Looks like you used those vintage transistors Ge Darlingtons - were they hard to find or work with?
I have been making pedals myself lately but just spent two full days on a dual FET design with a power pump that I never got off the ground - very frustrating.
I didn;t do the trace (of course), I just filled in the parts. The hardest part is getting it boxed up. Like they say, the difference between making pedals and getting laid is all the fun happens before you get in the box.
Russian Ge's are plentiful and easy to get on ebay, getting the gain you may want is the issue. All the ones i have are ~30 so used the Darlington Rangemaster circuit. Breadboarding would seem to indicate that they would work fine in the standard circuit even at that low gain, will play with that somemore down the road.
dave
I have built a few Klon Klones and never really thought I was getting it right. while they sounded fine, they didn't make me go Whoa (to sterile to my ears)... That was until I read recently that the original schem Had a couple of resistors switched. Also, a couple of other resistor's and a cap change between different versions of the original were noted. The big difference I found was switching to The Russian D9E germanium Diodes with a mid 30 Fv.. I socketed all the values that were changed and switched back and forth and did find I liked the changes.. Fattened and warm things up and gave better range to the controls...
The best booster/drive pedal, I built to the moment of over 30 different drives is Red Rooster ( A Rangemaster clone with variable frequency cut), using old russian military germanium transistors with hfe around 90. You have to measure those s***rs to find the best from the bunch.
I've built two Klones and never managed to bond with them. Might be missing something, but doesn't work for me.
Niki
Anyone ever struggle with the LED - CLR relationship? I could never get an LED with a following CLR (connected to cathode) to light up.
Finally, I got in an argument about with someone online, and tested it six times on my breadboard and was convinced I was right, that it couldn't be done. Only after I had posted in no uncertain terms that I was right did I turn around and look at my breadboard and see it wired up exactly the way I said it would never work, and the LED was lit up.
I took a stand, and was completely wrong, and now I gotta live it down.
EFF ME!!! Thank you Lord for the lesson in humility, but didja have to.....
Tony I really enjoy the Klon you fixed for me it works very well but makes me wonder how much better one of your Klon's would be might have to talk price
Playonit - I read the threads, but I would really appreciate it if you could get a little more specific and post the changes here. (with the specific R numbers, possibly).
My KlonE comes from a guy who told me he de-gooped his own Klon back in the early 90s.
However, while I have not compared them side by side (yet) his schematic as included with PCB appears to be very much like the one on that thread in terms of layout (I have not compared values). To be clear - the one on that thread does NOT have the recommended changes on it, as I read the posts. Right?
For that matter, I think I have even heard the original used a different IC, possibly a 4558, but I don;t want to start straw men details - that is just something I heard. The TL072 is not really known as a "nice" sounding chip, where the 4558 was used in the tube screamer and many many other ODs.
Also - I apologize for the cryptic post about the LED. The controversy came from that fact that you can put a "current limiting resistor" on either the anode or cathode side of an LED (which really makes no sense, but it works). I am a noob, and I had been told it had to be the anode, and I tested it and also found the same thing, (I THOUGHT) - but the minute I took a stand and insisted I was right, I was proven wrong, to myself. I looked at my own breadboard and the LED was lit up, with the CLR on the cathode.
Essentially, I had proven myself wrong when testing, but my eyes didn't see what I wasn't seeing, which is something a lot of builders experience, but we learn the hard way.
I don't know if you noticed, but the thread from another board that you cited for certain changes to the KlonE schematic (which I went and read) has now been taken down! Is it possible someone did not want those changes "out" in the public domain?
I had asked you to re-document the changes here instead of just giving us the link, mostly just so it would be easy to find them all - and now that the link is gone I really want to know what they were once again.
A couple of resistor values changes, 1 cap, and different diodes. I am hoping maybe you can see this and find some notes of your own to tell us once again what those changes were. I was going to go to the thread today and document them myself, but now that is impossible.
I hope you see this and that it is not too much trouble. If it doesn't work out, thanks for trying anyway.
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