Starting to populate the chassis....

[Dragon1]

I've got the pots and switches mounted and am trial fitting the choke and transformers, had to drill new holes for stuff...put in a purple Fender pilot light, had to drill that one out to 5/8"
It's starting to get crowded in there, also very heavy, time to make an amp stand.

100watt Univox in the background, started to blow fuses on power up, stand buy and full power. Got to figure that one out too...
Sorry about the mess, I'm in the basement, and you know tables, if they're empty you got to put stuff on them......
Brian

[dbharris]

Glad you are making progress. You may find people are able to help better if you have 1 thread for all build progress and questions. Lots of us will wait to bolt the iron on into later on in the process.

You may find this thread helpful:https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4657

-Dan

[Dragon1]

I am just test fitting all the stuff first, no surprises later. Yeah, one post sounds like a better idea, for you guys and me...
Read the link, good info
An hour here, an hour there, I'll get it done eventually!
Brian

[Dragon1]

I have a couple of questions.....
On this picture, bottom right, the orange cap. 20uf/450vdc with the 2K2 resister above it that goes on the right wall. Lead wires from cap go to the outer terminals of a four spot connecter, 2K2 resister goes to #3 and #1 terminals. Question is the black ground wire from ground #1 to the bottom of the cap is going to the face of the cap, does it get soldered to the face of the cap or can I put it on the bottom terminal #4????

Next question:
On the picture of the power transformer, right side set of wires, silver wire from transformer goes to the fuse, black wire goes to the main switch, silver wire from Radio Schack transformer goes to main switch, other silver wire form Radio Schack transformer turns into a red wire and goes to the fuse, Is this what I'm seeing here, hard to make out. What are the white squares on the wires, are the zip ties???

Third question:
The 10K Bias pot in the middle of the 6L6's says Bias 220K, where does this go??
Does it go to the top left of the main board where it says Bias and links to the two 220K
resisters???

[martin manning]

On this picture, bottom right, the orange cap. 20uf/450vdc with the 2K2 resister above it that goes on the right wall. Lead wires from cap go to the outer terminals of a four spot connecter, 2K2 resister goes to #3 and #1 terminals. Question is the black ground wire from ground #1 to the bottom of the cap is going to the face of the cap, does it get soldered to the face of the cap or can I put it on the bottom terminal #4????

The black wire goes from the #4 (bottom) terminal to the input ground. The gray leads are the cap's wire leads.

On the picture of the power transformer, right side set of wires, silver wire from transformer goes to the fuse, black wire goes to the main switch, silver wire from Radio Schack transformer goes to main switch, other silver wire form Radio Schack transformer turns into a red wire and goes to the fuse, Is this what I'm seeing here, hard to make out. What are the white squares on the wires, are the zip ties???

The primary leads from both transformers go to the same two places, fuse center lug and mains switch. The red lead going to the fuse should be the lightest gray lead coming from the main PT. Squares are zip ties.

There are a few minor errors in these layouts; most are obvious. Also note that the mains power connections are shown as-built, and not the best practice. The neutral should remain unbroken, and the line lead should be both fused and switched.

The 10K Bias pot in the middle of the 6L6's says Bias 220K, where does this go??
Does it go to the top left of the main board where it says Bias and links to the two 220K resisters???

Yup.

[Dragon1]

Thank you Martin, Brian

[Dragon1]

This is the picture from the first question, gray wire from the cap on the left to lug #1, blk wire from the cap on the right to lug #4. blk wire coming from grnd to right face of cap, should this be going to lug #4 also??
Second picture: The note about the 22m resistor from NC1 to com 1 and nc2 to com 2. Do I need two 22m resistors or does one do it all??? Or is it an either nc1 to com1 or nc2 to com 2?? Dazed and confused!!! Thanks in advance, Brian

[martin manning]

There are two 22M, one across each set of active contacts in the PAB relay. See the picture below where I added in the black wire that passes under the cap. Does that clear its up? What boards are you using? The B+5 filter may already be on the main filter board.

[Dragon1]

Thats what I thought, thanks for redrawing it, Im using the circled boards on these pages...page 7, is there four different board options there? I'm using the 2 button footswitch, which would be best for me?

[martin manning]

Ok, so the filter in the top right corner of the main filter board (pg. 1 of the eyelet board .pdf) replaces the one shown near V1 in the layout that you are asking about. The 2k2 dropping resistor is on the board too. The relay board is common to all variants. I didn't call out the 2nd Gen connections, but they are shown here: https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 85#p383685
If you are building a 2nd Gen, there is no PAB relay, so no 22M resistors, and you only need one button on the foot switch, for OD.

[Dragon1]

Thank you again Martin, and for the link.
Brian
Do you have a picture like this( like the #124 picture) thats, all assembled with your boards and wiring???

[martin manning]

No, I've never made any full layouts for the DIY boards. They were drawn up to replace a PCB and preamp board set that a member had made up for sale. When that source dried up I drew the DIY all-eyelet versions so people could build. They were intended to replace the PCB set, not to match the HAD originals, so there are some minor differences to deal with. Taylor Cox has been supplying pre fab'ed sets for those who don't want to or don't have the tools to make their own.

[Dragon1]

K, Thanks again for your help, Brian

[Dragon1]

Question??? Top left board, Two places say foot switch,Is that the #5 and #1 wires and which one is #5 and which one is #1.
Thanks, Brian

[martin manning]

Yes, and it does not matter.