Anybody try "Manhattan Style" construction?

[tubeswell]

Cool

[gingertube]

Not so much in the tube hobby work but quite often in the day job.
Latest was a high speed LED pulser to test a photomultiplier tube base laser receiver. I needed less than 5 ns rise time and less than 30 ns pulse width.
This "Manhatten" style (although I've never before heard it called that) is ideal for high speed, RF type circuits in particular, but works well for any Q&D R&D,.(Quick and Dirty Reasearch and Development).

For Octal Tube prototyping don't forget the increadibly useful relay sockets like this one:
http://www.digikey.com.au/product-detai ... 7-ND/45046

Cheers,
Ian

[xk49w]

Back in the day we used to call that "dead bug". I've made a lot of brassboard circuits of RF/IF, even high-speed digital stuff that way up to 200-300 MHz. Short leads, good grounding. Solder up a G10 box on top, paint it, done.

[husky]

This is what I use, not cheap but I have made thousands of boards with it.
http://www.mitspcb.com/edoc/fp21t.htm

Also Egnater used to use some sort of prototype board that had larger square pads (maybe .125") and no holes. Seemed very interesting. I've never found it though.

[pdf64]

I've used this method to develop circuits and build amps, as it's so quick and cheap.
Always some bits of board available at uni or work, whereas (in the 80s) I couldn't find a cheap source for suitable eyelets etc.
Use a big piece of board (copper side up) as the base and then chop up another piece into small (eg ~1/4" square) lands that I glue onto the main board, instead of eyelets / turrets.
Use a quick setting epoxy and the bond seems to be very robust, eg stuff made 20 years ago still seems good.
Use the base board copper for the circuit grounding.
A land can be removed by holding the iron on it for about 20 seconds, to loosen off the epoxy.
I've not tried to mount a tube socket on to the lands, but don't see why it should be a problem.