pix and description of my relay board...

[Tonegeek]

OK- finally posting my relay pix for interested parties. I admit, this is a lot of work, but I wanted to try it. I just could not bring myself to make a printed circuit for the relays, so I decided to adapt them to the G-10 eyelet board. You have to drill 8 1/16" holes for each relay + the 8 eyelets. I soldered extra wire on to each pin, and pushed each one through the prepared board. Halfway through, I injected 3M epoxy under the relay and then seated them down. I then soldered the extended wiring to the eyelets and covered the mounting holes with more epoxy. It is bulletproof now.

I got the relays from Mouser (part# 551-ec2-12nj). They are NEC Miniature Low Signal DPDT 12V SEALED (1028 ohm, 9v min switching voltage). The reason I like these is that the coil resistance is such that you can run an LED in series with the coil with no limiting resistor for the status indicator. They are small too, which helps me since I am doing a ODS crammed into a small box Marshall chassis. I have tested these and they work, but the project is not totally done, so there is still the real world test, but I expect they will perform well. They are cheap too, ($2.67). I built the board with a spare in case one fails, or for any mods I may think of later.

[mhuss]

A lot of work, but cute!

--mark h

[tictac]

Do you have a drawing of how you're going to wire it up?

[Zippy]

I really like the idea but may try to implement it with sockets to the board so replacement of a failed relay is easier. Nice!

[Tonegeek]

Do you have a drawing of how you're going to wire it up?

oops, forgot I wasn't on the Dumble forum! Some of the following explanation refers to Dumble but could be generalized to any build.

I have a layout showing the labelled pinouts and connections for the OD and Pre-amp boost which are the only things I am currently switching with the relays, but it is integrated with the rest of the layout. It is pretty basic and I have seen similar schematics in the files section. And really it will only mean something if you are doing a clean master volume. One difference though is that some of the schematics show using a positive voltage from the footswitch or onboard switches to trigger the relays. Mine is the opposite. I ran +12V from the relay PS to the + terminal on the coil of each relay. From there I go from the - terminal of each relay to the switches. The other end of the switch is to ground (actually to the 12v return). The reason I did this is there is less chance of a short killing all the relay functions or blowing a fuse if you are using a common ground (if the relay supply does not share a ground with the other devices, then this is less of an issue, but some people ground there relay supply) As long as the wire from the PS to the + terminal does not short, any other shorts would likely only trigger one relay, and likely not take them all down. I do have current limiting on the supply, but wiring to minimize the effects of shorts is a little more insurance on a gig.

When I am done with the project (couple of weeks maybe) I will post my schematics, and layout files.

[tictac]

Yes I like to wire my relays that way too, I'd like to see how you did yours when you get done,

Thanks,

TT