D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

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Structo
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by Structo »

That's the problem I have, if I change something there is always a trade off in something else.

What did changing the slope resistor to 100K get you?
Tom

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roknroll
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by roknroll »

FWIW I think the G12H is radically wrong for this type of amp. The "H" is very overly bright and only sounds good with certain amps.Before you commit to too many changes try different speakers espescially the G12-65. My 2 cents.
Regards
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Structo
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by Structo »

Well yes that is one of my concerns about my amp.

Right now I have a pair of Tonkerlites and before that I had the V30 and CL80.

I have been thinking about trying the Warehouse 1265's.
I simply can't afford the Celestions right now but I know that my speakers are not ideal for this amp.
Tom

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Normster
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by Normster »

Structo wrote:Well yes that is one of my concerns about my amp.

Right now I have a pair of Tonkerlites and before that I had the V30 and CL80.

I have been thinking about trying the Warehouse 1265's.
I simply can't afford the Celestions right now but I know that my speakers are not ideal for this amp.
I put off buying a G12-65 for at least a year. When I finally bought one, it made a world of difference. It IS much better than the Warehouse 1265. However, for my 100watt Bluesmaster, I haven't found anything I like better than the EVM12L in a ported cab.
lbradshaw
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by lbradshaw »

roknroll wrote:FWIW I think the G12H is radically wrong for this type of amp. The "H" is very overly bright and only sounds good with certain amps.Before you commit to too many changes try different speakers espescially the G12-65. My 2 cents.
Regards
Yeah, I have been kicking around the idea of getting a G12-65. I am Just working with what I got on hand. At this point all I have is the G12H, A Red Fang, and two Jensen speakers.
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Structo
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by Structo »

Normster wrote:
Structo wrote:Well yes that is one of my concerns about my amp.

Right now I have a pair of Tonkerlites and before that I had the V30 and CL80.

I have been thinking about trying the Warehouse 1265's.
I simply can't afford the Celestions right now but I know that my speakers are not ideal for this amp.
I put off buying a G12-65 for at least a year. When I finally bought one, it made a world of difference. It IS much better than the Warehouse 1265. However, for my 100watt Bluesmaster, I haven't found anything I like better than the EVM12L in a ported cab.
Thanks for that Norm.
My problem is I don't have a 1x12 cab so I would need two 1265's.
I suppose I could pair one with something I have hear but that probably wouldn't be ideal.
Tom

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lbradshaw
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by lbradshaw »

Structo wrote: What did changing the slope resistor to 100K get you?
It shifted the whole tone stack over more into the mid and bass range. It's worth trying. I just attached an 300K resistor across the 150K to drop the whole resistance to 100K. Easy test. ;)
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Structo
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by Structo »

I've heard a few guys like the Eminence Red, White and Blues speakers in the D clones.

But, they only come in 8 ohms....

I like running a 2x12 partially because that is the only extension cab I have at the moment. :D
Tom

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lbradshaw
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by lbradshaw »

Structo wrote:I've heard a few guys like the Eminence Red, White and Blues speakers in the D clones.
Isn't the red, white and blues designed after either an JBL or EV?
doveman
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by doveman »

Normster wrote:IMHO, a bright amp is a nice problem to have. It's much easier to tame a bright amp than it is to brighten up a dark one. If you're OK with the clean tone, then I think the suggestions for a treble bleed are in order. If you need to tame the clean tone as well, reduce (or eliminate) the bright cap from the master. Other places to tweak are the treble pot itself. For a dark amp, I use 250kB. For brighter amps, use a 250kA. Alpha pots are 15% taper while CTS are 10% so you've got some choices there as well.

If the amp is really missing bass content rather than just too trebly, try increasing the size of the coupling caps or cathode bypass caps. As Moss said, you can also decrease the size of the slope resistor to increase mid/bass response.

Lastly, I recall Brandon having a problem with an overly bright amp that turned out to be the brand of PS capacitors. Apparently Nichicon is not nearly as smooth and warm as F&T, Sprague, or Xicon.
I agree with Normster on the bright amp is sometimes a good thing. I know it sounds obvious but the tone controls on the guitar bleeding off treble on a bright amp is a great thing. I learned my lesson when I bought a Marshall back in the '70s - really bright amp - tried to back off the treble on the amp and keep the guitar tones on 10. In my youth, I wanted to get "the most tone out of the guitar - that's 10 right?" You could still cut metal with that amp it was so bright. Discovered that I liked a bright amp with the guitar tones rolled off and have been doing that ever since. I set my Boogie Mk1 that way for decades ... doing the same thing with the D'Lite too.

A great example to me is Derek Trucks - high treble on those 4x10 or 6x10 Fenders - rolled off on the guitar - SMOOOOOTH. 8)
lbradshaw
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by lbradshaw »

I have now installed an treble bleed with 500K pot. And it seems to be working nicely. I have it set somewhere around 100K. The snubbers are currently 250p. This amp is starting to come into shape. Anyhow, I want to thank everyone for their help so far. :)
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novosibir
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by novosibir »

Last summer I've refined a Ceriatone for a buddy.

Besides other minor tweaks I've put in a slightly lo-cut to the OD section, an additional .022 after the relay to the OD's entrance (with a 4.7M pop suppressing R to ground at the relay's side), to tame the amp's boomyness.

But I couldn't get rid of the harshness, no matter, where the OD trim pot was set to. The Ceriatone OT seems to be better suited for British Style sounds than for dumble-ish IMO, so I've installed a fix treble bleed after the resistor after OD2's plate with a .001 Silver Mica and a 390K to ground, raised both snubber's values from each 270p to 390p and swapped in a Fender 022699 choke instead of the crappy malaysian - and the amp was smooth. Check also the pic below!

Larry
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heisthl
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by heisthl »

novosibir wrote:Last summer I've refined a Ceriatone for a buddy.

Besides other minor tweaks I've put in a slightly lo-cut to the OD section, an additional .022 after the relay to the OD's entrance (with a 4.7M pop suppressing R to ground at the relay's side), to tame the amp's boomyness.

But I couldn't get rid of the harshness, no matter, where the OD trim pot was set to. The Ceriatone OT seems to be better suited for British Style sounds than for dumble-ish IMO, so I've installed a fix treble bleed after the resistor after OD2's plate with a .001 Silver Mica and a 390K to ground, raised both snubber's values from each 270p to 390p and swapped in a Fender 022699 choke instead of the crappy malaysian - and the amp was smooth. Check also the pic below!

Larry
Wow that amp must have had a lot of brightness hitting the OD to warrant 390pf snubbers. I've heard some really good OverTone clips on you tube.
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lbradshaw
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by lbradshaw »

novosibir wrote: But I couldn't get rid of the harshness, no matter, where the OD trim pot was set to. The Ceriatone OT seems to be better suited for British Style sounds than for dumble-ish IMO, so I've installed a fix treble bleed after the resistor after OD2's plate with a .001 Silver Mica and a 390K to ground, raised both snubber's values from each 270p to 390p and swapped in a Fender 022699 choke instead of the crappy malaysian - and the amp was smooth. Check also the pic below!
Larry
Cool!

The only issue I have with the treble bleed is that it ends up making the clean and OD channels voiced quite a bit different. Maybe I am trying to bleed out too much treble. Also, does it matter where I put the treble bleed? I have it on the OD level pot. But, it kind sound like your put yours right after the coupling cap of OD2.
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novosibir
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Re: D'lite 6L6 build: Bright!

Post by novosibir »

heisthl wrote:Wow that amp must have had a lot of brightness hitting the OD to warrant 390pf snubbers.
I went step by step, first raised to 330p both - still brittle. Then 360p both, but still too brittle. Raised only the OD1 to 390p, but not enough - hence both now 390p.

After this I've still heared some slightly but nasty odd orders from the OT at higher levels, but the try with only one 470p instead of one of the 390p made the sound dull, so I've still put in the treble bleeder.

I've suggested to swap in another OT, but the owner didn't want to spend the extra bucks.
heisthl wrote:I've heard some really good OverTone clips on you tube.
I suspect, that the Ceriatone OT's are differing.

Larry
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