Completed 80's funk chassis
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- Funkalicousgroove
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Completed 80's funk chassis
Here are pics.
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Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
a few more...
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Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
and more
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Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
and more
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Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
I hope they help you all with your builds, sorry they took so long.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
Funk
I was going to say "DYN-O_MITE" but you changed your avatar
thanks
I was going to say "DYN-O_MITE" but you changed your avatar
thanks
dB
- Funkalicousgroove
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1 others liked this
Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
Yes, I am Ming the Merciless now!! GRRRRRRRRR
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- mdroberts1243
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
Hi Brandon,Funkalicousgroove wrote:I hope they help you all with your builds, sorry they took so long.
Thanks for posting these!
I like the trick of running the screen resistors between two sockets... seems to nicely solve a mechanical problem!
It seems that both you and Heisthl put the standby switch AFTER the 1st set of filter caps, but all the schematics, including Heisthl's BM one, have the standby switch right after the diodes... putting it after the 1st set of filter caps seems nicer from the point of view of tight wiring, good layout, etc. but is there any downside to that?
What's an amp with 100k plate / 1.5k cathode on all four triodes sound like?
Thanks,
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
- Funkalicousgroove
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
The Schematics are incorrect regarding the standby, if that were the case then when you flipped on the switch you'd have like 500v on your plates and caps until they charged.mdroberts1243 wrote:Hi Brandon,Funkalicousgroove wrote:I hope they help you all with your builds, sorry they took so long.
Thanks for posting these!
I like the trick of running the screen resistors between two sockets... seems to nicely solve a mechanical problem!
It seems that both you and Heisthl put the standby switch AFTER the 1st set of filter caps, but all the schematics, including Heisthl's BM one, have the standby switch right after the diodes... putting it after the 1st set of filter caps seems nicer from the point of view of tight wiring, good layout, etc. but is there any downside to that?
What's an amp with 100k plate / 1.5k cathode on all four triodes sound like?
Thanks,
The 100K/1K5 sounds like HEAVEN, IMHO the way to go on a non HRM build.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
I guess it sounds like sn#124...LOL! These 100k's sound really cool I agree. Just try it sometimes.
Funk, that is one great build and thanks for the pics. Same remark on the screenresistors...cool! Couldn't figure that out...thanks.
Jelle
Funk, that is one great build and thanks for the pics. Same remark on the screenresistors...cool! Couldn't figure that out...thanks.
Jelle
- mdroberts1243
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
I like the idea of having the standby switch located post-1st-filter-caps. I don't agree that you will see 500V on the plates... the uncharged caps will look like a dead short and ramp up in voltage based on the source impedance of the transformer, etc... The only drawback I've found in googling around is the additional voltage stress put on the 1st stage filter caps, with no load, there will be a lot more volts on those caps in standby. But this isn't an issue for the Dumble precision supply with the series connected caps, so I'm going to go for it... it cleans up the wiring so nicely!Funkalicousgroove wrote:
The Schematics are incorrect regarding the standby, if that were the case then when you flipped on the switch you'd have like 500v on your plates and caps until they charged.
The 100K/1K5 sounds like HEAVEN, IMHO the way to go on a non HRM build.
Looks like trying various combinations of Rp/Rk is going to be a big part of tweaking the BM build.
Thanks,
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
- Funkalicousgroove
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- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:04 pm
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
mdroberts1243 wrote:I like the idea of having the standby switch located post-1st-filter-caps. I don't agree that you will see 500V on the plates... the uncharged caps will look like a dead short and ramp up in voltage based on the source impedance of the transformer, etc... The only drawback I've found in googling around is the additional voltage stress put on the 1st stage filter caps, with no load, there will be a lot more volts on those caps in standby. But this isn't an issue for the Dumble precision supply with the series connected caps, so I'm going to go for it... it cleans up the wiring so nicely!Funkalicousgroove wrote:
The Schematics are incorrect regarding the standby, if that were the case then when you flipped on the switch you'd have like 500v on your plates and caps until they charged.
The 100K/1K5 sounds like HEAVEN, IMHO the way to go on a non HRM build.
Looks like trying various combinations of Rp/Rk is going to be a big part of tweaking the BM build.
Thanks,
Disagree if you like, but I speak from experience. This is the way the real ones are wired.
BTW, #124 isn't really unique, there are MANY amps with the 100K/1K5 plate/cathodes. What was most unique about #124 is the 350K trimmer/120K OD entrance network, the way the PAB was wired, and the 300UF caps at the first filtering stage(plates).
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
The 220k//250pf on the signall access loop...not unique?
- glasman
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Re: Completed 80's funk chassis
When you initially apply power, the caps will draw the supply to 0 volts. After 5 RC time constants (Cfat * resistance of transformer windings) the supply will be at max voltage.
The screen side of the choke is a whole different matter where the LC creates a nice spring and you will have a damped sign wave with a peak amplitude of about 1.4 X nominal voltage. This is why it is a good idea to use a cap with about 1.5X voltage rating for the screen.
For me, I will keep my standby before the CFATS.
Gary
The screen side of the choke is a whole different matter where the LC creates a nice spring and you will have a damped sign wave with a peak amplitude of about 1.4 X nominal voltage. This is why it is a good idea to use a cap with about 1.5X voltage rating for the screen.
For me, I will keep my standby before the CFATS.
Gary
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com