D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

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Motörbööt
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Motörbööt »

Hi Funkalicousgroove,

plz can u give us a full drawn schematic with powersupply and platevoltages? Are there any suggestions to make it work parallel as well?

Do you plan to sell this as a kit, the boards and tranny?

Greetz
.
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Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Funkalicousgroove »

here is a schemo. I only sell transformers, but the ones I have are for US mains. as Gil Ayan suggested, you can use these transformers at 240v, but you'd rectify differently, and wire your heaters for 12.6v instead of 6.3v. I make no warranty as to their operation at voltage other than 120vac.
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drz400
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by drz400 »

Funkalicousgroove wrote:here is a schemo. I only sell transformers, but the ones I have are for US mains. as Gil Ayan suggested, you can use these transformers at 240v, but you'd rectify differently, and wire your heaters for 12.6v instead of 6.3v. I make no warranty as to their operation at voltage other than 120vac.
I saw a dumbleator the other day which had a few differences compared to this schematic, kind makes me feel like things could change depending on what was at hand.
Also 12AX7 is this what was normally used? I would think a 12AT7/12AU7 would have better current drive.
Follower is the same as schematic except for A50K send control with a 270p bright cap, 50K will help keep impedance lower, Hot of send (not switch of send) normal to return jack switch.
Return the same except output pot a linear with 500pf bright.
Choke in the power supply 15Hy 20ma 1,000 ohm Triad after 15K before 30uf cap, the 47uf caps were 60uf. I'm also suprised there are no isolation transformers in these boxes to eliminate ground loops.
Tonegurus
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Tonegurus »

I just wanted to thank Brandon for sending me a kit and talking me through lots of basic build philosophy. After putting off building it for literally months, I finally broke down and took a crack at it.

I'm a total noob, so it was a real education, plus it probably took me 4x the time to build it as it would a 2nd one. First I loaded the boards from the pics, then went back and traced the circuit from the schemo and researched all the color codes. Whoops, I had a few of those wrong. But - now I can read a schemo and trace a circuit! New skills!

So I fired everything up. Blew 3 fuses. Hmmmm....
Then saw that I had the tube wired incorrectly. My bad, sure enough it was correct on the pics and schemo. I had the pinout wrong.

Fired it up again. No blown fuse this time, but very little sound either. Started checking voltages before I realized that I didn't know what the voltages were supposed to be!

Having spent now more time on this than I'll EVER cop to, I took it to a friend who diagnosed and fixed it in an hour. I had reversed the diodes, which in turn fried the first two caps. Plus I had the 4 wires from the jack and pots to the tube board connected incorrectly at the board.

Now it seems to work OK, although there's still a little sound coming through when I have the standby switch off, so I need to figure that out. Anyhow, thought I'd share my little cherry pop with y'all, and thank Brandon again for giving me the opportunity to get my feet wet on this project.

Mike
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Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Funkalicousgroove »

Nice, glad it worked out for you!
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selloutrr
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by selloutrr »

I"m confussed as to what / which one this actually is?
The original Dumblelator only has two knobs a drive and recovery. while the Dumblelator II has 3 knobs but also operates 2 tubes a single drive and dual recovery (2) FX loops.
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Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Funkalicousgroove »

It's the mono unit with the 3rd knob on the front, Here is the back side of the unit you posted-

the 3rd knob simply replaces the 270K to ground at the return so that you have a "return level" control.
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selloutrr
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by selloutrr »

ok thanks! what transformer was used on the original dumblelator?
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UltraHookedOnPhonix
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by UltraHookedOnPhonix »

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selloutrr
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by selloutrr »

thank you!
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selloutrr
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by selloutrr »

would Sprague 2PS .25mfd 200v work in place of the .22 225P? How much tonal improvement are you gaining from the 2PS series? or is it just a visual improvement?
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torben3000
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by torben3000 »

Hi,
I have got a transformer with sec. 270V. So i can take it without the voltage doubler. Am i right?
And it´s got 20V. How can i get the 6,3V Heater Voltage?
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Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Funkalicousgroove »

I'd rectify the 20V tap, run a pi filter like 3300uf, 2.2k(bigger if you like), 3300uf, and then a 12v regulator, and run your heaters like that (don't use the Center tap).

Or you can use a second 6.3v transformer, Hammond makes them-
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Funkalicousgroove
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Funkalicousgroove »

selloutrr wrote:would Sprague 2PS .25mfd 200v work in place of the .22 225P? How much tonal improvement are you gaining from the 2PS series? or is it just a visual improvement?
it makes no difference, 225p and PS series sound almost identical- FWIW, I've been using NTE Mylar lateley and they sound great as well-
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Structo
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Re: D-lator Tutorial step by step as I do it.

Post by Structo »

I am considering building a Dumbleator soon.

I'm going to use a choke on the one I build.

Also, I can't seem to find that Triad R-2C PT @ 135v anyplace.
I saw one place that wanted $211 for it!

Is there another PT that would work well for this?
Can it be a 115v 1:1 isolation?
With 120vac wall voltage would this push the secondaries high enough?

I notice on a few pictures of the clone D lators that the heater wires appear to be bundled with the other wires going to the tube board.
Wouldn't that add hum to the signal?


I adapted this schematic to show the choke.
Do I have it located in the right spot?

I read just about every thread about the Dumbleator in the forum.
Is this schematic the correct one with the correct values?
Thanks guys!
Tom
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