^^^^
Brian

[erwin_ve]

I'll give it a shot, Brian

Question, do the two coax cables from location "A" (black marker) go to location "B"

No, those are going to the front panel "level"(marked A) and "ratio"(marked B) pots.
For a good understanding of the layout, you can reference the schematic that is in the files section for #124.

[Dragon1]

So where do my marked “B” wires go, and thank you for your answer on the last question
Brian

[erwin_ve]

So where do my marked “B” wires go, and thank you for your answer on the last question
Brian

Coax a goes to the level pot with marked A.
Coax B goes to the ratio pot with marked B

Can you read a schematic?