Steel String Singer #001/#002/#004 Layout/Schematics

[norburybrook]

I’ve built both. SSS #004 has more LNFB loops that give the amp a different feel to the JM model.
I usually have the preamp volume on 10 on the #004 build, almost sounds like a compressor is on, with very little preamp break up. The amp has a warmer/spongier sound compared to my SSS #002 build, if that makes sense.

The JM does beautiful cleans and can break up a little when cranked.

Thanks,
Aaron

Interesting Aaron I wonder if having 512V on the plates on my JM gives a harder, more touch sensitive feel/sound than the regular JM which makes it more SSS?


I've resisted the temptation to build an SSS because of this


Great amps though.


M

[Synchu]

Nope, not really.
Nothing sounds or feels like SSS - you build must, yeah
Niki

[rccolgan]

Finished up my SSS #002 project recently. I went for 1:1 scale and visuals. Making the cab was extremely time consuming but I think it came out great! In theme of the SSS thread, I included a few family photos with my #004 head and speaker cab I built last year. #002 is definitely a "singing" amp with plenty of top end. I can see why John Mayer developed his JM sig (also cloned) to pair with #002. I can make #004 sound just like #002 if I put the presence all the way up on #004.

For the full high resolution photo and video album of my entire #002 build: https://photos.app.goo.gl/W8zAvFVRCSsRoQgs7

[dorrisant]

Very nice, Ryan!

[Vertigo]

Thank you for all the effort on this project. I've been reading here for several years and am just getting around to attempting the 002. Ryan, the amount of documentation you've provided is astounding, thank you!

I've been going through the layout and the BOM's you provided and have been tweaking the spreadsheets a little bit...adding filters, adding components that didn't make it into the BOM's, adding columns to call out the section of the amp the component belongs etc...with the idea being that perhaps future builders would have an even easier time making one of these on their own. Once I've finished mine and have verified everything, if you all think my spreadsheet would be useful, I'll submit it.

Ryan, in your layout, is the bias pot missing or have I missed it somehow? I can clearly see it in your photos but don't see it in the layout...though to be fair, I'm crosseyed from looking at the layout, the schematic, the various websites to order parts and flipping through your photos and videos.

Thank you,

Sean

[rccolgan]

Thank you for all the effort on this project. I've been reading here for several years and am just getting around to attempting the 002. Ryan, the amount of documentation you've provided is astounding, thank you!

I've been going through the layout and the BOM's you provided and have been tweaking the spreadsheets a little bit...adding filters, adding components that didn't make it into the BOM's, adding columns to call out the section of the amp the component belongs etc...with the idea being that perhaps future builders would have an even easier time making one of these on their own. Once I've finished mine and have verified everything, if you all think my spreadsheet would be useful, I'll submit it.

Ryan, in your layout, is the bias pot missing or have I missed it somehow? I can clearly see it in your photos but don't see it in the layout...though to be fair, I'm crosseyed from looking at the layout, the schematic, the various websites to order parts and flipping through your photos and videos.

Thank you,

Sean

Thanks! This amp was a lot to wrap my head around. The real amp is fixed bias so I originally was getting creative by adding a bias adjustment but I went back to fixed bias and adjusted the resistor until the 6L6 was at 35mA/55% dissipation. I left the bias pot in the amp (as you see in pictures) so I simply wouldn't lose it lol. I will revisit later on to make an adjustable bias but I was getting nervous having the pot sink the voltage/current which is ultimately why I went back to fixed bias. I'll absolutely accept your updated Excel doc! I admit I didn't do the best job cleaning up the BOM after the build was done so I appreciate it!

Good timing because I believe Bomba and I cracked the code on this reverb. Until yesterday, I was using the reverb layout as published by previous efforts to document #002. The reverb worked but was very low levels and needed to be driven hard to sit well alongside the dry mix. The reverb tone was very dark as well which made it less useful other than a really low-level wash. I enhanced the contrast on gut shots of #001 and #002 and looked again at the hand-drawn schematic to see if there was anything to learn. Sure enough, reworking the 2k2 resistor to tap into the reverb transformer green (RCA send) and connecting to the 100R/Cathode resistor & cap pair, is correct, rather than the 2k2 in line with the signal coming back from the RCA return. The RCA return is connected to the grid and 100k resistor. Now, the reverb sits extremely well in the mix compared to the dry signal. It's much brighter too! Not crazy bright, but "just right" to my ears AND I don't have to drive my reverb controls almost all the way even with a 5751 driver tube.

Attaching the latest layout and supporting pictures. As always, the latest layout can be found here: https://github.com/colganr/steel-string ... er/Circuit
-Ryan

[Bombacaototal]

Glad to help buddy! And thanks for sharing the revision..

[somax19]

Thank you for all the effort on this project. I've been reading here for several years and am just getting around to attempting the 002. Ryan, the amount of documentation you've provided is astounding, thank you!

I've been going through the layout and the BOM's you provided and have been tweaking the spreadsheets a little bit...adding filters, adding components that didn't make it into the BOM's, adding columns to call out the section of the amp the component belongs etc...with the idea being that perhaps future builders would have an even easier time making one of these on their own. Once I've finished mine and have verified everything, if you all think my spreadsheet would be useful, I'll submit it.

Ryan, in your layout, is the bias pot missing or have I missed it somehow? I can clearly see it in your photos but don't see it in the layout...though to be fair, I'm crosseyed from looking at the layout, the schematic, the various websites to order parts and flipping through your photos and videos.

Thank you,

Sean

Thanks! This amp was a lot to wrap my head around. The real amp is fixed bias so I originally was getting creative by adding a bias adjustment but I went back to fixed bias and adjusted the resistor until the 6L6 was at 35mA/55% dissipation. I left the bias pot in the amp (as you see in pictures) so I simply wouldn't lose it lol. I will revisit later on to make an adjustable bias but I was getting nervous having the pot sink the voltage/current which is ultimately why I went back to fixed bias. I'll absolutely accept your updated Excel doc! I admit I didn't do the best job cleaning up the BOM after the build was done so I appreciate it!

Good timing because I believe Bomba and I cracked the code on this reverb. Until yesterday, I was using the reverb layout as published by previous efforts to document #002. The reverb worked but was very low levels and needed to be driven hard to sit well alongside the dry mix. The reverb tone was very dark as well which made it less useful other than a really low-level wash. I enhanced the contrast on gut shots of #001 and #002 and looked again at the hand-drawn schematic to see if there was anything to learn. Sure enough, reworking the 2k2 resistor to tap into the reverb transformer green (RCA send) and connecting to the 100R/Cathode resistor & cap pair, is correct, rather than the 2k2 in line with the signal coming back from the RCA return. The RCA return is connected to the grid and 100k resistor. Now, the reverb sits extremely well in the mix compared to the dry signal. It's much brighter too! Not crazy bright, but "just right" to my ears AND I don't have to drive my reverb controls almost all the way even with a 5751 driver tube.

Attaching the latest layout and supporting pictures. As always, the latest layout can be found here: https://github.com/colganr/steel-string ... er/Circuit
-Ryan

I told you the 2k2 resistor a few month ago....
But what about the V1B cathod resistors ? 1k5 serial 100ohm or 1K?

[rccolgan]

My apologies, somax. I'm glad we landed on the same place with the 2k2. I believe the cathode resistor is 100R and my evidence is the v1b voltage measure on the Japanese schematic. The tone is quite different with 100R vs 1K too from the amount of gain and LNFB applied.

[somax19]

My apologies, somax. I'm glad we landed on the same place with the 2k2. I believe the cathode resistor is 100R and my evidence is the v1b voltage measure on the Japanese schematic. The tone is quite different with 100R vs 1K too from the amount of gain and LNFB applied.

Yes,I try 100R and 1K . 100R version its ugly drive at mid gain to full (volume) .with 1k its "fully clean" at full gain.
are you change the 1M and 0.1uF cap in LNFB to 100R?

[rccolgan]

My apologies, somax. I'm glad we landed on the same place with the 2k2. I believe the cathode resistor is 100R and my evidence is the v1b voltage measure on the Japanese schematic. The tone is quite different with 100R vs 1K too from the amount of gain and LNFB applied.

Yes,I try 100R and 1K . 100R version its ugly drive at mid gain to full (volume) .with 1k its "fully clean" at full gain.
are you change the 1M and 0.1uF cap in LNFB to 100R?

It definitely has a drive & compression with the 100R on V1B. I like the extra compression for pedals! I used 100R on V1A as well with a 5751 tube, the voltages matched perfectly to the japanese hand drawn schematic. My goal is to recreate the original as closely as possible circuit-wise. Did you change V1A to 1k too?

[somax19]

My apologies, somax. I'm glad we landed on the same place with the 2k2. I believe the cathode resistor is 100R and my evidence is the v1b voltage measure on the Japanese schematic. The tone is quite different with 100R vs 1K too from the amount of gain and LNFB applied.

Yes,I try 100R and 1K . 100R version its ugly drive at mid gain to full (volume) .with 1k its "fully clean" at full gain.
are you change the 1M and 0.1uF cap in LNFB to 100R?

It definitely has a drive & compression with the 100R on V1B. I like the extra compression for pedals! I used 100R on V1A as well with a 5751 tube, the voltages matched perfectly to the japanese hand drawn schematic. My goal is to recreate the original as closely as possible circuit-wise. Did you change V1A to 1k too?

No ,only V1B. Full clean sound,nice compression at 13 o'clock to full volume.I hear perfect sound.But I change V1b 1k to 100R ,very shit buzzy drive sound 10-12 o'clock to full.Unusable.
Do you replaced another part in same time 100R?

[rccolgan]

Yes,I try 100R and 1K . 100R version its ugly drive at mid gain to full (volume) .with 1k its "fully clean" at full gain.
are you change the 1M and 0.1uF cap in LNFB to 100R?

It definitely has a drive & compression with the 100R on V1B. I like the extra compression for pedals! I used 100R on V1A as well with a 5751 tube, the voltages matched perfectly to the japanese hand drawn schematic. My goal is to recreate the original as closely as possible circuit-wise. Did you change V1A to 1k too?

No ,only V1B. Full clean sound,nice compression at 13 o'clock to full volume.I hear perfect sound.But I change V1b 1k to 100R ,very shit buzzy drive sound 10-12 o'clock to full.Unusable.
Do you replaced another part in same time 100R?

Thanks for sharing. I believe the 270k near v3 is supposed to be 100k too. I believe I have my reasoning a few pages back on this thread with pictures comparing to #001. Another thing I noticed with the 1k v1b like yours, it lowered the dry tone in the wet/dry mix so the reverb was really strong by comparison. I see Pete's settings on your video had the reverb send/return pretty low so I'm guessing it's similar to what I found with the 1k on v1b.

[somax19]

It definitely has a drive & compression with the 100R on V1B. I like the extra compression for pedals! I used 100R on V1A as well with a 5751 tube, the voltages matched perfectly to the japanese hand drawn schematic. My goal is to recreate the original as closely as possible circuit-wise. Did you change V1A to 1k too?

No ,only V1B. Full clean sound,nice compression at 13 o'clock to full volume.I hear perfect sound.But I change V1b 1k to 100R ,very shit buzzy drive sound 10-12 o'clock to full.Unusable.
Do you replaced another part in same time 100R?

Thanks for sharing. I believe the 270k near v3 is supposed to be 100k too. I believe I have my reasoning a few pages back on this thread with pictures comparing to #001. Another thing I noticed with the 1k v1b like yours, it lowered the dry tone in the wet/dry mix so the reverb was really strong by comparison. I see Pete's settings on your video had the reverb send/return pretty low so I'm guessing it's similar to what I found with the 1k on v1b.

Yes its my constant problem the lower volume. In 1k version at full master max 90-95dB.
its very lower at 100W amp:(
in 100R version the amp loudness is ok! but I dont thing so the legendary SSS 002 is fuzzy buzzy sound.

[rccolgan]

No ,only V1B. Full clean sound,nice compression at 13 o'clock to full volume.I hear perfect sound.But I change V1b 1k to 100R ,very shit buzzy drive sound 10-12 o'clock to full.Unusable.
Do you replaced another part in same time 100R?

Thanks for sharing. I believe the 270k near v3 is supposed to be 100k too. I believe I have my reasoning a few pages back on this thread with pictures comparing to #001. Another thing I noticed with the 1k v1b like yours, it lowered the dry tone in the wet/dry mix so the reverb was really strong by comparison. I see Pete's settings on your video had the reverb send/return pretty low so I'm guessing it's similar to what I found with the 1k on v1b.

Yes its my constant problem the lower volume. In 1k version at full master max 90-95dB.
its very lower at 100W amp:(
in 100R version the amp loudness is ok! but I dont thing so the legendary SSS 002 is fuzzy buzzy sound.

I agree that fuzzy and buzzy is not good. I know mine is pretty clean with Mayer's #002 settings and the gain is around 11 o'clock. Sounds like Mayer's amp to my ear. Right at the edge of preamp breakup but not buzzy at all. Maybe we'll learn the true circuit & components of #002 in our lifetime to put speculation to rest One other approach is to see if anyone has insight into the Two-Rock Oak Cliff Special which is supposed to be a clone and backup of #002 for Mayer. As heard here https://youtu.be/ElCa5xaay5Y?t=290