Structo wrote:Not sure about that I have painted many alumuinum pedal enclosures over the years using several different types of paints and clear coats.
I just make sure they are clean and degreased, and paint them.
Many people do, Tom. But the adhesion isn't great and at some point, they flake off. If you want it to last, you etch.
Look into: Wash Primer, Etching Pimer for Aluminum.
I used to use Acid based ones on Aluminum panels of cars. Its the same with Aeroplanes ---- they're often seen with a Green or Yellow etch primer base.
The local stores such as hardware and auto parts stores sell self-etching primer is that what I should use for aluminum. Not sure as to the type of paint that is such as epoxy?
If it says for use over an Aluminum substate on the tin, then it'll be fine. There are many different manufacturers for this type of stuff
You'll also find this product in Marine supply shops - Boat supples. And take note of any Health & Safety mention. Some of this, isn't pleasant --- for a larger pieces I'd have it done professionally. There's also Powder coating - and there's an Etch for that, too.
Had a inter-wed blackout last night. Here's some pictures of the dress.
If you keep a few rules in mind you can go at it with no plan and end with
interesting results. I try not to use the chassis as a ground plain for the
circuit, so I have to incorporate a ground bus. I used Jensen oil & foil caps
in the signal path and a diode bias for the pre, and its two 6l6 cathode
biased like an old silver tone, using the heaters of two 12ax7 in series.
It seats two, or one with beer, butts, ash tray, lighter, picks and capo, etc.
There are all kinds of approaches to dress, depending on the manufacturer,
point to point, component board, terminal strips, you can mix it up and have fun.
I like the Idea of making a standard chassis, and for the pre, fab you own
point to point pcb, with 9 pin tube socket and shield attached and thru the chassis, farm out the chassis.
That big cap has been floating around the bench for a very long time.
I don't know, .... I noticed in a lot of older stuff, the filter caps were big,
and of a critically small value. I know that the manufacturing of components
has gotten qualitatively better, smaller size..... but there are still older
equivalents that are cool to check out in a project, bath tub caps, and those
phenolic mica thingy's.
The amp presents nice enough, very colorful break up, my wife said it was
darker than usual. I'll pull one of the design choices I went with.
The resistors in the grid circuit are right on the pin of tube socket where
their supposed to be, I might have under estimated the miller effect.
Logo, yes its spray painted masonite, it gives a "your name here" liberty,
with hand tools, and its cheap. The fabrication of this project was 4 days.
Figuring out a manufacturing process at home is a truly an American tradition.
Most of the practical references on radio building are from the Depression
and post war periods. Hopefully this one wont last more than 10 years.
I've been surprised, but this kind of product presentation seems to be well
liked. A large number of people I know don't trust a more finished look.
If its looks too good it might be from China. Attitudes are starting to swing around.
Its a shocked look, when people realize you "manufactured" it right down the road. A hopeful thing.
Its loud enough, between drums, bass and keyboard, it was fine.
cathode bias with 6l6 was adequate, very clean, sweet tone, the other amp
in the space was a blues jr, ratty fender tone, the fender was harsh,
I was surprised at the comparison, the jensen caps are so nice.
The bias scheme works, sovtek tubes, 12ax7 heaters making the bias.
No bad solder joins, one of the tone pots needs to be swapped out, the taper
is no good at one extreme.
Here a quick scheme, simple. It's nice to hear your design choices.
It has a nice tone, Les Paul, Hal Leonard, a full clean tone, cap choice really counts.
Jupiter caps has a new upgrade and Mundorf has an affordable silver cap.
A different power side, like KT88's or KT90's might be huge, it's a clean enough
tone, maybe even a triode based power side would work, usually the detail
is too much for a guitar amp.
COol amp Andy, thanks for sharing the build progress, I always enjoy that.
Oh, by the way, that finish pattern on the chassis is called "jeweled", or "jeweling".... trivia for the day. Done with brushes, also with pads and abrasive compounds for even finer detail. Sometimes it was done with wooden dowels as well, with pumice or some other abrasive.
