Another D-lator
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Another D-lator
I completed this about 7 months ago while I was between projects...and I just now found the pics I took.
It's basically the same as has been shown before, but I thought I'd share regardless. I built it as per the posted schem at first and then later added the choke. I found, like stated by Gil and others before, that the choke makes a noticeable difference.
My component choice, for the most part, was determined by what I had on hand. The tranny is from Funk. I couldn't help throwing in a couple of turrets and I hope that twisting the filament wires isn't considered too taboo..
Thanks to everyone here for sharing so much info. As a serious hobbiest I am truly grateful.
It's basically the same as has been shown before, but I thought I'd share regardless. I built it as per the posted schem at first and then later added the choke. I found, like stated by Gil and others before, that the choke makes a noticeable difference.
My component choice, for the most part, was determined by what I had on hand. The tranny is from Funk. I couldn't help throwing in a couple of turrets and I hope that twisting the filament wires isn't considered too taboo..
Thanks to everyone here for sharing so much info. As a serious hobbiest I am truly grateful.
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Re: Another D-lator
That's a really neat and clean build!
I've build the most sloppy dlator compared to yours. Well.. it sounds good and never playing my d-clone without it.
I also twisted the filament wires in mine.
How's your hum and noise level?
Did you use 1.3k/47uF on cathode bypass?
I've build the most sloppy dlator compared to yours. Well.. it sounds good and never playing my d-clone without it.
I also twisted the filament wires in mine.
How's your hum and noise level?
Did you use 1.3k/47uF on cathode bypass?
Re: Another D-lator
Thanks!
erwin- I can definitely hear it when it's plugged in, but still the noise/hum level is surprisingly low for a tube unit. The real key was adding the choke. It raised the voltages to the stated 'sweet spot' and reduced the overall noise. I used the 1k3/47uf.
erwin- I can definitely hear it when it's plugged in, but still the noise/hum level is surprisingly low for a tube unit. The real key was adding the choke. It raised the voltages to the stated 'sweet spot' and reduced the overall noise. I used the 1k3/47uf.
Re: Another D-lator
I don't have a choke in it, but it's also very low on hum and noise.argonaut wrote:Thanks!
erwin- I can definitely hear it when it's plugged in, but still the noise/hum level is surprisingly low for a tube unit. The real key was adding the choke. It raised the voltages to the stated 'sweet spot' and reduced the overall noise. I used the 1k3/47uf.
My voltages are: To recover triode=345v; to cathode follower triode= 268v.
What are your voltages?
- Noel Grassy
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Re: Another D-lator
Argonaut, Nice touch! Is that a GE branded Mullard in there? Your workmanship is superb. I hope to build one of these when I finish the matching amp.
All excellent things are as difficult as they are rare__B Spinoza
Re: Another D-lator
What kind of sheilded cable is that?
Seems like I have seen a few guys here using that in there amps and loops.
Seems like I have seen a few guys here using that in there amps and loops.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Another D-lator
Cool!erwin_ve wrote: I don't have a choke in it, but it's also very low on hum and noise.
My voltages are: To recover triode=345v; to cathode follower triode= 268v.
What are your voltages?
I'm currently reading 255V on the CF plate (31V on the cathode) and 232V on the recovery plate. Before I added the choke, it read 232V & 212V.
Thanks much, Noel!Noel Grassy wrote: Argonaut, Nice touch! Is that a GE branded Mullard in there? Your workmanship is superb. I hope to build one of these when I finish the matching amp.
To tell you the truth, I'm not exactly sure what that tube is. After everything tested out fine with a bench tube, I reached in the back of an old Wards Airline amp (dead amp that had been recently given to me) and that's what I pulled out. I said to myself...ooh, that'll do! It's a nice sounding tube.
Hi Tom, that's Gepco DS401.Structo wrote: What kind of sheilded cable is that?
Seems like I have seen a few guys here using that in there amps and loops.
Very Nice build
Could you describe the settings you are using with the three knobs.
Ange
Ange
-
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Choke
Hello,
I've been slowly collecting parts for building one DLator and find very interesting the use of the choke.
Can you please share the specifications for the choke used?
Thank you.
Fernando
I've been slowly collecting parts for building one DLator and find very interesting the use of the choke.
Can you please share the specifications for the choke used?
Thank you.
Fernando
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: Another D-lator
The choke Dumble used is 10H, I think alot of folks here are using a 3H deluxe reverb choke with good results-
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- UltraHookedOnPhonix
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Re: Another D-lator
Very Nice argonaut!
By the looks of it, you have the power switch and fuse on the neutral line instead of the hot. There is a difference between the hot and neutral line unlike back in the 2-prong days. I’m not certain of the safety implications but I’d wire it the contemporary way.
www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid= ... id=MOJO778
By the looks of it, you have the power switch and fuse on the neutral line instead of the hot. There is a difference between the hot and neutral line unlike back in the 2-prong days. I’m not certain of the safety implications but I’d wire it the contemporary way.
It's probably because of RF's loop. I'm 95% certain that the one in RF's is this exact one:The choke Dumble used is 10H, I think alot of folks here are using a 3H deluxe reverb choke with good results-
www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid= ... id=MOJO778
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- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:50 pm
Choke question
Thanks both for you answers and link.
Fernando
Fernando
Re: Another D-lator
I've wrangled with this for awhile and I'm thinking the main safety issue here is to get the hot wire fused as soon as it's inside the amp. I'd like to know why it's not actually safer to fuse the hot and switch the neutral. My thinking is that live hot run to the power switch could be safer if it's a neutral.UltraHookedOnPhonix wrote:
By the looks of it, you have the power switch and fuse on the neutral line instead of the hot. There is a difference between the hot and neutral line unlike back in the 2-prong days. I’m not certain of the safety implications but I’d wire it the contemporary way.
Former owner of Music Mechanix
www.RedPlateAmps.com
www.RedPlateAmps.com
- UltraHookedOnPhonix
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Re: Another D-lator
I've posted a really nice explanation of what R.G. Keen (www.geofex.com) has to say about line safety below. He also touches upon having the fuse and power switch on different lines, which is what Dumble did and says it's a very bad idea.I've wrangled with this for awhile and I'm thinking the main safety issue here is to get the hot wire fused as soon as it's inside the amp. I'd like to know why it's not actually safer to fuse the hot and switch the neutral. My thinking is that live hot run to the power switch could be safer if it's a neutral.
"In the USA at least, AC power comes off a large transformer nominally out on a power pole somewhere. One of the secondaries of that transformer is (usually) centertapped, and the center tap is grounded to the real, no fooling dirt in the hole the pole is standing in by a copper wire which runs down the pole to the bottom of the pole. This is a good ground, unless somebody has been playing Paul Bunyan and cut the copper wire, or stolen it to resell to scrap dealers. Three wires come to your house: Ground (that centertap) and the two hot sides of the winding. Each side is 120Vac nominal in the USA, and they're out of phase.
At your power entry panel, there is another ground, this one going to a metal pole driven into the ground. This is "safety ground", and is carried into your power distribution box. In the power distribution box, incoming ground is tied to safety ground, and this junction is the source of all the "white wire" or "neutral" wires in the premises. The two (usually black, to remind us of death. No, really.)wires become the two phases of power in most houses. Each wire feeds a hopefully equal batch of breakers in series with the actual AC sockets, light switches, etc..
At the wall socket: Any color other than white, green, or bare copper must be assumed to be hot, and must also be assumed to be live unless the breaker feeding that socket is PROVEN to be set off by meter reading the wires. In the bad old days, you had only white and black, or just two blacks. With no particular way to tell between them, you might as well open either line, right? Wrong, as we'll see. It was simpler to wire amps if you had a power switch to wire to on one incoming AC wire and a fuse holder on the other side, so it became common to put the switch in one side of the AC line and the fuse in the other.
This was a bad idea. If you flip the switch to your amp, and nothing happens, what's wrong? It could be the fuse blown, right? So you take out the fuse and in replacing it touch a grounded metal anything nearby, and your last thoughts are of a smell of burning flesh. The fuse in the neutral line left the switch on in the hot line, and when you touched the hot line and a local earth ground, you completed the circuit and died. Or you are very careful and turn the power switch off and then start replacing the fuse. In replacing it you touch a grounded metal anything nearby, and your last thoughts are of a smell of burning flesh. The power switch was in the neutral line, you touched the hot side of the fuse holder when doing the replacement.
The safe way to do this is to always put the fuse in the hot wire, not neutral. At least then your widow can sue the electrician who wired the socked backwards.
Safer is to put the fuse in the hot side and to use a DPST switch that breaks both sides of the AC line. Then your widow can't sue the electrician because it was you who didn't turn off the switch. Even better, if you ever replace the power cord on an amp, put in an IEC cord disconnect receptacle with safety fuse tray. Now you can just pull the plug out of the back of the amp."