Faceplate for amp
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Faceplate for amp
I have a Metro style amp from Mojo with front and rear faceplates. The faceplates do not have any adhesive. I could simply mount them and have the components hold them in place. They are a bit 'bendy' so I am concerned about the edges. Would love any recommendations on fixing these plates to the chassis?
Best A
Best A
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Re: Faceplate for amp
that's what fender did
PRR wrote: Plotting loadlines is only for the truly desperate, or terminally bored.
Re: Faceplate for amp
Ok so as long as the cab encases the chassis all should be well. The idea of gluing the faceplate does not seem like a good direction.
Thanks
Thanks
Re: Faceplate for amp
If this is a combo, def glue it down to avoid rattles. I buy sheets of 3M adhesive and cut to size.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
Re: Faceplate for amp
Hey, its a head cab, so maybe not an issue?
Ange
Ange
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Re: Faceplate for amp
I use double sided sticky tape hold mine down. It’s something I use at work all the . I drill a lot of chassis for my amps and it comes in handy holding them in place for that also. Bill
Re: Faceplate for amp
If you want the real deal, search for "3M adhesive sheets"
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
Re: Faceplate for amp
Yes I did and had that stuff around a while back. So there is no issue with bleed through on use acrylic faceplates, as in the chemicals in the glue eventually marring the front face?
Re: Faceplate for amp
I've been using the 3M stuff on plastic faceplates (Gravpoly) made for me by IndCom Graphics for ten years with no issues. It's strong stuff--don't use if you ever want to remove your faceplate intact.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
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Re: Faceplate for amp
I just got 18 watt plates from Valvestorm and they also have no adhesive on them. I used a little epoxy to secure the rear panel. The front has enough jacks, pots and switches. The rear has a long run of nothing and it actually lifted from heat. I pulled the foot switch jack and smeared a little epoxy along the void and it’s now secure. I think once you stick any of the panels on with adhesive, you’ll never get them off again without damage.
Re: Faceplate for amp
I use plastic plates from Indcom. I ask for no adhesive with mine, as the hardware holds it in place.
Re: Faceplate for amp
You guys in the US don't know how lucky you being able to easily find genuine 3M stuff (of course it's the real deal) nice plywood, etc.
Honestly, I haven't tried it on faceplates, but using the kind of glue to hold the foam (yes it needs to be removable) on table tennis paddles might be a solution for having a removable faceplate that stays in place.
In France, a fair substitute is this
It is rather likely to hold vibrations and pretty easily peels off the surfaces.
Just use it as you would do with contact cement: let it dry on both surfaces before pressing them in contact.
NB: doesn't 3M makes a removable glue in spray & what about tolex glue?
I don't think so.wpaulvogel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 14, 2021 11:51 pmI think once you stick any of the panels on with adhesive, you’ll never get them off again without damage.
Honestly, I haven't tried it on faceplates, but using the kind of glue to hold the foam (yes it needs to be removable) on table tennis paddles might be a solution for having a removable faceplate that stays in place.
In France, a fair substitute is this
It is rather likely to hold vibrations and pretty easily peels off the surfaces.
Just use it as you would do with contact cement: let it dry on both surfaces before pressing them in contact.
NB: doesn't 3M makes a removable glue in spray & what about tolex glue?
- JMFahey
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- Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
1 others liked this
Re: Faceplate for amp
Personal opinion: IF we are talking a front panel, with many "anchor points", say pots, jacks, maybe push-in switches with a narrow edge around , etc. plus front panel is thickish, say >0.8mm aluminum or >1mm acrylic or polycarbonate, I can trust just them and leave alone.
Now on back panels (and simple front panels, as in DrZ, AC4, etc.) which might have a couple jacks, maybe an IEC connector, a power switch, leaving large sections floating, ate the ends, of course, and worse if panel material is thin, I would discreetly place small stamp sized double sided tape rectangles at the corners.
Even if usually careful, there is always some "oops" moment catching one end against something and once bent it never comes back to normal.
For example, very common in 6 knob 4 jack Plexi panels, or JCM800, seen many old relics with cracked missing panel ends.
Just sayin´
Now on back panels (and simple front panels, as in DrZ, AC4, etc.) which might have a couple jacks, maybe an IEC connector, a power switch, leaving large sections floating, ate the ends, of course, and worse if panel material is thin, I would discreetly place small stamp sized double sided tape rectangles at the corners.
Even if usually careful, there is always some "oops" moment catching one end against something and once bent it never comes back to normal.
For example, very common in 6 knob 4 jack Plexi panels, or JCM800, seen many old relics with cracked missing panel ends.
Just sayin´
Design/Make/Service Musical stuff in Buenos Aires, Argentina, since 1969
- Blind Lemon
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Re: Faceplate for amp
Double stick carpet tape has always worked for me.
BL
BL