100W HRM in the BluesMaster Style?

[heisthl]

The R values may or not be right - It just looked "wrong".
I'm pretty sure after you get Funk's chassis you're not going to want to punch any holes for a loop tube(see the Bruno Pic) but on the bright side the Dumble style head cab has enough room to put a 5x7 or 4x6 hammond box (tube up) for the loop using a Fender stand alone reverb power transformer. In fact you could even manage both a loop and a tank reverb see http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3031

[Funkalicousgroove]

Has anyone noticed the extra 22M on the R/J switch on #124?

Here's my theory:

The LC amp seems to have a Tail resistor on the Mid pot, other examples of the BM break the mids from ground with the PAB,

So what if #234, and the LC amp (which both have the .0047 connected to the PAB board) only break the Mid from the Bass as the PAB, and the other 22M is only useful in the Rock/Jazz mode?

[odourboy]

Has anyone noticed the extra 22M on the R/J switch on #124?

Here's my theory:

The LC amp seems to have a Tail resistor on the Mid pot, other examples of the BM break the mids from ground with the PAB,

So what if #234, and the LC amp (which both have the .0047 connected to the PAB board) only break the Mid from the Bass as the PAB, and the other 22M is only useful in the Rock/Jazz mode?

I don't see an extra 22M. I see two 22M on resistors tied to the PAB... one right on the relay board on one going from the J/R common post over to the treble pot tail. That's normal isn't it? Am I missing one?

(BTW - did meant #124 when you typed #234 didn't you?)

[jelle]

The way I see it , looking at the LC pic, is that there is no .0047uf cap on the LC PAB board (I do not see one) and the 22M is inserted in the Jazz mode in he spot where the .0047 used to be...I do not see what the other 22M does...but it is also attached one side to ground so it cannot be inserted between the mid and the bass pots and also not between the mid and ground since there is this tail resistor on the mid pot.

Nice puzzle!

[mdroberts1243]

The way I see it , looking at the LC pic, is that there is no .0047uf cap on the LC PAB board (I do not see one) and the 22M is inserted in the Jazz mode in he spot where the .0047 used to be...I do not see what the other 22M does...but it is also attached one side to ground so it cannot be inserted between the mid and the bass pots and also not between the mid and ground since there is this tail resistor on the mid pot.

Nice puzzle!

For anybody else that wants to help solve the puzzle... here is the direct link to the LC pic:
http://www.hamiltoneguitars.com/palmbea ... umble2.jpg

[mdroberts1243]

The way I see it , looking at the LC pic, is that there is no .0047uf cap on the LC PAB board (I do not see one) and the 22M is inserted in the Jazz mode in he spot where the .0047 used to be...I do not see what the other 22M does...but it is also attached one side to ground so it cannot be inserted between the mid and the bass pots and also not between the mid and ground since there is this tail resistor on the mid pot.

Nice puzzle!

For anybody else that wants to help solve the puzzle... here is the direct link to the LC pic:
http://www.hamiltoneguitars.com/palmbea ... umble2.jpg

O.k. I have been staring at this picture for a while now and just can't make sense of the jumble of yellow and tinned wire on the Rock/Jazz switch... But... one plausible scenario is that the PAB is used as shown in the BM Style schematic to lift the Tonestack by disconnecting the mid-pot (or mid-pot tail resistor) from ground (the picture doesn't show the other side of the 1.8k tail resistor). This would seem to be an unusual wiring style for Dumble, but possible. The other PAB relay contacts could presumably lift the .005 from ground and would only be useful in Jazz mode... so PAB would completely lift the tonestack in both modes.

Eh?

[mdroberts1243]

EDIT: All the images in this post have been superceded by the draft layout posted later in the thread.

Sorry in advance if this is crude and unrefined... I took a look at Funk's preamp and HRM boards to see how they would be populated/wired for the BluesMaster above... seeking feedback as always!

I've got a marked up schematic that shows with yellow shading the components mounted on the preamp board, with red dots the places where you transition to wires and a red box that outlines the HRM components.

I've got a hand-drawn facsimile of Funk's HRM board populated in red with the components and a proposal for the connection to the preamp board... ignore the 0.01 cap on the HRM drawing... it can be mounted on the preamp board I believe and then just a solid wire will serve to make the connection.

I've got an approximation of Funk's preamp board, from the photo he posted, and I've hand-drawn components onto it with notes about where the wires go to...

Let me know if this all makes sense!

[heisthl]

You don't need all that extra stuff on the HRM board - its on the main board underneath - see http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3508

[mdroberts1243]

You don't need all that extra stuff on the HRM board - its on the main board underneath - see http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3508

Thanks Heisthl!
I searched but couldn't find a good set of build pics with Funk's PCBs... only had the older eyelet board build.
If I follow correctly, I can lay down my 100K resistor on the preamp board instead of flying it to the HRM.
What's the extra eyelet for on the preamp board in the picture (attached)?
Did you happen to take a picture of the preamp board before the HRM was attached?

[heisthl]

The Funk board doubles as non-HRM, I think it was for the .005. Sorry no picture without the board but it's all standard - the only thing you can't see is the 100 ohm resistor between the HRM board and ground.

[mdroberts1243]

EDIT3: Made some progress in starting to wire it up... still lots to do, but this has some significant work that could be checked.

EDIT2: Put in a recifier board based on the punched card image that Funk posted... I'm going to edit the schematic to match once I get a chance.

EDIT: Made the immediate changes pointed out by Heisthl and DogEars.

Hi All,
Here is a tentative start at a detailed Normster-style layout for the BM 100W using Funk's chassis and board set... Thanks to Norm & others for the stencils, etc.
I've used images of the boards and the chassis to accurately locate and size the various pieces. The Visio components from Norm and others are placed on top of the ghosted images.
All the boards are 'stuffed' the Preamp and HRM are complete, but there is still lots of 'wiring' to do and 'flying' components to place. The rectifier board is courtesy Heisthl... Thanks!
Let me know if you spot any issues!

[heisthl]

flip the bias caps on the retifier board - send me the visio so I can make other corrections as I see them.

[dogears]

Looks great.....

Some errors:

Mid pot is a 50k

Either no cap feeding the HRM board, or try the .01 or even something larger like a .02

Cathode resistor on V2b is 1.8k

47pf bright cap on clean master

Presence pot is 25Kb

A tweak suggestion, you may like something larger than .02uf on the output grid couplers. Try .03uf or .05uf depending on the fullness you want.

If your PT puts out more than 440V, you'll need to adjust the V1 and V2 voltages. Try upping the V2 dropping from 15K to 18K or even 22K.

[mdroberts1243]

Looks great.....

Some errors:

Mid pot is a 50k

Either no cap feeding the HRM board, or try the .01 or even something larger like a .02

Cathode resistor on V2b is 1.8k

47pf bright cap on clean master

Presence pot is 25Kb

A tweak suggestion, you may like something larger than .02uf on the output grid couplers. Try .03uf or .05uf depending on the fullness you want.

If your PT puts out more than 440V, you'll need to adjust the V1 and V2 voltages. Try upping the V2 dropping from 15K to 18K or even 22K.

Thanks Scott! I hadn't even looked at the pot values yet, but thought I had reviewed the preamp components... good catch. I've made some of changes in the latest posting, but I still have components to place and a lot of wiring to do...

[mdroberts1243]

flip the bias caps on the retifier board - send me the visio so I can make other corrections as I see them.

Thanks Heisthl!

I had completely forgot about your note re: the reversed polarity on the 'lytics.

The PM failed, so I emailed you.